Jump to content
AVIC411.com

Progress

Members
  • Content Count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Progress

  • Rank
    Member
  1. Thanks. Apparently that label must have been removed because I couldn't locate it. Do you know if it is universally blue? There is a blue/? wire coming out of the unit and then blue going into the factory harness. I suppose I'll use that. Also, do I use a quick tap/vampire clip and splice into the remote wire or do I cut the remote wire and connect it to my remote wire. I guess what I'm getting at is does the remote wire already connected need to continue going where it's going into he factory harness? Or should this wire be dangling as it is?
  2. I have a professionally installed X930BT with bypass (FWIW). I am installing wiring for a subwoofer that I plan on putting in my trunk. I've wired power to the battery, ground will be in the trunk, I've wired RCA to the sub preamps on the back of the unit. I know (or at least I thought) I had to connect the blue remote wire with my wiring kit to the remote wire at the back of the unit but I'm not sure which wire I'm supposed to be splicing to. I'm told there is a blue/white wire to connect to but I'm having trouble locating it. Is it one of the wires that's already connected to the factory
  3. I have a Droid Razr and when I play Pandora through the Bluetooth the sound is fine save the ticking status sound that I get bouncing from side to side. It comes every couple of seconds and is not incredibly loud but loud enough to disincline me to use the feature. It sounds like a clicking/ticking sound. Edit second part.
  4. Can someone tell me where I can find this? It's the power connector that goes into the XM unit of my D2. It's a three pin connector with two holes (power and ground).One of the wires came out so I put it in and taped the wires together as a stopgap measure. Every now and then over bumps and/or turning the XM shuts off and I think it's one of the wires coming loose out of this. Where can I get a new one of these or how can I fix this problem?
  5. A month or so after I had my unit installed I noticed that my XM tuner would shut off if I went over bumps. I looked behind the dash and found that one of the power wires doesn't have a clip on the end. Rather, it's just bare wire folded and shoved into the plastic piece which is inserted in the XM tuner. So when I go over bumps, it's contact is occasionally lost, thus shutting off the tuner. What can I get to put on this wire so that I can properly secure it to the plastic piece which is inserted into the tuner?
  6. That is exactly what I have on my D2. The shop installed it.
  7. Just an update for everyone and especially for Catchme. My car has two harnesses. One is the main one with everything. The other is simply A/V and the only hookup I have in that harness is for my iPod. Anyway, I had moved the spare wire to the open whole and spliced it to the parking brake line which was grounded. This did not work. So, instead, I cut the wire before the splice and connected it to a ground plug and actually grounded it to the car myself directly bolted to a piece of metal. This finally fixed my problem and the bypass works now.
  8. Okay, I took a look at the back of the unit. The second connector (the A/V connector) is smaller and white. The wires are much closer together and taped up. The only two open plugs are on the left side (looking from the POV of the wires) second from the left and they are both open (top and bottom). The original location of the mute wire (labeled "cellular mute") comes from the main harness. The hole on the right side of the harness that I plugged the spare wire into and grounded to the parking brake wire is in the main harness. I did this per the first picture. Is that first picture incor
  9. Hey, man. Thanks again. I haven't responded in a while because I went on a trip to go white water rafting. Got knocked out of the boat. Almost died. Good times. Anyway, that first picture is what screwed me then. It says specifically to put the wire there and ground, so that is what I did. Which harness do I plug the mute wire into? Will I know? I'm guessing it's white and not black, right? Will it be the only one with one missing plug?
  10. That picture shows it as connector one. Thank you for your help, BTW.
  11. That first picture that I posted with the diagram that someone else posted in a how-to, is where I plugged it in. It made sold contact and "clicked" in there and won't come out with ease. The splice is directly into the parking brake line which I said in the post above goes somewhere I don't know. If it's to ground then I don't know where ground is. I feel like the shop made things more complicated than they had to be and now I don't know what to do.
  12. In a normal bypass, am I correct in saying that this parking brake wire would just ground to the ground wire along with the mute wire in the open hole. I mean I really don't know what I should do now. The "mute" wire is now in the new hole and spliced to the parking brake. I have no idea which is the ground wire, nor do I know where it goes.
  13. Okay, I pulled a spare "mute" wire from another pioneer harness that I had. I cut the end off and spliced it to the parking brake wire and plugged the other end into the open hole but that did not fix it. At a crawl the car did not detect movement but after I hate about 5-10 MPH, the options became unavailable again. I'm at a loss now.
×
×
  • Create New...