illuxion

nope, I actually read the forums and heeded the advice that EVERY SINGLE modder had. Backup entire thing first, read, read a bit more, understand what I was getting in to, then modded my device.

It's a shame to see people that don't think, drive one of the few modders we have away. Modding is not for the average "yo yo lookit ma navi" moron. You have to have some common sense, and be able to follow instructions fairly well. I'm somewhat of a geek having been a member of the homebrew club in the early 80s, but I still took several days of reading this forum, making sure I understood the architecture of the Avic, and generally having a clue how modding these units went, before I ever attempted to mod it. I can feel CMH's pain with having people want to do something but in the end ha

I've looked at this and it's not as easy as the whims people have. First off you need an ODB to USB interpreter, that's pretty easy there a few on the market. Next you need to make the driver to read/write ODB signals. Now the fun really begins because ODBII isn't all the same, everyone has their own version and extra command set. Are you ready to license all of these? The final problem is the ODBII polling rate which is pretty abysmal. 2 variable polling isn't bad, 3 starts to get sluggish, and anything over 3 gets really pokey. It's about 50-100ms a poll, so you figure how much info y

I had an 8120 in my WRX before I got the accord, overall it was ok, but if you consider price to performance it just wasn't there. The kenwood radio tuner sucked dog balls, having to continuously pay for navtraffic sucked($120 and I'll never pay for traffic updates again with MSN), overall the screen was pretty blah(although I did like that you can adjust the color settings, not just brightness), dual zone was nice, but I only plan on single screen in the accord, the bluetooth stack was terrible regardless of what phone you use(the F90 doesn't particularly like my HTC phones though), I love i

SD card - takes a long time to start playing when you turn the unit on, doesn't resume in the middle of the track when you turn it on, can make nav stutter a bit when it's playing. no VR or album art. Flash drive - takes a little while to start playing , don't remember if it resumes correctly or not. No VR or album art. Hard drive - takes a while to start playing , don't remember if it resumes correctly or not. No VR or album art. Ipod, fastest of the external devices to start playing, resumes mid track when you turn the unit on, voice recognition, displays album art, nice UI.

Even NavNGo does not quite release any kind of documentation for skin scripting. It is all by trial and error... For buttons, you could add a night version of the bitmap to the night subfolder (of either Common or 800_480 depending on where you fetch the day version from)... I appreciate it thanks Tried one button real quick before I went to work and it worked great. I wasn't sure if people had started collecting API calls they find and putting them in a central place, something similar to what addon coders have done for World of Warcraft. Thanks again.

take your 1.6G worth of data and do the reverse of what you did to back it up, let it overwrite all files. Themes and such will still be there, but the important bits will be overwritten.

Is there a known variable for night mode? I've been digging through some of the mods, and the buttons that look killer during the day are bright and obtrusive at night. Correct me if I'm mistaken, but I'm contemplating adding similar buttons that are visible regularly on the same layer and location as the buttons already are, then using the visiblemodel based on what mode it's in, night or day. The other big question that I can't seem to find, has anythong published known hooks, methods, and vars, or is it a play it by ear?

no, no, and no. Searching is your friend. For the search inept: No network as there is no DUN stack on the avic. Could it be hacked? Maybe. has it been hacked? No. Is it worth the hassle? Probably not. MSN does traffic overlay just fine. Activesync? there is no DUN stack on the avic. Could it be hacked? Maybe. has it been hacked? No. Is it worth the hassle? Probably not. Speed sensitive volume. Works with nav, doesn't work with Audio sources. Could it be hacked? Maybe. has it been hacked? No. Is it worth the hassle? Probably not.

Even with a class 6, the avic doesn't read anywhere near that fast, so speed is not that important. I got a cheapy kingston 16GB class 4 for $20 and it works great, as does my 32GB OCZ thumb drive which was $40. As was said, with the F series the video processing is pretty sad. Either use movies with relatively low bandwidth on a flash drive/SD or put it on a DiVX encoded movies on a data dvd. I assume the DVD player uses a separate video subsystem as movies with the same bitrate play flawlessly through the DVD, but not so good even on my thumb drive(which is one of the faster ones o

First thread at the top of this section viewtopic.php?f=34&t=18977 Second post

There were a few key features for me. 3d buildings (depending on your area, these may be sparse, but here in San Jose there are quite a few) Tilt angle - The default tilt max won't let you see the horizon, now I can see the mountains in the distance(and they are correct) Redlight and speed cams - There are a few around here, and this help me remember to not be a jackass. Easy way to mute voice guidance - On long trips the nav can be a bit chatty, and if there's 100 miles to continue on the highway, I get annoyed with it telling me to continue straight. It adds tons of themes. And the

Don't you have it tapped into your dimmer wire? I use 10 with no lights on, 0 with lights on, works wonders. As far as the OP's question, There's one great mod, the Cmh928 mod, you don't need any others, it's so easy a caveman can do it(although a caveman would skip backing up his system first, so make sure you backup)

The alpine and JL are nice, it's amazing how small the Alpine PDX series is, mine is mounted under the rear deck and powering the whole system. The JBL is ok, not that great, you're paying for the clear face for the most part with that one. Make sure the speakers you pick match the impedance specs for the amp for best power. Also try stick with class D for sub amps if you can, they are more efficient and will put less of a strain on your electrical system, but overall it's not super important. Here's a few more to look at. These are 1 channel http://www.woofersetc.com/p4424/D

Thank you very much , this information was very helpful. As for the last post, I wanted to go with MTX just because they seem to have a great reputation and are very tough. Also, good quality. Those Kenwoods sell for.... 60$ lol... I don't know what kind of quality they can be. The MTX subs are 130$ish each. Personally, MTX are not that great, they are top end of the crap end of drivers. If your ears know no better I'm sure you'll be content with them, but they really do suck especially if you're actually going to pay the $170 each for them. For clean, super efficient bass IDQ12s