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FeloniusMonkey

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Everything posted by FeloniusMonkey

  1. Did anything ever become of this experiment? I still have a 6000NEX (F960BT), and am curious if it's worth trying to load another device's firmware.
  2. I'm having a great deal of difficulty removing the map warning screen. I keep getting read-only filesystem warnings. What I've noticed is that the content of build.prop on /system actually becomes 0 in size immediately after the operation, even though it says it's read-only. What's going on here? I pretty much piggybacked off the iGo lib fix that was just recently released in this thread. I assume that one works fine. Below is the content of my Copy_Script.sh. If anyone could explain what I'm doing wrong, I'd really appreciate it. #!/system/bin/sh ls -al /system >/mnt/udi
  3. So what option(s) in the BSP do you set to convince the unit to boot from the external SD card (the slot on the front)?
  4. If I have two 6000NEX's, and I purchase an item via the AVICSYNC store, can I sync it with both units? In other words, how does the AVICSYNC store see the customer-- by the individual unit, or by the Android device used in tandem? My guess is the former, since I didn't have to create an account to use it (at least, I haven't bought anything non-free yet). Just a random note, completely unrelated-in-any-way-to-the-AVICSYNC-question-above, the "Development" thread mentions that you can use the same iGo device ID file for multiple devices, simultaneously.
  5. I realized last night that the update process actually changes the content on the USB stick/card in some way. This is of particular concern to those updating multiple units. In the event you are updating multiple units, you will need to restart the process from scratch for each unit. I had quite a scare when I got into what I'll call "an update auto-recovery loop" on my second vehicle. After about an hour, I decided to reformat and recopy the firmware update to my USB stick. Thankfully, it worked.
  6. Simple question that someone can hopefully add to the FAQ: I have a 6000NEX, which is one of the models with a microSD slot on the face. Given the process(es) we have at present, would it be possible to be able to run any mods without having to open the unit to access the internal SD? I saw some comments about being able to run your own ROM from an external card. If not, are there any notable precautions (delicate ribbon cables, etc) to take, or helpful hints to follow when opening the unit; or is it just as intuitive as opening any other device? Thanks. Oh, one other conc
  7. Well that kinda blows. Thanks for the info though, guys.
  8. I've seen the posts about losing "bluetooth audio" when updating from x000 to x100. Does this include losing use of bluetooth speakerphone functions, or just losing functions like bluetooth streaming audio/music (which I never use anyway)?
  9. I just had this happen for the first time this morning. Install was 3 days ago. GPS antenna is in an unused center speaker slot under the center dash. It is relatively far from electrical interference. Turning off/on the car fixed the issue. Also, yesterday morning, the unit suddenly "forgot" the GPS menu settings I had previously configured... settings like "don't warn me when speeding." I can't help but think these two incidents are somewhat related. Anyone experience this too? Incidentally, after pushing the first "OK" warning screen (immediately after starting the car), the w
  10. There is a method for "tricking" the firmware upgrade process, so you can downgrade. Simply open the PEH403B_V08.05_1T.HAT file in a HEX editor (XVI32 is free and easy to use), and change the version number, which spans the decimal addresses 136-140. In this case, you'll be changing "08.05" to "08.30". But that's not all. Since you're dealing with a different model than the firmware dictates, we'll need to break down some additional differences between the AR2 and AR3 files... In the PEH403B_V08.05_1T.HAT file, you'll see the string "NX209" at addresses 2-5 (very beginning of the fi
  11. What about OEM cameras? I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue which came with its backup camera already installed. I'm wondering if it already connects via an RCA plug. I'm hoping the worst case scenario is that I'll have to sever the old plug, and replace it with an RCA plug for the Pioneer.
  12. I need to revive an old thread here, because I just found yet another issue with the iPod connection. First, it was the speaker pin, as I described earlier in this thread. I fixed that. Then the stock CD-IU230V iPod cable started to go bad. I bought the AmazonBasics iPod composite cable, which has proven to be a suitable and well-built replacement for it. Now, the right channel (coincidentally) is cutting out once again. This time, it's the RCA harness (part CDP1091 on Pioneer's parts site). I discovered this after sliding out my head unit, and wiggling the harness wires in different d
  13. I had this happen to me yesterday, and I was flipping out for the same reason. If you hooked your iPod up to the computer just prior to this happening, you should reconnect it to the computer, and PROPERLY EJECT it. This fixed my problem.
  14. Fixed the problem on mine today. Here are the details: http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=26621&p=182924#p182924
  15. Ok, I determined what the problem is on my AVIC-F90BT, and fixed it as well. The RIGHT AUDIO IN pin/wire of the white MALE audio harness plug was not secure in the plug. In fact, the pin itself seemed to be damaged. It wouldn't "snap" into place like the other pins. I secured it as best I could with electrical tape, and things seem to be holding up well now. I was able to tell this was this issue by jiggling the various parts of the connection. The RCA connectors themselves were all okay. But when I got to the harness connection, I realized something was wrong. I wasn't sure if it w
  16. I appreciate the suggestion. I just hate the thought of buying into the whole Apple proprietary thing for $50. So before I do that, I'm gonna play around with some of the typical diagnostic procedures that the others have done: [*:3syf6l0p]Jiggle the RCA harness plug where it enters the AVIC, while using the iPod [*:3syf6l0p]Jiggle the RCA connection between the RCA-F and iPod RCA-M tips, while using the iPod [*:3syf6l0p]Try several other cables and devices to possibly narrow the source of the problem [*:3syf6l0p]Exercise my active warranty, and have Pioneer replace whatever seems to be
  17. Thanks for reporting back. Sucks that Pioneer can't speculate (TO US) any better why this keeps happening. A problem this common can't possibly have 2 equally common sources.
  18. Respectfully, I intend to test the female RCA jacks with some other devices and male RCA cables before I operate on them. I have at least 5 other cables, and 4 or 5 other devices I can test. If they all exhibit the same result (bad right channel), then I will have to operate. Or I might just call Pioneer support to replace the bad A/V harness bundle. No need to drop $50 on the Apple cable. BTW, anyone have any idea HOW the F-Series is able to display Video output from a recent iPod, without having an authentication chip? This is most perplexing.
  19. Thanks for your reply. I think you may have posted this same solution in another thread that I read. I assume from your trials with other cables, that your problem lie in the FEMALE A/V INPUT RCA connectors, rather than in the Pioneer iPod cable. Do you think it would have been equally effective for you to replace the female A/V INPUT RCA connectors with better ones, as opposed to severing and splicing to those wires directly? Just curious, because if I have the same issue (which I probably do), I would prefer this route.
  20. I just bought a 120GB iPod Classic (late 2008 "2G"). Hooked it up to my AVIC-F90BT, and I am now experiencing the same audio issues that I've seen many posts about, regarding the Pioneer cable. My right channel is dull, quiet, and I hear a bit of interference. I have played with the cable, swapped the channels, checked all connections, and the problem is most likely with the cable. I saw, in a related post, that this cable (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21221) seems to be a valid replacement, with a build-in mini-USB jack to complete the full connection needed. I go on Amaz
  21. Yes, I have this problem too. The worst part is that even if I change the audio via the Pre (to use the Pre's earpiece instead of the Pioneer BT) before I turn off the car, the call is STILL disconnected once I turn the car off. The only way to prevent this is to tell the person on the phone to hang on while you run and place the phone out of BT range, and THEN turn the car off... so the car can't send the hang-up signal to the phone. And now a question for YOU, since you have a Pre too: Were you able to directly transfer your contacts from your Pre to your Pioneer? I can initiate the
  22. Seriously, there are too many people with video lag issues for this thread to just DIE like this. So what do we know so far: This is a EU-only update, and the version number is 3.002, which is technically prior to 3.0101, which is the latest. Can we assume that 3.0101 includes the 3.002 stuff? If so, can anyone with 3.0101 confirm that the video lag is gone? I'm particularly interested because I'm running DiVX files off my USB drive. Please share if you have info. Thanks.
  23. Thanks OP... what a time-saver! I added additional functionality to select your Contacts folder (in case you have several as I do). I also added a confirmation to ContactsToSQDB, asking if it should overwrite the contacts.sql file with a new one. If no, it will just skip the call to ContactsToSQL. export-phonebook.cls.txt
  24. Thank you, but please stop calling me "hardware".
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