RonS

I notice that sometimes I am behind the plotted arrow, and sometimes I am in front of it. Not sure if it is a directional thing, meaning a constant error in one direction/quadrant. In that case, for example, I would always be lagging the plot when headed East, and always be trailing the plot when headed West. This reminds me of the old days before they turned off Selective Availability (SA). For you young'uns: SA was a technique to reduce the accuracy of unaugmented, single-receiver GPS measurements. This was accomplished by altering (or "dithering") the GPS satellite clock signals

Yeah, I hope you haven't already pulled the trigger on all those cables, adapters, and missing parts. I thought it was odd when, in another thread, you said the seller was replacing it with a Z120-BT, which is exactly the same unit. All that it takes is a software update, which can be had for $150 (or free). So why replace the HU if it was working?

You didn't say which inputs have the hiss. BT stereo OK? Sounds like it is only the radio. Is it both AM and FM? Did you install HD radio? Is so, does that hiss? I admittedly hardly ever listen to AM and rarely FM, mostly BT stereo and ipod. So I can't say if my AVIC has any hiss, or if it is more than I would expect. I do remember having to adjust the EQ for BT audio for streaming talk shows, but that was to reduce the bass. You might be able to filter it out with a custom EQ setting on those few inputs, escpecially AM, which is noisier by nature. In fact, that might be all it is. The

He'd probably have better results with the directions in the Z1 forum

Yeah, that puzzled me too. The only thing I could find that he might be referring to was to configure Day/Night into the Quick Access menu (see the manual p.160 for Quick Access menu options), which appears on the Nav map. Then it is two presses to toggle between Day and Automatic. The only problem with this is that you must be on the NAV screen. So one more press (Mode) is required. Oh, and add an "OK" press if you hadn't taken the pledge when you 1st started-up. I couldn't see any way to add Day/Night to the main Shortcuts menu. If there is another way, please elaborate.

Or simpler yet, use a SPDT switch. Only costs a little more than the usual SPST. On the DT side, one is ACC+, the other comes from the back-up light.

Just to clarify, v1.001 was downloadable a patch by Pioneer to the original software. I don't remember which minor issues it fixed. Seems like most people didn't bother to install it at the time. CNSD-110FM is the part number for the upgrade to Z120 - that is v2.000. It comes in two SD cards. It also includes 2 Parrot BT updates, v3.10 on SD 1, and v3.11 on SD 2. Later, Pioneer released a downloadable patch to v2.000 called 2.003. It fixed some iPod issues. If you buy CNSD-110FM (usually $150-200 + s/h), forget about v1.001. Install v2.000, BT 3.10, then BT 3.11. Then download and in

Do you really think the reason for the by-pass is to watch movies while you're driving?

You can buy the required cables from Pioneer. Gee, I wonder why a person would be selling a HU on ebay without bothering to also include the cables? Probably because they couldn't hang around long with the alarm going off. Well, I hope you got a great deal, cause it's unlikely you will find someone selling them. These are specific to this unit. You can order replacements from Pioneer, but it will be expensive. You will also need the GPS antenna and power cord. I'd guess it's about $150-$200 for everthing you shoud of received from a legit seller. I looked into just buying a spare power c

No, the built-in Pandora interface only works with an iPhone/iPod touch. It requires a custom Pioneer app to be installed on the phone. I comes with a fairly long USB dongle. One end plugs into the back of the HU, the other has a female USB jack. It also has a female 1/8" mini-jack for A/V. Your Pioneer iPod adapter (optional) plugs into both of these. It comes with a mic, try it before you buy one. Mine works as good as any other non-noise cancelling mic. Some people have tried 3rd party mics with varying results. Not sure what A/V harness you want. It comes with a dongle with all

No, just follow the Pioneer instructions.

Since it seems it has never been installed, and it isn't bricked, you are probably as safe as anyone. A gadget this complex can have other issues, such as audio quality, reliability, noise, sensitivity/signal loss. There are other problems besides DOA that these things get returned for. If you look thru the Troubleshot section, you will find lots of issues that required replacement. BTW, just because the cables look good doesn't mean it wasn't installed. The ends can be trimmed, or the harnesses can be replaced with new. But if everything looked "factory fresh", chances are good it wasn't

Yes, I'd carefully bench-check it before going through all the trouble of installing it. I even did with my new out-of-the-box unit. But in my case it was going to be over a month before I got my new car, and I didn't want to get out of the RMA/exchange time window. Rather than making a cig-lighter adapter, I just used a car battery at my workbench (I happened to have one sitting there). BE VERY CAREFUL - a short could fry it, or worse yet - cause an explosion from battery gases. Just tying the red/yellow together as [+] and grounding the black to [-] is enough to get the unit to boot. S

I have both User Manuals, and it hasn't changed.

Didn't look hard enough Z120-BT manual, pg 167. I haven't tried it, but it's in there. Same way as with the Z110. Operating the picture adjustment CAUTION For safety reasons, you cannot use some of these navigation functions while your vehicle is in motion. To enable these functions, you must stop in a safe place and apply the parking brake. Refer to “Important Information for the user†(a separate manual). You can adjust the picture for each source and rear view camera. 1. Press and hold the MODE button. Press and hold to display the “Picture Adjustment†screen.

OK, since you are working with EuroMotorSpeed, you will probably get install instructions with the kit. They are sort of generic instructions - not Pioneer specific, but they will give locations on where/how to hook-up these sensors. Call or ask Loi, he will e-mail you the installation instructions. BTW, I just checked his e-bay store and I didn't see any kits for the 996. And his web-site EuroMotorSpeed.com seems hosed. I found that the Z120 amp was more than enough to drive my 4 stock speakers. You may too. 50Wx4ch isn't mind-blowing, but we're talking about a pretty small space. The so

First, brave soul, many P owners would rather overpay a specialty house to do this. Good for you!!! I have a 2010 987 Cayman that I installed a Z110-BT in a few weeks after taking possession. But I had help from an experienced P car owner& owner of EuroMotorSpeed.com. He manufactures and sells conversion kits. Next some questions: 1. What year? 2. What are you replacing? CR220? CDR23?, probably not PCMx. 3. What is the stock speaker config? Any existing amp? How many speakers? 4. Where did you get the 2din bezel and harness adapter (you aren't planning on splicing, are you?) I

Sounds to me like the instructions weren't followed precisely or, more likely, there was a problem reading the SD. Back to the OP's problem: You didn't say whether you installed the parking-brake by-pass. If not, you should set the P-B before booting. As soon as it displays the splash screen, start hitting the eject button. I don't think the unit will allow the eject to open unless P-B is set. Careful, the eject button is on the motorized screen, so don't hold it too hard. Alternatively, it might be possible to boot into "Test Mode" before the above problem kicks-in (that is, before t

Might be better to buy an un-updated Z110-BT, because if it already has v2.0, or a higher version number, you may not be able to install the F20BT update with the AU maps. As far as hardware differences, don't think so, but I have no specific knowledge on this. There is a difference on the FM receiver between US and EU, but I think it is software controlled. It is the sepatation between FM stations (like 99.7, 99.9. 100.1...etc) In the US the FM band starts at 88.1 Mhz and there is a 200kHz separation. So all our frequencies end in an odd number after the decimal. I think in EU and maybe

There is no connection between the parking-brake bypass and BT, at least if done correctly. And even then, it would work with the parking brake set. So if you can play video on the HU, it sounds like the bypass is OK. To be clear, are you saying that if you press HOME/SETTINGS, the "Bluetooth Settings" soft button is grayed-out? I have only seen this on a few occasions where I had just booted the HU and the BT hadn't initialized yet. I just waited a little longer and tried again. Have you ever been able to get into the BT Settings menu?

Glad you got it working again. Was your friend's ipod BT paired? It should work fine. My point was that once the BT device is connected and if the Stereo Audio profile is enabled, the phone is not using the A/V out jack for audio. I don't have an iPhone, so I don't know if there is an option on which BT profiles you want to be active for each pairing. I have an HTC HD2 / WM6.5 phone, and the BT setting has about a half dozen BT options, most notably "Hands-Free", "Stereo Audio". The others don't really matter much for normal useage. As far as your iPhone working previously, it

I'm thinkin you only want the Hands-Free BT profile set-up on your phone pairing, and not the stereo audio. You want the phone to use the usb/iPod interface for both stereo audio and video.

Sounds like what you want is an inverter. This converts 12V DC to 110V AC. Small ones are $25-$50. I don't know how many watts a PS2 needs. Probably 250-400w. Check before you buy an inverter. If you get one too low, it will not work reliably. Too high and you might drain your battery. These inverters. especially larger wattage ones, can really drain a battery. No problem when the engine is running, but make sure it is switched off with the ignition. Most just plug into a 12V outlet. Some can also be hard-wired. If you hardwire into a switched circuit (instead of direcly to the battery), m

Actually, the manual (Z110 - pg 158, Z120 - pg 167) says you can adjust the brightness, contrast, color, AND Dimmer. "The adjustments of Dimmer is stored separately when your vehicle’s headlights are off (daytime) and when your vehicle’s headlights are on (nighttime). Dimmer is switched automatically only when the value of nighttime is lower than the value of daytime." To get into the Picture Adjustment mode, "Press and hold the MODE button. Press and hold to display the “Picture Adjustment” screen." Haven't tried this, but it appears that it allows you to customize the brightness

Sounds like a loose connection to either your ACC wire or the constant +12V. Or might even be a ground problem. Intermittent wiring problems are a b@#%!* to fix.