23V

Well, at least Pioneer acknowledges that there are problems and confirms that they are working on a solution. That's good news, I suppose, although the lack of a stated time frame for resolution of the problems makes me wonder if the patches are going to take longer to be available than we all had hoped.

Wow, that is CRAZY, man. Sorry about the fee to switch tuners. For those of us commoners with month-to-month accounts, they are more than happy to switch tuners. I guess they are afraid we'll cancel service if they make it too hard to switch radios. In your case, they already have your money, so I guess they feel free to $crew you if you ask them to do something for you.

It looks like you guys are using different trim kits. The one the cranbers used looks pretty slick -- one integrated piece that spans the width of the center console. The other trim looks like a two-piece that isn't as seamless. Can you guys post which trim kit you used (manufacturer/model) so that others can order the trim kit they prefer?

I think the OP is saying he had to buy a new tuner for $75 to be compatible with the F series, not pay to have the service switched. I've switched my Sirius account around a bunch of times to different tuners and have never been charged a fee.

Ugh. That's really disappointing. I gave up watching the video at 1:45 and think I'd go crazy if I had to wait that long every day before the unit was ready to go. I sold my D3 a couple of weeks ago in anticipation of a 90BT, but can't pull the trigger after reading (and seeing) things like this. I'm not sure if I'll wait for an update or look more seriously at Kenwood's offerings. I already love the Garmin nav that Kenwood incorporates. The D3's ugly and hard-to-use nav was what caused me to sell the D3 in the first place. The nav in the F series looks better, but it's not enough to o

Thanks for all the suggestions and letting me know that mine isn't the only D3 with this problem. I just got back from a trip and low and behold, my GPS works once again. I didn't do anything to it other than let it sit unused for about a week. If it happens again, I'll try some of the tips in this thread -- especially using the reset hole, which I didn't know existed. For now, though, everything on my D3 is good.

I installed my D3 about six weeks ago and all was going well until this week. The GPS map now shows my location at a fixed point somewhere in Los Angeles, even though I live in/around Chicago. Two problems: 1. I'm not in L.A. but the map shows me there 2. My location on the L.A. map doesn't move. It shows me sitting in the same spot, even though my vehicle is moving I thought maybe the GPS antenna had worked its way loose, but it's showing multiple satellites (see attached). Is there anything else to check/reset to try to fix this?[/img]

It's not really a problem unless you only listen to CDs and do a lot of long-distance traveling. I listen mainly to Sirius and occasionally my iPod. I've never used an audio CD with my D3. There are just so many other ways to get music into the system that I haven't had the need to. Other nav systems do allow you to use full nav and listen to CDs simultaneously. These systems either have two disc slots or use hard drive based navigation. They also generally cost a lot more than the D3.

I'm getting ready for phase II of my D3 install. This part is 3-way component speakers/amp/sub. I'm running new 12 ga wires into the doors for the midbass drivers and tweeters, running back to the crossovers somewhere in the main part of the car. The tweeters have 4' leads attached to them. When I connect these to the new 12 ga wires, I want to use some sort of quick disconnect so I can remove the door panel easily in the future. What's the best way to do this? Are 3M quick disconnects or bullets good enough or will these impact the current flowing to the speakers? A better way? Th

Makes sense, thanks for the insight.

I installed my D3 in a couple of phases over the weekend. At one point, I had the main unit connected but not the add-ons (Sirius, Bluetooth, etc.). I needed to drive my car so I quickly buttoned up the dash but hadn't yet connected the VSS or reverse sense connections. When I was driving, I decided to check out the nav features. To my surprise, everything seemed to be working correctly, even with the VSS and reverse disconnected. That got me to thinking ... what's the point of connecting them? What do they do? None of the handheld GPS units (Garmin, TomTom) I've used require those typ

Got everything wired up this weekend. I soldered all connections, including those where multiple wires came together. For the 12V switched and battery lines, I was able to remove about 1/2" of insulation from the feeds without cutting the wire using a wire stripper to make two parallel cuts and then an Xacto knife to remove the insulation. From there, it was easy to wrap the new lines around the stipped wire, heat, solder, wrap with electrical tape and then spiral wrap for added protection. I practiced several times beforehand with some extra wire (highly recommended ) and was amazed

You're right -- I double-checked products during lunch today. Both the Sirius module and the Bluetooth module take constant power (yellow wires). The backup camera uses switched accessory power (red wire). I guess my question is more along the lines of: if I don't want to use t-taps (or wire nuts) to connect multiple wires, what's the best way to solder them? Is there an good, easy way to strip insulation from the middle of a wire without cutting it? I tried with my Klein Tools stripper and it just kind of pushed the insulation together for about 3/8". Is that enough space to add in tw

I'm working on installing my D3 in a Toyota FJ Cruiser. So far, so good. Along with the D3, I have the Sirius and Bluetooth modules, as well as the backup camera. They all require switched/ACC power. I'd like to run all these off the red ACC power line from the factory harness. I soldered all of my other connections (1 wire to 1 wire) but am not sure how to solder to multiple wires (1 wire to 4 wires) together. Do I just strip the wires as usual, twist in a big lump and solder? Can I do 5 at once, together, or should I somehow solder each power connection separately? I know this is S

The 15% off Pioneer products deal is still going on. Purchase three Pioneer items over $49/ea and enter code 3A185 on the order form. You'll save 15% on each of the items. While I'm pretty sure you won't get the free backup camera, you'll still get a pretty nice discount off list price. I've also seen the D3 in Crutchfield's scratch-and-dent area for $849 and their outlet area for $899. There's one in the outlet right now for $899 and you can use the 15% off code on it, too. Sirius and XM satellite radio modules are half price now, saving about $50. And you can use my referral code