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AVIC - N1 bypass w/Hi-res board scans..


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#16 Guest__*

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Posted 14 June 2006 - 09:05 PM

In my car.
A guy on e-bay does them all the time.
Trying to do the forum a favor, but let's face it, most of you couldn't get the thing apart without tearing the screens flex cable, breaking ribon cable sockets, and screwing up the motherboard with your 500W radioshack soldering gun.
Forget I even posted it!

MODERATOR, TAKE THE POST DOWN PLEASE.

#17 Paul1965

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Posted 15 June 2006 - 12:44 AM

In my car.
A guy on e-bay does them all the time.
Trying to do the forum a favor, but let's face it, most of you couldn't get the thing apart without tearing the screens flex cable, breaking ribon cable sockets, and screwing up the motherboard with your 500W radioshack soldering gun.
Forget I even posted it!

MODERATOR, TAKE THE POST DOWN PLEASE.


I said I wasn't trying to be sarcastic. Just the fact that you were listed as "guest" made me question it, that's all. Anybody could pop in here unregistered, post what they claim is the fix resulting in someone trying it and frying an expensive piece of equipment. Believe me, if that is the solution, all of us will be eternally gratefull.

#18 Guest__*

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Posted 15 June 2006 - 03:22 PM

Maybe I am trying to be Anonymous.

If you want go to ebay and buy a service manual for the N1, N2, and N3.
Look at the N3 and it will say to use the N2 manual along with the N3 manual for additions. One addition is the SWITCH. The N2 manual doesn't talk about R197 since it is not filled with a component. Why reference it if it never needs to be repaired. Since the N3 has a SWITCH it is referenced and shows you what it does.

The schematic where the switch goes is the same as the N2 and N1.
THE IMODEON is in the same location on all there.
THE R197 and S151 (switch) are routed from the underside (for acessability) to the A side of the main board. Since the N1 doesn't have either R197 or S151 you need to do it on the A/main side as noted in the picture.

AGAIN, the parts are small and MOST will damage their $300+ main board (CC Unit) trying to solder this small of components.

PAY SOMEONE TO DO IT that is competent. I don't want to be held acountable for anything!

If someone wants to prove it... Take your N2 or better yet N3 and take it apart. Test for continuity from the marked areas (same on all three) to the R197 or S151. You will see that it is the SAME.



Thanks MOD for keeping this forum Anonymous for the people who have knowledge and want to share without compromising anything. I guess unless you log IP's and have a court order to give them up. I SURE HOPE NOT!

#19 Guest__*

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Posted 15 June 2006 - 04:06 PM

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

I AM SORRY!!!
I DREW THE WRONG LOCATION.
PLEASE DON'T USE THE FIRST PICTURE WITH THE HACK. IT IS WRONG!!!

REPEAT:

DON'T USE THAT HACK! IT REFERENCES THE WRONG POINTS!

MOD/ADMIN - PLEASE REMOVE THE PICTURE WITH THE WRONG HACK.

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

#20 Guest__*

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Posted 15 June 2006 - 05:56 PM

I am waiting to post the correct picture of the hack once the mod deletes the wrong one so there is no confusion.

#21 Guest__*

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Posted 15 June 2006 - 09:12 PM

I am waiting to post the correct picture of the hack once the mod deletes the wrong one so there is no confusion.


Can you post your picture without waiting? Right picture will not confuse people.
I send my unit for mod to VA and it should arrive soon. I’ll compare if this is same procedure. Also, how you find this out?

#22 Guest_GUEST_*

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 11:56 AM

..........

#23 Guest__*

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 03:55 PM

Here is the correct mod.

I was reading the schematics after the inital post and it started to not look correct and it wasn't. I was going from memory when I drew the first one.

The top connection is CORRECT in both picts. This doesn't change unless you want to go directly to the pin on the ASIC chip on the B side.

The bottom connection I incorrectly drew on the first post is not the correct line.

The line connects to many components near the one I am posting here in GREEN, but the point where I drew is an easy point to solder to.

You can tag more than a half a dozen spots that share the smae line even on the other side of the motherboard. The B side (other side) is where the ASIC chip (PD6336B) resides anyway, but it is easier to do the mod on the A side so you don't have to take the board out of the chassis OR un-solder the sheilding cover the chips that reside on the bottom.

SORRY for the error.

Attached Files



#24 EssTEye

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 06:33 PM

Sorry man... I also can't see what Guest is trying to show. What exactly was modded on the N1 picture? And a dumb noob question. Is this circuit board on the brain unit or the HU?

This work for the 60MT discs?

#25 EssTEye

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 06:37 PM

My bad... I see the hack now. Still have the question about where this circuit board is located.

Thanks.

#26 Guest__*

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 06:46 PM

It works with 50 and 60 discs.

It is the Head Unit not the brain. The brain for all Nx are interchangable.

After you take off the screen assembly and then take out the DVD, looking at the bottom right with the fans facing away from you. You will find a silver shield covering the area. Three screws and you can gently pry off the cover, it's held in with presure after the screws are removed.

Reference the FIRST BIG pictures.

DON'T ATTEMPT THIS MOD YOURSELF!!

This stuff is as small as PS2 mods if not smaller.

#27 Guest__*

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Posted 21 June 2006 - 05:47 PM

I have mod on my AVIC-N1 (I send my unit to VA to some Pioneer dealer). I got navigation 1 day ago and disassemble it to see where is this mod. Most part of board what shown on your picture are covered with silicone (to restrict access). I clean up area what shown on your photo but didn’t find any trace of bypass work. I was afraid to remove rest of silicon to clean up board (it’s very hard to do this without damaging board).
Looks like bypass located somewhere else. Are you sure your bypass is working???

#28 Guest_Guest_*

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 02:51 PM

I did this and it worked great. Unfortunately, somehow when I was inside my AVIC, I screwed up the angle montion of the unit. Now i have to move it upright manually and leave it that way.

#29 Paul1965

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Posted 24 June 2006 - 07:04 PM

Alright, a couple of things about the corrected mod posted by Guest. Number one: IT WORKS. Number two: GET A MANUAL. I bought one for $3.99 off of ebay and had it delivered right to my email (PDF). Number three: you do not have to remove the screen. I left mine in the out position (but lowered) when I disconnected the power and removed the unit from the dash. The only thing you want to be sure of is to protect it well when working. Number four: use the right tools. The screws are made of very soft steel, and some of them are in very tight. The wrong size phillips will strip the screw and you'll be stuck. Last but not least: IF YOU HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU'RE ABOUT TO GET INTO, LEAVE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL!

As far as the mod itself goes, I used a magnifying glass, a halogen worklight clamped to the desk, and 30 gauge enamel coated wire. Using a 15 watt soldering iron and a piece of the wire about one inch long, I heated the enamel on each end then carefully scraped the enamel away. Next I tinned the wire and soldered it to the points shown in the post. I then covered the top and bottom of the jumper with a small piece of electrical tape just to make sure it wouldn't short out anywhere. I put it back together and back in the car. You do still have to have the e-brake wire grounded (or toggled) for this to work. Good luck!

#30 Guest_dman_*

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 07:21 PM

guest please help ,did the mod but nothing happend ,just had to reset and didnt change anything and i used the pic in green




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