kerosene Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 lol... such an amusing thread... people... if you cant figure out this simple item theres two things you shouldnt be doing.... 1. playing with the programming of the unit. 2. DRIVING AND WATCHING MOVIES! but hey, as long as you are not by me and doing it, I can care less Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmdm212 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 well is there a way to delete the 2.0 and then fix the whole data file then upload it again? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cwilliams Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 Thanks for posting the directions couldn't be better! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rx50cent Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 im having problems installing the f900bt to the 350z. basically im a complete noob. i was going for the software bypass, and the first time i install the unit i just connected the ebrake wire with the black wire which i think is the ground wire and another green wire from the harness (see pic) http://208.109.166.78/avicd3/harness.jpg. and i get the warning ebrake not properly grounded after i start driving. so i open up everything and this time i connected the ebrake with the black wire and screw it to a good ground, and the other green wire to another screw guess what same warning msg. can anyone point out to me where the problem might be? also i do not have the plug with the mute wire (yellow and black) connect to the unit cuz i have no idea what to connect at the other end. seems like the unit works fine without it. if i were to do the hardware bypass instead, where does the other end of the mute wire connect to? and lastly, where do i find data.zip within testmode's windows environment? i know its a stupid question but as i said i know nothing about hacking and stuff, any help is appreciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j3cubcapt Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 I followed the instructions on the first page and she worked like a charm in a '03 Mercedes ML500! Thanks for the HACK! Will Dallas Tx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
big-fokker Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 lol... such an amusing thread... people... if you cant figure out this simple item theres two things you shouldnt be doing.... 1. playing with the programming of the unit. 2. DRIVING AND WATCHING MOVIES! but hey, as long as you are not by me and doing it, I can care less +1 If they don't have the attention span to read through the whole thread to get the info that's been given repeatedly, they definitely shouldn't attempt driving with motion video in their car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
interplay Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 The ground wire and p brake wire should be grounded separately. If you ground them at the same place, it can detect the ground and gives you an error about improper wiring. However, if you have them already attached, try updating to Firmware 2.0. After wiring them together, soldering, and shrink tubing... I thought I would have to pull them apart to get rid of the annoying error. I updated and ran the software bypass... no error any more. It is much neater all wired together. The error only flashes you an annoying screen once and after you hit OK, everything works fine until you reboot... so it is not too bad even if you get it. Personally, the soft hack is better for me.. no wire switching and I don't have to plug in all those RCA cables when I have no Ipod, amps or backup cam. My model is the avicf700. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ocdavep Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 maybe i missed it in all these pages, but has anyone answered WHY the mute wire needs moved lol? Everyone just says it does but never tells why. curious if it was answered? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
big-fokker Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 maybe i missed it in all these pages, but has anyone answered WHY the mute wire needs moved lol? Everyone just says it does but never tells why. curious if it was answered? My guess is that the pin that you are re-connecting it to needs to be grounded. It was the same with my Avic Z1. Welcome to the forums Quote Link to post Share on other sites
interplay Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 This is only a guess, but chances are that they included extra pins for factory testing and bench diagnosing.... when they get a unit in for servicing, they aren't going to install it in a car to test it. There is also a chance that this wire does more than bypass the p-brake. I have read posts on the site where their unit reboots every time they go above 10 km/hr.... the same speed as the pbrake safety kick in... Make sure you follow directions correctly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wce Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 how do you actually get the file, edit it and get it back into the unit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kylejohnston1 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 I pulled my mute wire out of the harness with no problem. When I went to insert it in slot 4, it got stuck and would not go any farther. I pulled it out again and the metal connector at the end of the wire was bent. I tried to bend it back and it broke off. Crap! Now I have a naked mute wire and no way to attach it to the pin. I need another female pin connector to attach to the end of the mute wire. does anyone know where I can get one of these small metal connectors that slide into the white harness without having to buy a whole new wiring assembly from Pioneer? Thanks, Kyle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lseguy1 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 I pulled my mute wire out of the harness with no problem. When I went to insert it in slot 4, it got stuck and would not go any farther. I pulled it out again and the metal connector at the end of the wire was bent. I tried to bend it back and it broke off. Crap! Now I have a naked mute wire and no way to attach it to the pin. I need another female pin connector to attach to the end of the mute wire. does anyone know where I can get one of these small metal connectors that slide into the white harness without having to buy a whole new wiring assembly from Pioneer? Thanks, Kyle radio shack. You may need to buy a small package that has a plug in it, then remove a wire from that plug, then remove the pin..from that wire. Or cut and splice that wire to the wire in the avic harness..so you wont risk messing up the pin on your radio shack wire. But radio shack definitely can help you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ninety4formula Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Hey guys another newb to the forum here. I just bought an AVIC F90BT and installed it trying the hardware hack. I moved the mute wire just like shown in the pics and soldered it to the ground wire coming out of the deck. I also soldered the PB wire to the ground wire coming out of the deck. I thought that was it, but as soon as I hit around 10 mph I get a error like a lot of other users saying the PB wire is not connected correctly. My unit has firmware 2.0. I know how to solder (used to be an installer, but haven't done indash nav or anything when I was an installer). Is there something I am missing? Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
interplay Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 ground the wires separately especially the pb wire, attach it to the frame or something. It detects if you have them wired togeather. I have to do mine as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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