waldo238 Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 OK here is another question for you. My truck is a ford diesel with glow plugs so after they warm up I can then start the engine. My problem is the unit is not all the way booted up when I go to start it so it locks up. So what I do is let it come all the way up and then start it and this works fine. Is there anything I can do like go to another power wire that does not go down during the starting process? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madsonp Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 You could just tie your red + (switched power) wire to the orange + (constant power) wire however you'd have to put a switch in the red wire someplace. You'd have to turn it on and off with this switch because it would no longer be switched from your ignition switch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blackh8552 Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 or you can put a relay in so it will stay powered up until the truck is started... do a search for diesel and you will find a thread on how to do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrdiesel Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 Easiest way is to run the red (ACC) wire to your ignition instead of the radio accessory wire. It will stay energized during the crank cycle. Only draw back is, you wont be able to run your AVIC by turning your key backwards to ACC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crtlv Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 OK here is another question for you. My truck is a ford diesel with glow plugs so after they warm up I can then start the engine. My problem is the unit is not all the way booted up when I go to start it so it locks up. So what I do is let it come all the way up and then start it and this works fine. Is there anything I can do like go to another power wire that does not go down during the starting process? read my reply to this thread and it will explain how to isolate your starting circut from the remote start unit. I have done this fix a bunch of times on gas and all diesel trucks and its a perfect fix. Perhaps we can get a Forum mod to sticky this fix for future reference ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
terron Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 You could just tie your red + (switched power) wire to the orange + (constant power) wire however you'd have to put a switch in the red wire someplace. You'd have to turn it on and off with this switch because it would no longer be switched from your ignition switch what a great way to not solve the problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rdkl Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 What year is your truck? I don't have this issue in my 2008 F250 or in my 09 TDI Jetta. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crtlv Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 What year is your truck? I don't have this issue in my 2008 F250 or in my 09 TDI Jetta. all depends on how the remote starter is set up.Some cars and trucks require that the Accesory wires from the ignition switch be powered up during remote start.Some cars use the accesory circut to power the eletric fans or even the A/C compressor and thoes are things needed when you want your vehicle cooled while under remote start control. Again its a vehicle specific or even installer specific issue.My posted soloution will fix your problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waldo238 Posted December 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 My truck does not have remote start and it is a 7.3 2003 PSD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatchMeIfYouCan631 Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 You could just tie your red + (switched power) wire to the orange + (constant power) wire however you'd have to put a switch in the red wire someplace. You'd have to turn it on and off with this switch because it would no longer be switched from your ignition switch Orange is Illumination, chief. Yellow's constant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madsonp Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 You could just tie your red + (switched power) wire to the orange + (constant power) wire however you'd have to put a switch in the red wire someplace. You'd have to turn it on and off with this switch because it would no longer be switched from your ignition switch Orange is Illumination, chief. Yellow's constant. I knew that, that's what I meant, my mistake. Thanks for correcting me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrdiesel Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 I would still have to say that my suggestion is the easiest way on that truck. Run the red AVIC (switched power) wire to your steering column. Remove the (4) 10mm bolts holding your fuse panel in place, and gently pull it out of the way. Attach the red AVIC wire (add a fuse for safety) to the Ford's Red/Green wire. (May also be White/Yellow) The radio will stay on during the crank cycle, and will not reset. But you will lose the ability to turn your key back to have the radio on, and will also lose Retained Accesory Power (having the radio stay on after you are done driving, until you open the door). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crtlv Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 I would still have to say that my suggestion is the easiest way on that truck. Run the red AVIC (switched power) wire to your steering column. Remove the (4) 10mm bolts holding your fuse panel in place, and gently pull it out of the way. Attach the red AVIC wire (add a fuse for safety) to the Ford's Red/Green wire. (May also be White/Yellow) The radio will stay on during the crank cycle, and will not reset. But you will lose the ability to turn your key back to have the radio on, and will also lose Retained Accesory Power (having the radio stay on after you are done driving, until you open the door). ok if removing 4 bolts running new wires taping into a fuse panel is easier than a 30 second relay install is easier then by all means go that route. And with the relay you still keep everything as it shoud be and retain the acc function and RAP.But what do i know what works for you works.Ide just keep it simple Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crtlv Posted December 27, 2008 Report Share Posted December 27, 2008 sorry didnt notice that i did not put up the link to the fix that i posted here for another similar issue heres the link http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20327 and here is the fix i recomend If you have a car or truck that needs all the Accesories powered up "Ie some chevys and fords" during remote start or wait to start situations you should do this to isolate your radio from turning on during remote start or wait to start. Have your installer isolate the 12v turn on wire to your stereo using a standard 5 pole "Bosch"relay. Have them use the ground when running outputwire off the remote start unit to kill the turn on wire"Ie ACC Wire" to the stereo. That way when you use your key,the stereo will turn on as usual but not be on when the truck is Under remote start control.This will also retain your RAP if your vehicle has it and also eliminate the stereo staying on after the remote starter is shut down from your remote or the remote starter has timed out and you will not be driving your vehicle Here is the Easy way to do it use a standard 5 position relay 87a- car side of 12v turn on wire to stereo "Ie RED WIRE or switched wire. 30 Avic side of 12 v switched "red wire" 86-Whatever wire is the GROUND WHEN RUNNING wire on the remote starter unit 85 to 12v constant Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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