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AVIC Z110BT Bypass?


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I pulled the HU from my truck to verify all of my connections. I checked the connectors to ground with a ohm meter, and they all checked out. I pulled the moved mute wire, and installed it in the connector again. I put the HU back in, and was very careful when I seated the white connector, making sure that it seated properly. With the dash apart, and the HU connected, I took a quick test spin. Everything seemed to work. I went home, put the dash back together, and gave it another test drive. Everything seems to be working for now....hopefully, re-seating the connector did the trick.

 

If not, would it be possible to disconnect the speed sensor wire? What effect would that have on the GPS NAV?

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If you disconnect the VSS it will not help the bypass. The unit has an internal gyro, and knows when it is moving based on gyro and gps satelite signals. The VSS just helps it to be more accurated when you first turn on while it aquires satelites, or when the sky is blocked (tunnels, parking garages, etc).

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hey guys does anyone know if this by-pass will work on the UK version F10BT ? I should be picking mine up Thursday (units delayed coming in to the UK) I cant wait to git that sucker in :D

 

if its the same as the 900 then all we do in the UK is ground the lead that goes to the handbrake afaik - not as complicated as the US

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I had my guy do the bypass and upon start-up, a message comes up before the "do not operate while driving" screen that says that there is an issue with my emergency brake lead wire (not verbatim). It asks me to press "OK." So, I have to press two OKs to get to my home screen. A little annoying. How do I get around this? My stereo guy is busy until next week. I can wait till then but I want to gather info so I can explain it to him. Thanks

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How do I get around this?

 

Get him to do the bypass correctly. The instructions are clear in this thread and others in this section of the forum.

 

Gee thanks for stating the obvious LOL. I didn't refer him to this thread because I gave him the benefit of the doubt of doing it correctly since he's worked extensively with Pioneer decks. However, this is the first 110 he's worked on. My question was more like, "has anyone else had this happen?" in reference to the message I get upon start-up.

 

Thanks

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The only way to get around it, is to do it correctly. I know it may sound obtuse, to some degree, but the simple fact is that something (grounding, pin change, etc.) is not correct. I've heard this at least a hundred times since I posted the instructions on the 110 bypass.

 

There have been numerous folks that have argued up and down and all around that their installation was perfect, and that it measures this or that on the multimeter, so it just must be something else. However, in every instance they went back, followed the instructions closely and really scrutinized their work, and viola, it started working just like magic!

 

-B-

 

How do I get around this?

 

Get him to do the bypass correctly. The instructions are clear in this thread and others in this section of the forum.

 

Gee thanks for stating the obvious LOL. I didn't refer him to this thread because I gave him the benefit of the doubt of doing it correctly since he's worked extensively with Pioneer decks. However, this is the first 110 he's worked on. My question was more like, "has anyone else had this happen?" in reference to the message I get upon start-up.

 

Thanks

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You're not being obtuse at all and I appreciate the feedback. I will speak to my stereo guy. I wish I could do this stuff myself, but I'm simply inept when it comes to this kind of stuff.

 

The only way to get around it, is to do it correctly. I know it may sound obtuse, to some degree, but the simple fact is that something (grounding, pin change, etc.) is not correct. I've heard this at least a hundred times since I posted the instructions on the 110 bypass.

 

There have been numerous folks that have argued up and down and all around that their installation was perfect, and that it measures this or that on the multimeter, so it just must be something else. However, in every instance they went back, followed the instructions closely and really scrutinized their work, and viola, it started working just like magic!

 

-B-

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Hey guys does anyone know if this by-pass will work on the UK version F10BT ? I should be picking mine up Thursday (units delayed coming in to the UK) I cant wait to git that sucker in :D

 

if its the same as the 900 then all we do in the UK is ground the lead that goes to the handbrake afaik - not as complicated as the US

 

Why would that be? less complicated I mean, just had a look at the power lead and the F10BT has the yellow mute lead, was that on the 900's as well?

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Hey guys does anyone know if this by-pass will work on the UK version F10BT ? I should be picking mine up Thursday (units delayed coming in to the UK) I cant wait to git that sucker in :D

 

if its the same as the 900 then all we do in the UK is ground the lead that goes to the handbrake afaik - not as complicated as the US

 

Why would that be? less complicated I mean, just had a look at the power lead and the F10BT has the yellow mute lead, was that on the 900's as well?

 

tbh i'm not sure - had mine upgraded to the F10 yesterday and it was just a straight swap all the wiring was the same afaik - only took an hour

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So, I think i pretty much know what the problem is but wanted a 2nd opinion, or 4.

 

I just installed my z110BT, love it... when its on. The problem I am having is that when the car is in ACC mode, it starts up and runs like it is supposed to, but when I turn the car to ON or Start the car up. the screen gos all black with a message that says "Caution: Screen may appear reversed", not word for word, but damn close.

 

Could this be because I did the bypass wrong? Thats pretty much my first thought but wanted a confirmation before I started fiddling some more. We went back thru the wiring harness and double checked everything including if it was seeing the voltages it needed and the grounds was supposed to and everything seems to be checking out fine. So frustrating. Are you supposed to remove the 0.5|AMP|0.85 red vampire box from the end of the parking break when you tie it to ground?

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