jwq Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 .... Why would that be? less complicated I mean, just had a look at the power lead and the F10BT has the yellow mute lead, was that on the 900's as well? Because, in Europe, legislation is less strict... (and people don't stand a chance trying to sue Pioneer if something happens whilst they're watching a video during driving.... ) For all European Pioneer units, it's always been a simple matter of just grounding the handbrake wire.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
duckie Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 The only time you should get that message is when your viewing the back up cam. If you go into your rear view cam settings make sure the polarity is set to BATTERY and not GND. You are my hero. I had convinced myself that I wired it up wrong, bypass included, that when i had a fleeting thought of it acting like a rear viewing camera I dismissed it. I went into the options and it was on BATTERY, but the camera was selected as ON. So I switched it to off and now it works superbly. Couldn't be happier. Thank you so much for you help. Also have to thank this entire thread for all the discussion it really helped guide me through the process and what pit falls I will encounter. LOVE this unit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hemiuk Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 unit powered up with just the h/brake cable grounded out and works a treat, everything available, yet to test the DVD whilst on the move though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 I went into the options and it was on BATTERY, but the camera was selected as ON. So I switched it to off and now it works superbly. Actually you may have your camera trigger connected to a negative source. I thats the case, you can switch BATTERY to GND and it will allow you to use your camera without the problem you encountered. Otherwise, I am glad I was able to help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Iggyg00 Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 ok Im having issues with this bypass and have a couple of questions. This is what i did so far.... Moved MUTE wire one over on the white connector tied that wire and the brake wire to ground on a piece of the truck Know the question i have is when you go and drive the vehicle is your brake showing on all the time in the navigation settings section. I have been at this for 5 hours and its starting to really bug me...... HELPP..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
garrettoomey Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 Yes, the parking brake will show as "on" in the nav settings. The moved mute wire will keep the unit from displaying an ERROR message on the main screen wit a warning about the parking brake being wired incorrectly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Iggyg00 Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 Know i have a bunch more questions because it still is not working. 1.What type of connectors is everyone using? I bought some shrink tubing with what looks like solder in it, as you heat it up it melts and shrinks. would this cause a connection issue? 2. Does everyone have there reverse wire hooked up? would not having this hooked up cause an issue? 3. How do you insert a disk? I have tried the following pressed the eject button which brings up that bar on the bottom of the screen. I pressed the open nothing happened, the tilt buttons look to be grayed out, and the insert SD card does nothing. I hope i don't have a defective unit because i drove 1.5 hrs to get it and that would be a long drive back.... Also where can i get new wiring harnesses for the back of the unit if i screw them up to bad? Thank you in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 1. I would say your method of joining the wires together may be the problem. You should solder or use crimping caps to splice the wires together to make sure you have a good connection. Also make sure the relocated wire is secured in the slot properly. 2. Hs nothing to do with your problem 3. That sounds like a defective unit. You should not be having those problems regardless of the bypass problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Iggyg00 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hello, THank you for the info... Couple more questions: 1. Is there somewhere I can buy new harnesses for the unit as the ones I have are getting really short? or should i just return the harness with the unit and get new ones? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 I wouldn't worry about the harness if your going to return the unit for exchange. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Iggyg00 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Well drove to columbia today and exchanged it with no problems basically slide the old one out of the dash and installed the new one right there. The only issue is i still have the old harness and the white connector is pretty beat up so im going to buy another one from pioneer to do the mod. Thanks everyone for the help im sure i will have some more questions as i get the mod working. I like the N3 where you just bent a paperclip and moved a switch under a label and everything worked lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1coole60530 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 I've been lurking and I finally purchased a Z110BT and install this pass weekend but for some reason I cannot get the wire out to do the bypass. I already beat up the harness and yellow wire is still does not come out. I Lifted up the locking tab not all the way, but it is almost all the way on the yellow wire. I'm afraid that I may ruin this harness and will not work altogether Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 I had the same problem when I did my bypass. What worked for me was to brace the tab open with a small screw driver and insert a thumb tac into the hole of the wire you want to remove from the front of the harness. The thumb tac pushed the wire out without any problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1coole60530 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Thanks VBLUE42. That's what I've been doing, I'll try again. Thanks again for your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blade Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 I tried everything you guys have mentioned but still had no luck in getting that damn mute wire out.... so, I took a length of the 'pink' wire extention that came with the unit and stripped off about 10mm and slid it in the slot next to the mute wire. I used a piece of leftover stripped insulation to wedge the wire in place making sure it seated to the very end so that I could see copper from the pin-side and threaded the wire into the ziptie on the harness. I then used a small needle about the size of the pins on the HU to make a path between the copper strands for the pin to follow. Connected everthing the way described above, and the bypass was successful..... Unfortunately, there is a gawdawful noise that comes from the RF speaker and excess hissing in the system. And I dont get doorchimes like I am supposed to...Either my GMOS-LAN-01 is defective, or there is something screwey with how my conversion van is wired. I went back and checked all my connections, and even disconnected the RF wire coming off of the harness, but still get the screwey static from the RF door speaker. Not sure what to do other than bring it into a shop... At least I know the bypass can be done without nearly breaking my harness again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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