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My 2004 F-150 Install


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We could be twins!! Now you just need a mod or two and a stiffening cap to keep the radio from rebooting everytime you have to restart it. That was my biggest gripe with the install on my effonefittie. All you need is a .5 farad cap, a switch, two diodes, and some clean wiring gear and you're in business.

 

i also have a couple of amps behind the rear seat (screw) and one 12" pioneer shallow mount sub in a custom box under the rear seat that is easily removable. I went with a pioneer 6.5" component set up front and some higher end 6X8's in the back.

 

Keep going, feed the addiction!

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My '04 use to reboot when I went from accessory to starting the vehicle. It's more of a nuisance than a problem. If I stopped for gas while the kids where watching a movie on the ipod, I'd lose my place if I restarted. The voltage on the accessory 12v would drop to less than 10.8 volts for a second and cause the radio to reboot. Now I have the cap that I can turn on and off at will. I had a couple of hiccups along the way but it's very stable now. I only turn it on when I know that I'm going to be getting in and out. It'll actually leave the radio on for about 12 seconds if I don't turn it off. That's useful in case I only have one key and have to unlock the tailgate or something like that.

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"The voltage on the accessory 12v would drop to less than 10.8 volts for a second and cause the radio to reboot"

 

Is that what the problem is? I did a bypass on my F150, basically cut the switched wire and put a wired manual switch to the 12v constant so I can turn it off and on manually with the truck being on or off. I actually had it in my old chevy truck with no issues and now have an 07 f150 and when I turn off the truck the F700 stays on as it should but when I restart it it reboots!

 

Please tell me more about this mod or point me to more info.

 

Cheers!

T

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Let me get some info together and I'll post up. I started off by just wiring a 40buck .5 farad scosche cap from Wally mart in line to the 12v accessory wire. This works but when I tapped a door lock after opening the doors it caused the voltage from the cap to feed back into the truck and blew the 15amp fuse that covers the accessories after the vehicle is turned (exit delay?!?) This is where the diodes come in, they only allow voltage to flow in one direction. I bought them from radio shack but I don't have the number. The whole shebang cost me 50$ including the switch and cap. I will draw it up and post soon.

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That's great thanks!

I have a question, does the farad cap only work when you hit a switch or is it always doing something? From what I gathered you need to hit a switch to keep the voltage at 12 while the truck reboots which gives you a few seconds of proper power levels.

To eliminate this can't one simply run a dedicated power line from the battery to the radio's constant power and switched acc lines with an in line fuse? I bypassed my acc line in the dash to a manual under dash switch hooking right into the constant line. My question is, is the power drop at the battery? Or somewhere after that's causing this issue?

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not sure where the power drop is. I've read that it is the Ford wiring's way of protecting the system while the starter is cranking. so far my system is not bullet proof because the diodes drop the voltage by .4 to .5 volts and sometimes in cold weather the radio still reboots. The benefits of the way I do it is that I don't have to remember to throw the switch when I get out. The cap will drain within 15 seconds. I don't want to put out anything that's not right, so I'm gonna look for better diodes. I just got a pioneer camera and monitor so I'm on a different project right now. I bought a couple of extra overhead rail pockets so that I can mod them with a monitor for the kids. Overkill, I know, but it's fun.

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