Bypass instructions for the Z1

[Guest stryfox]

Thanks guys, I have the avicz1 and now my wife can actually use it when I am driving
The light trick worked for me.
I have not tried a long trip yet to see if it resets.
I have the park wire grounded ans I have not found the speed wire yet.
2004 chrysler crossfire.

[infinkc]

[quote name="stryfox"]Thanks guys, I have the avicz1 and now my wife can actually use it when I am driving
The light trick worked for me.
I have not tried a long trip yet to see if it resets.
I have the park wire grounded ans I have not found the speed wire yet.
2004 chrysler crossfire.[/quote]

Speed Sense dk. green/white power amplifier
Notes: The power amplifier is on the passenger side floor panel under the carpet.

[ducatiboy]

Instead of doing the PAC TR7 and possibly using a diode, I was thinking that you could use a small PIC and have the illumination wire go into that and then one of the outputs would come out of that. Write a page of code that when it comes on the first time, it would (even if your lights were on) have the line to the Z1 be off, then turn it on and off, and then after a few seconds, let the real state of the illumination "come though". Shouldn' t be too hard to set up. We are supposed to have a "personal development goal" to work on at work every now and then. I think I just came up with a cute little project. :)

[Guest transam]

Ive been reading various boards for hours :) Have a few ?'s :)

Just got my Z1 today (ordered it yesterday)
It is replacing my DEH-960MP

I noticed the BLLACK connector is exactly the same as the Z1 so nothing to do there :)

On the 960 Im using the PRE-OUTS so nothing to do there :)

After all the reading etc, it looks like I only need to hook up the following things....
1) the Speed sensor
2) IP Cable for XM tuner (in the back existing from my 960)
3) GPS Antenna
4) EB Wire (Even knowing I have a automatic ??)
5) Illumination.....
6) Plug in FM Antenna

On the illumination cant I install a toggle switch (instead of flicking on headlights... flip switch up to send 12v into it (for the hack) then Back to down position so it will send the power from the illumination )

Does this sound right ?
Do I have to hook up this "EB Wire" ? (I have no idea even where IT or the SPEED Wire is ! :(

Any help would be MUCH MUCH MUCH appreciated :) You can also AIM me ws6tranzam05

Thanks in adv :)

[infinkc]

[quote name="ducatiboy"]Instead of doing the PAC TR7 and possibly using a diode, I was thinking that you could use a small PIC and have the illumination wire go into that and then one of the outputs would come out of that. Write a page of code that when it comes on the first time, it would (even if your lights were on) have the line to the Z1 be off, then turn it on and off, and then after a few seconds, let the real state of the illumination "come though". Shouldn' t be too hard to set up. We are supposed to have a "personal development goal" to work on at work every now and then. I think I just came up with a cute little project. :)[/quote]

i was going to program a pic chip but didnt know how much demand there will be for it, i have all the pic development tools and this application would be a simple one to do.

[JasonH]

Basic Stamps should handle it fine, and are easy to program, but not too cheap. If I had a Z1 I would test it with my Basic Stamp2.

[url=http://www.parallax.com]www.parallax.com[/url]

[JasonH]

Hmm, upon further inspection, it looks like you could get a BS1: [url=http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=BS1-IC]http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=BS1-IC[/url]

And a 12 volt relay with a 5 volt control current and that would be it.

Program to BS1 to send 3 pulses on startup after a short delay and then go to sleep.

Upon getting power it would run this code:

[code]PAUSE 3000 (3 seconds)
HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
SLEEP (turn off until power is reset)[/code]

[infinkc]

pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.

[JasonH]

[quote name="infinkc"]pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.[/quote]

I'm not familiar with that, but it sounds like it would work, and its A LOT cheaper!

[infinkc]

[quote name="JasonH"] [quote name="infinkc"]pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.[/quote]

I'm not familiar with that, but it sounds like it would work, and its A LOT cheaper![/quote]

i guess ill spend some time making the code and try and program one of these things, do you think 3 pulses? or just one, i need to know the timing of how long to wait also, I will make one up for trial and ill send it to someone on the board to try out after i bench test it since i dont have a z1 yet. If all is working properly i will release the hex file and schematic to the users on this forum.

[JasonH]

[quote name="infinkc"]i guess ill spend some time making the code and try and program one of these things, do you think 3 pulses? or just one, i need to know the timing of how long to wait also, I will make one up for trial and ill send it to someone on the board to try out after i bench test it since i dont have a z1 yet. If all is working properly i will release the hex file and schematic to the users on this forum.[/quote]

That would be cool, you could even sell them!

I have no idea what the actual specifics are. Most people say 3 pulses. I know there is only a 2-3 second time window to send the pulses.

[Guest]

Only one pulse is needed. 3 seconds AFTER the remote turn on comes on.

[ducatiboy]

[quote name="infinkc"]pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.[/quote]

Heck, even the PIC10F200 should be able to do this as well. Not a big deal they are both $0.50.

My thoughts are for 12 V in and Ground. Also unhook the illumination wire from the Z1 and plug it into this device. Then one output, the illumination wire to the Z1.

You need 1 processor, 1 5V regulator. Maybe a couple of resistors for a voltage divider for the illumination input to a input pin on the processor. And a fet to connect the 12 V which was the input for this and the regulator to the illumination out. (haven't worked out all this in my head or drawn it up yet). I'm sure theres a cap or so too also which won't be a bad idea.

Then you can disreguard the illumination in line for the first 5 seconds after power on. You turn on, wait 3 seconds, turn on the headlights for 1 second, then turn them off for 1 second. Then turn on or off the illumination out based on what you see on the illumination in. Then you don't need any diode or anything to "protect" the illumination in.

I do have a Z1 and the single turn on and off works. I have tried it and it does work. The only reason you would need more is incase we have the timing off. I'm guessing on the 3 second wait, 1 second on and 1 second off. But that should be real close.

Should be a rather easy project. I won't be able to really work on it till Monday when I'm supposed to be working.

Any thoughts? I like this idea better than just a turn on and off the line and then it's dumb and you need to hook the illumination line with a diode or something.

[edrock200]

Installers, the pac-tr7 has this long disclaimer about always hooking it's outputs to relays, not to the device, is this just a liability statement or is there real danger in wiring it directly?

[ducatiboy]

[quote name="edrock200"]Installers, the pac-tr7 has this long disclaimer about always hooking it's outputs to relays, not to the device, is this just a liability statement or is there real danger in wiring it directly?[/quote]

I looked on PAC's web site and I didn't see the specs I was looking for (max amount of current it can supply). Most likely this is a disclaimer of some sorts. If you hook it up to something which draws too much current then you can hurt your TR7. There is no danger like blowing up your radio or car or anything, but at worse case you would render your TR7 inoperatable. If you were going to use it to turn on 7 amps or something, then yes, you should use a relay. If you were just going to hook it to something like the illumination sense in on your Z1 you won't need any relay.