ducatiboy Posted May 21, 2006 Report Share Posted May 21, 2006 [quote name="mallomm"]Does this mean you have to cut into the wires per manual specifications, or can you still use a wire harness kit?[/quote] No, you can just use a harness. I did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 My installer seems to think all he needs to do is disconnect the speed sensor to get full functionality. Does this work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 [quote name="Anonymous"]My installer seems to think all he needs to do is disconnect the speed sensor to get full functionality. Does this work?[/quote] No, there is a guy on this forum too who is selling the relay switches on ebay to disconnect the speed sensor and ground the parking brake, and he was going to add disconnecting the gps antenna too. This does not work. He has been asking my opinion on this and I told him also that I do not believe this is a reliable method. Now I have only tested my personal unit (on the bench and in a vehicle). But I'm going out on a limb and assume that so far all pioneer avic-z1's are all the same (barring any failures or broken ones). Mine Z1 works great, and is fully functional. Just disconnecting the speed sensor does NOT work on mine and I would assume all other Z1 head units are the same (there is only one version of these out that as far as I know). You might be able to use the relays or disconnecting external inputs to work for a little while, but mine still saw through this. Which means that it's internal accelerometers are also looking for this and there is no way to bypass this thing just by disconnecting external wires and have it reliable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Ok he is adding the switch. So from what I read even if he does it this way where i can switch the speed sense on and off, I would just need to do the light switch on off and I should be good to go, correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 [quote name="Anonymous"]Ok he is adding the switch. So from what I read even if he does it this way where i can switch the speed sense on and off, I would just need to do the light switch on off and I should be good to go, correct?[/quote] If you do have a switch put in for the VSS, it's not going to do anything one way or the other, actually you might confuse the unit since it learns how fast it's going and auto calibrates via that line while you are driving, so by switching it on and off while driving when the unit is first installed, means you could be forcing your nav unit more out of whack. If you just do the headlight thing, don't worry about anything else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Well the problem is the unit is in the shop right now and they are doing it as we speak. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Should I tell them not to ground the parking break? OR is that fine grounded. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 i am in need of a buy pass for my z1 any help????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 [quote name="Anonymous"]Should I tell them not to ground the parking break? OR is that fine grounded.[/quote] If you were going to manually flash your lights or you were going to have a circuit installed (either mine or a TR7 set), then don't even connect it to anything. And you don't want it grounded all the time. You can have it connected to the parking brake like it's supposed to be, but if you use the parking brake that will interfere with your flashing lights working. Read #4 and #5 here: [url=http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=285]http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=285[/url] [quote name="Anonymous"]i am in need of a buy pass for my z1 any help?????[/quote] Read #1 here: [url=http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=285]http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=285[/url] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Ok thanks, I was a little confused. I apprechiate the info. Hopefully this is a clean install and I can do the flash even after they put the switch in. I am not sure they really know what they are doing, but they said the only way the switch interferes is with the speed gyro. But if this fix is better all around I would like to use it. They really were not listening to me when I called and said their version worked, so since I only heard good things of them, I am hoping they know something we dont. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest kroberts Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 I am completely confused... I installed the Z1 in my suburban using the Metra VT-GMOS-04 for the Bose and Onstar integration... and recently found that my Illumination wire on the Metra VT-GMOS-04 is connected to PIN 12 and on the factory connector is on PIN 6. I moved the Metra VT-GMOS-04 to PIN 6 to match, but it still doesn't work. Used the multimeter to test it, and it is only .02 volts when car is started with no lights, then goes to around .6 Volts with lights on. I leave for an 18hr road trip from Texas to Florida in three days and really need this working before then. Any recommendations will help!?!?!?! I have seen threads from other Chevy Silverado owners who are having a similar problem... I think the Chevys handle the dimmer/illum different. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 [quote name="kroberts"]I am completely confused... I installed the Z1 in my suburban using the Metra VT-GMOS-04 for the Bose and Onstar integration... and recently found that my Illumination wire on the Metra VT-GMOS-04 is connected to PIN 12 and on the factory connector is on PIN 6. I moved the Metra VT-GMOS-04 to PIN 6 to match, but it still doesn't work. Used the multimeter to test it, and it is only .02 volts when car is started with no lights, then goes to around .6 Volts with lights on. I leave for an 18hr road trip from Texas to Florida in three days and really need this working before then. Any recommendations will help!?!?!?! I have seen threads from other Chevy Silverado owners who are having a similar problem... I think the Chevys handle the dimmer/illum different.[/quote] Well, if your vehicle uses a pulsed signal to control the dimming of the lights, the volt meter won't read 12v, I will read something like 4v - 8v or something (I would guess). Reading 0.02V to 0.6 volts is not going to cut it. If you want something quick and dirty, go buy yourself a radio shack toggle switch wire it up to 12V switched through the toggle switch and to your ill line on your head unit. Usually the 12V should not be connected (maybe make it a momentairy toggle switch) and when you want to flash the lights flip the switch (if you want to hit that switch to dim the lights you might not want it momentairy). Or you could hunt down a line which goes to 12V when you turn on your head lights. Or maybe the metra was right all along... what's the voltage on pin 12 when the lights are on? I wish I knew more about chevy wiring for you, but I don't. Maybe someone out there has a wiring diagram or something. But since you know your way around a meter, maybe try unhooking the metra harness compleately from the car and using the meter probe all of those pins that come out of the factory harness and see what's there and see if the light/dimmer line in on any of them. If you find one that turns on and off with the lights, but doesn't got to 12V (only like 4v-8v or something) try adjusting the dimmer control on the dash, see if that changes the voltage. And if that works, measure AC voltage and you should see something, then that means it's a signal powering your dimmer. But the Z1 and my circuit will handle that signal type. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest kroberts Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 Thanks for the info. It seems like I read through the 20+ pages of this thing every night to try and makes sense of this! :~) I tried sensing several of the pins from the back while connected and disconnected to the metra... after so many tries, it gets confusing... just know I never found anything seeming to be regulated by the dimmer and nothing of high enough voltage to be close to 12 off of what was marked Illum and/or dimm from the factory side. I do appreciate your input though. I will probably try the toggle option short term, and hit you up for your switched solution when I get back from my trip. BTW, this unit balls! Got my Onstar, XM, Bluetooth and rear camera all hooked up. I had also seen someone complain of the mp3 quality, but mine sounds great with 128k or better. VERY pleased with this unit despite my problems with the OEM setup(I believe that is Chevy's problem with a one-off) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 [quote name="kroberts"]I am completely confused... I installed the Z1 in my suburban using the Metra VT-GMOS-04 for the Bose and Onstar integration... and recently found that my Illumination wire on the Metra VT-GMOS-04 is connected to PIN 12 and on the factory connector is on PIN 6. I moved the Metra VT-GMOS-04 to PIN 6 to match, but it still doesn't work. Used the multimeter to test it, and it is only .02 volts when car is started with no lights, then goes to around .6 Volts with lights on. I leave for an 18hr road trip from Texas to Florida in three days and really need this working before then. Any recommendations will help!?!?!?! I have seen threads from other Chevy Silverado owners who are having a similar problem... I think the Chevys handle the dimmer/illum different.[/quote] I found this on [url=http://www.the12volt.com]www.the12volt.com[/url] 2004 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 4DR SUV WITH 5.3L ENGINE AND STANDARD AUDIO SYSTEM Audio/Mobile Video WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION Battery ORANGE (+) RADIO HARNESS Accesory THE RADIO HARNESS DOES NOT PROVIDE A SWITCHED POWER SOURCE. RUN A WIRE TO THE FUSEBOX FOR SWITCHED POWER. THE ACCESSORY TURN-ON AND AMPLIFIER TURN-ON ARE CONTROLLED BY THE CLASS 2 SERIAL NETWORK. Ground BLACK/WHITE (-) RADIO HARNESS Illumination BROWN (+) RADIO HARNESS Dimmer GRAY (+) RADIO HARNESS LF Speaker (+) TAN LF Speaker (-) GRAY RF Speaker (+) LIGHT GREEN RF Speaker (-) DARK GREEN LR Speaker (+) BROWN LR Speaker (-) YELLOW RR Speaker (+) DARK BLUE RR Speaker (-) LIGHT BLUE Steering Cntrls OPTIONAL THIS VEHICLE MAY BE EQUIPPED WITH OPTIONAL ONSTAR® TELEMATICS EQUIPMENT. USE AN APPROPRIATE INTEGRATION HARNESS OR INSTALLATION PROCEDURE TO ENSURE PROPER FUNCTION OF THIS EQUIPMENT. Speed Cntrl OPTIONAL Radio Security YES I don't know if it's the same as what you got, but it looks like the dimmer might be brown or grey. Double check those wires. Hook a meter to them and turn the lights on and off and let us know what you find. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest kroberts Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 Thanks ducatiboy. I will get to this in the next day or two, so I will get back with the results. appreciate your time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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