hendry2xtrm4u Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Also, in another comment... after re-reading... A capacitor, to my understanding, kind of holds a charge and then allows for current to pass through to your amp. In times of HIGH DRAW from your amp... headlights, dome lights, neons, etc... generally fade or dim. Capacitors will store this extra "power" for these times of high draw, and instead of draining down the battery and making the alternator work harder to charge your battery and power the headlights, etc... It will take that draw from the capacitor... Then your headlights stay lit. I have seen a 1 farad capacitor control this before... I'd say having a 100 farad capacitor can only benefit your system in this scenario. Especially after having an XBOX 360 and other components being powered by this same source. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hendry2xtrm4u Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Not heard of these pure sine wave inverters before. What are the differences, and where can these be found? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Get a pure sine wave inverter and you'll be fine. A cap ain't going to fix it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hendry2xtrm4u Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 I just started reading a little about pure sine wave inverters... and your idea seems to be a good idea from what they describe... Any ideas on locations to buy these? Good deals? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wrx614 Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 they're not cheap and you won't find them at cc or bb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 Yeah they run about 160 for a 300 watt inverter. Which would do the job fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tillithz Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 the neons, the inverter, and accessories like that WILL introduce noise into your system. you 'should' seperate the wiring for those things as much as possible. Since your dealing with audio, you already know how annoying that whine can be. you wouldnt make your connection for your neons, let alone the inverter AT the cap, it would be at the second battery. Also, so you know, if your battery went dead, you WOULDNT have a second to jump off of. UNLESS you used a switch to run your other stuff off of and only when the ignition (car running) was on, but you havent talked about that. So, if one battery were to die, it would also effect the other, you really wouldnt have one battery at say 7 volts and the other at 13 volts, they are interconnected. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delsolitude Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 the best way to do this install is get the wiring diagram of an xbox 360 and figure out what wires are true 12v... the big box (power adapter) is really a power supply... it converts house style electricity to 12v standard so in theroy... your car starts as 12v.. gets converted to house in the inverter... then back to 12v... see the redundancy? ive seen this done successfully with xbox's (xbox's have the same issue) the difference is you can get a 12v car power supply and plug it into an xbox main board... if you're looking for a plug and play solution... then you need to get some sort of 2nd battery that you can disconnect from the main battery to remove engine noise.... then while the ignitions off have both batterys auto bridge to drain some power from the main battery to the xbox battery... but thats a pain in the arse to set up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tillithz Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 xbox360 is waaaay different then the xbox1, hence the power brick itself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delsolitude Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 xbox360 is waaaay different then the xbox1, hence the power brick itself. they are totally the same... follow the same principles... the way they are built is different.. but they both are built using the same process... the brick itself will just make it easier if anything because the power supply itself is external instead of internal... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tillithz Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 here we go again with fucking flaming. No bro your wrong, Its totally different. You should read up on it actually. The idea that it powers something is really the only similarity. *The power consumption on a 360 is much greater. *The need for 'clean' power is so much more necessary with a 360. *The 360 power supply is around 500 watts compared to the xbox1 which is ~90 watts. *There is more then 'just' 12 volts as suggested previously: the big box (power adapter) is really a power supply... it converts house style electricity to 12v standard I am hoping this was an attempt to dumb things down so that more could understand. There is 5volts and even 3.3 volts with a small tolerance for variation. Also, it is dc, direct current and not ac, or alternating current. Also, dont be so stupid as to 'just' get a second battery. There are things within the power supply to help regulate and even prevent damage to your expensive console should a spike occur, especially in the vehicle enviroment. Also the suggestion about the second battery bridging when the ign. is off is a bit backwards: then you need to get some sort of 2nd battery that you can disconnect from the main battery to remove engine noise.... then while the ignitions off have both batterys auto bridge to drain some power from the main battery to the xbox battery... but thats a pain in the arse to set up typically its seperated when ign. is off and connects when ign. (usually car is running) is on. This way you can charge both batteries with engine on and not kill your battery thats used to start the car when ign. is off .. dedicating one battery to the xbox or whatever system. Honestly, before you try to flame cuz I dont want to hear it you need to clean up your suggestions, they are greatly flawed and really reckless. This recklessness could very well cause damage. Not to mention say good bye to any warranty you thought you could swindle ms out of Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tillithz Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 btw, this post is like a month and a half old, i think the solution has been worked out already. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
94explorer Posted August 10, 2007 Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 And i cant belive it took a month to figgure this one out!! the INVERTER!! the 360 takes ALOT OF POWER ro run, why the heck would you get an inverter that is smaller then the XBOX power cord!! lol You need like a 500-1000 Monster power inverter!! something of quality, run it directly to your battery with 8AWG wire!! DONE!, this is to anyone else who reads this post! i hope you skip to the end and read this!! ANy questions, I AM M.E.C.P. Master Installer! I run a shop in New England! Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delsolitude Posted August 10, 2007 Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 the 12v was just to dumb things down.... and it is all the same... the solution of having the ignition off only is to drain one battery to the other. then when the ignition is on the 360 drains your 2ndary battery without being linked with engine noise and flux in voltage. it wont work for long road trips but its a perfect solution for around town. running resistors to the 5v line and other lines with lesser voltage will solve those issues.... its all quite simple... but ok flame me and do things ass backwards.... just need a cap and proper wiring. keep ac out of the loop Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tillithz Posted August 10, 2007 Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 running resistors to the 5v line and other lines with lesser voltage will solve those issues.... that is what im talking about, it isnt as simple as that, that is reckless and such suggestions will cause problems and even damage to someones system. If it was that simple why wouldnt the original power brick be just a resistor? instead of a heavy damn near the size of a console in of it self. Cuz its not that simple, lets let this thing go at this because someone is going to read the rubbish here and may even try it. We dont want to have to trouble shoot some problem this causes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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