skimaniac3

I live in Toledo, OH, terrible for car theft. I have a D2, but used to have a D1, until some idiot tried to steal it, but I had it bolted in with 4 socket head screws. They managed to trash the dash but couldn't get the unit out so they smashed the screen :-/ My best theft deterrant hasn't been my car alarm (that I hate because I always manage to set the stupid thing off by accident), but just putting something hanging over the dash to cover the stereo. Not sure why exactly it works (I assume because if they can't see it, that means it doesn't exist, just like playing "peek-a-boo" with

Sorry, it's scheduled to list at 10pm EST tonight. I shows up for me as not yet active, but I guess that's because I'm the seller. Anyway, it should be active soon. So, sorry, I'll let it go for what it goes for, no parting out.

I'm letting you know! [url=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320061843717]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0061843717[/url]

Doh! Wasn't getting any sound to XM, figured out I plugged the darn IP bus cable into the IP-BUS In (blue) and not out (black) on the XM tuner

If you're going to use the PS2 in your vehicle, I'd definitely recommend a power inverter with noise filtering. I used a PS2 in my vehicle (Honda Civic) and the alternator induced a constant buzzing noise through the speakers. I'd recommend the Monster MCPI-300: http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Cable-MCPI-300-300-WATT-Inverter/dp/B0002EQVOI/sr=8-1/qid=1165383194/ref=sr_1_1/102-2642955-6512927?ie=UTF8&s=electronics I have one and it works great, no noise what-so-ever. You need to hardwire it, but that means you can put it whereever and not use up power outlets. They also have a 150

I don't think many people usually drive around backwards It's to sense when you do go in reverse to make sense of the movement to the unit and give you more accurate GPS tracking.

That is AWESOME!! You have given me faith in buying a new AVIC! My last one was broken by some would-be theives after 2 weeks and I was hesitant on getting another one since it seems to make me a good target. Good thing with my car, The face of my stock radio can be removed pretty easily and fits snug in the opening due to a rubber gasket.

Yeah, a service manual would be good to have. Once I get my insurance check, I'll make my decision :lol: Anyway, I'll let you guys know if I do list it on ebay.

I'll think about replacing it, but I don't get a lot of free time to mess with repairing it. I've done a lot of electronic work, but as I've learned, even simple repairs will take more time than you expect. I was just considering buying a new one and seeing if I could get any money for the old one. Anyway, how did you find those parts? I tried searching their parts site and didn't find anything more than accessories.

So, two weeks after I install my AVICD1, some not-so-bright criminals attempted to steal it. Well, they couldn't get it out of my dash so they smashed the screen. Everything except the screen should work on it, so is it worth anything? I was thinking about selling it on Ebay to fund my replacement, can anyone make a guess as to what it's worth? I'm sure Pioneer would charge you almost the cost of a new unit to replace the screen, but it would be good for parts if you blew any internals on another unit.

It is a 1999 model. There are only switches for subsonic filter and crossover, which both are off. I didn't think about it, but I also could try switching the inputs to see if the white one is putting out any signal at all. I'll try it tonight. And I did try unpluging the output/input harness and plugging it back in, which didn't change anything. Any ideas on the XM weirdness?

Ok, I wanted to get some more detailed observations based on some suspicions, so here's what I've found: The left/right volume difference ONLY happens when I'm using XM radio (GEX-P900XM Pioneer tuner, an older unit), radio and CD are fine. But, the sub difference still happens. I accessed the RCA outs and noticed there was no change in output when I unpluged the left (white) RCA, but only when the right (red) was unplugged. Both are plugged into my amp, so it should still draw signal from both channels to sum for bridged, right? The amplifier manual states that input should be provid

[quote name="cntrylvr79"]What kind of vehicle is it installed in? What kind of amps, speakers do you have? Were wire harnesses used or was the factory wiring spliced into? Might be able to help you, but need to know that stuff first.[/quote] It is in a 2000 Honda Civic. The fronts are a 6.5" Focal component set (tweeter and midbass with passive crossover), rears are infinity 6x9s, cabin speakers powered by the D1, sub is powered by a USAmps USA-300 2-ch amp bridged. A stock harness adapter was used and connections to D1 harness were soldered.

I have a refurb D1 I bought less than a month ago. Well, not sure when it started, but I noticed yesterday when I was working with door speakers that the driver's side is much more quiet than the passenger. I even adjusted the balance to either side and the left was much weaker, especially in the lower frequencies; my sub didn't make a peep when I adjusted all the way left. The rear speakers have the same effect as well. It doesn't seem like the amp portion is bad because it'll keep going louder without distortion, it's just not as loud as the right and seems to have no bass when a

Looking the the manual on Pioneer's website, you apparently need the standard pioneer 4 pin power connector, but it has two more wires than my XM unit. There is a parking brake wire (which you can probably just ground, but still need connected) and a switched 12v wire (my unit just has a constant 12v wire). I think this is the power cable you need, but it doesn't include the IPbus cable: [url=http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/part.asp?productNum=CDE6398]http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/par ... um=CDE6398[/url] Or, you can buy this cable, which is an IPbus cable with the po