andrew_

I hope that this isnt a gross violation of the rules, but I read through some google results and wanted to share some links that address the Android issue:

http://androidforums...-car-audio.html
- Confirmed on my z100bt with Droid Incredible.
- Failed miserably on my DroidX while playing Pandora over BT

http://forum.xda-dev...ad.php?t=557088 (Android on HTC Info)

Another thread addressing this: http://avic411.com/i...-13-yea-or-nay/

The general consensus seems to be that if you have an app launched which supports and handles the AVRCP commands, then you have some limited capability.

@Shortfuse Just read through the thread and how you went about patching the password deal. Well done and congrats, wish I would have thought of going that route. I can't help but think that it would have paid off if I would've paid more attention in assembly in college

Just contributing some information that I stumbled on while poking around:

The header of the NDATA.001 file is "MSWIN4.1". Upone further investigation, this appears to be a boot record of sorts. http://thestarman.pc...mbr/MSWIN41.htm

According to Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EXE, we're dealing with 16 bit DOS executables.

Not that this will help in the cracking process, but I stumbled on it anyway: The .rff and .image files are created with an application called "NaviStudio" http://cloudmade.com...cts/navi-studio. May help to mod in the future (?).

CARDINFO.cif contains what appears to be either random (unlikely) or some sort of alpha numeric hash or encryption of data. It reads #pioneer[hash] and that's it. If we can get the code for the sdcard this was taken from, that might provide some clue.

It might be a good route to contact one of the forums that specialize in cracking these types of hashes and security setups. But like was previously mentioned, we'll likely need many samples of the hash with original data in order to get that cracked.

I hope one of you brave souls will post a demo vid to outline what's been updated

"I'm returning this unit because the hack you don't support won't work" Love it.

I read about the opening of the connector on the mute wire being distorted by the removal process. That's the one thing I hadn't investigated (which just occurred to me). Later on today I'm going to pull it again and look at the opening on the connector (where the pin from the head unit makes contact - for those reading and lost) to see if it's misshapen. If it is, I'll try squeezing it slightly with some needle nose pliers. Perhaps that will do something miraculous.