My AVIC D3 was professionally installed in my 07 Scion TC. I did the bypass yestrday and it works fine. However I do not have my Bluetooth options any longer.

The connections are correct and were not changed.

However when I grounded the bypass wires, I grounded them to the Bluetooth ground (all 3 grounds were wired together), could this be the cause of the BTB failure?

I took voltimeter readings on the power connection for the BTB 200 and did not receive any voltage.

How can I fix this? Will I have to re-wire the power connection for my BTB? Please include details in what exactly I need to do if I have to re-wire it, I've never done anything like that before.

Thanks in advance, I feel like a bonehead for having this happen.

Make sure the power/ground/P-bus for the BTB didn't come loose when you were attaching the bypass wire. The bypass has nothing to do with the bluetooth so it has to be a wiring issue

My AVIC D3 was professionally installed in my 07 Scion TC. I did the bypass yestrday and it works fine. However I do not have my Bluetooth options any longer.

The connections are correct and were not changed.

However when I grounded the bypass wires, I grounded them to the Bluetooth ground (all 3 grounds were wired together), could this be the cause of the BTB failure?

I took voltimeter readings on the power connection for the BTB 200 and did not receive any voltage.

How can I fix this? Will I have to re-wire the power connection for my BTB? Please include details in what exactly I need to do if I have to re-wire it, I've never done anything like that before.

 

Thanks in advance, I feel like a bonehead for having this happen.

I suggest you check your IP-BUS connections to the BTB and the D3 deck. If the BTB option still does not come on the D3 check to make sure you didn't blow the in-line fuse to the BTB. And if that doesn't work, I suggest checking your BTB ground again and consider moving the grounding point if possible and away from the D3 bypass.

I'll go check the pins and make sure no pins were bent or broken off on the IPBUS wire.

Also, at one point, I had the parking break wire tapped into the BTB200 power wire. I removed that wire tap before I installed the bypass, do you think that could've broke the cable in some way?

Alright so the connections look good. I have the cable going from the BT Out on the BTB200 to the BT In on the Avic D3. There were no broken pins.

The fuse on the BTB200 power cable looks fine.

I wish they had a damn power indicator on the BTB200, how hard would a little light be?

I gotta lean towards it being the power to the BTB200, how can I fix this? Will I have to cut the current power wire and twist it together or something?

I'll go check the pins and make sure no pins were bent or broken off on the IPBUS wire.

 

Also, at one point, I had the parking break wire tapped into the BTB200 power wire. I removed that wire tap before I installed the bypass, do you think that could've broke the cable in some way?

Why would you have the parking brake tapped into the BTB power? Do you mean you had the BTB power tapped from the parking brake instead? If so, if you break the power connection from the parking brake to the BTB, the BTB no longer has any source of power.

Regardless, a quick fix would be to run a new power wire to the BTB. Either tap into the same power source as the yellow wire on your D3, directly to the battery, or to a fuze in the fuze box in the cabin that has constant power (make sure you use the in-line 3A fuze that came w/ the BTB). You don't want to connect to the parking brake power b/c that means your BTB will only get power when the parking brake is engaged and the electrical circuit is closed

I had the Parking Brake green wire and the BTB200 yellow wire tapped together. The BTB200 still had power from the 12V constant power yellow wire.

I had done that because I read if you tap your parking break wire into any wire that has a constant 12V then it always thinks the Parking brake is engaged, thus you can fool around with the nav settings and watch video. However it didn't work so I removed the wire tap.

The BTB200 is still capped into the stero power cable. The cap has the car stero yellow wire, avic d3 yellow wire, and BTB yellow wire all together.

I had the Parking Brake green wire and the BTB200 yellow wire tapped together. The BTB200 still had power from the 12V constant power yellow wire.

 

I had done that because I read if you tap your parking break wire into any wire that has a constant 12V then it always thinks the Parking brake is engaged, thus you can fool around with the nav settings and watch video. However it didn't work so I removed the wire tap.

 

The BTB200 is still capped into the stero power cable. The cap has the car stero yellow wire, avic d3 yellow wire, and BTB yellow wire all together.

Oh, that parking brake wire. Totally forgot about the green wire in the back of the D3.

Last thing to check: you have the Black connector on the IP-BUS cable connected to the BTB and the Blue connector on the IP-BUS cable to the back of the D3?

You can also try resetting the BTB. The manual says you're should reset it if:

This unit must be reset under the following

conditions:

-Prior to using this unit for the first time

after installation

-When this unit and the head unit are reconnected

-If the unit fails to operate properly

-When strange or incorrect messages appear

on the display

- If there appear to be problems with the operation

of the Hands-free Phoning function

And the steps to reset it is:

-Turn the ignition switch OFF

-Press RESET with a pen tip or other

pointed instrument.

Good Luck

Yes that is how I have my BTB set up. I've tried moving the cable to the other port but still no connection, so I moved it back. I've also tried resetting the BTB, resetting the AVIC, and also removing my car battery positive end and re attaching. Still doesn't work.

Now I'm getting an airbag warning that tells me to take my car to the dealership, lol. Just my luck.

Anyways, to rewire the power for the BTB what will I have to do? Will I have to strip the wires, twist them together, and cap them again?

Thanks for the help so far

Yes that is how I have my BTB set up. I've tried moving the cable to the other port but still no connection, so I moved it back. I've also tried resetting the BTB, resetting the AVIC, and also removing my car battery positive end and re attaching. Still doesn't work.

Now I'm getting an airbag warning that tells me to take my car to the dealership, lol. Just my luck.

 

Anyways, to rewire the power for the BTB what will I have to do? Will I have to strip the wires, twist them together, and cap them again?

 

Thanks for the help so far

When you say "cap" the wires together, you mean using either a butt connector or soldering the wires together, right?

If you have the 3 yellow wires (D3, BTB, car stereo yellow wire) all connected together with a solid connection (like soldering them together), the yellow wire running to to your BTB should be getting power if the D3 turns on. Same goes w/ the grounds: if the D3 and BTB grounds are connected together with a soild connection and the D3 can turn on, then the BTB in theory should be grounded properly.

The only other thing I can think of if checking the white plug on the BTB that contains the BTB ground and constant power. Check to see that the metal contacts for the yellow and black wire are fully inserted into the white connector for a good connection to the BTB.

The wires are securly fastened together. The cap looks like its been crimped and twisted. So it can't be that.

I did finally get a voltimeter and tested the yellow BTB200 wire. I took apart the fuse case and before the fuse I got a reading of close to 16V. After the fuse I did not recieve any kind of reading.

So thats gotta be the fuse right? I took out the fuse and it doesn't look like its damaged in anyway, but I'm going to go buy a new one just to test it out.

The actual little white power connection to the BTB is good as well, all connections are snug.

The wires are securly fastened together. The cap looks like its been crimped and twisted. So it can't be that.

I did finally get a voltimeter and tested the yellow BTB200 wire. I took apart the fuse case and before the fuse I got a reading of close to 16V. After the fuse I did not recieve any kind of reading.

So thats gotta be the fuse right? I took out the fuse and it doesn't look like its damaged in anyway, but I'm going to go buy a new one just to test it out.

 

The actual little white power connection to the BTB is good as well, all connections are snug.

Sounds like you're really getting power fed to the fuze area. I agree that you should check the fuze. Does your voltmeter have an ability to check continuity? If so, you should put one voltmeter lead on one end of the fuze and the other voltmeter on the other. If the fuze isn't blown, there should be continuity. Also, check for continuity between the fuze case and the metal connector in the white BTB plug the yellow wire from the fuze connects to. There should be continuity there as well.

Found out it was the fuse. I didn't realize what a blown fuse would look like until I saw some normal fuses.

So I bought some new 3Amp fuses and put one it, and everything worked just fine. Write this up as a stupid newbie mistake lol.

Thanks for all the help man.

Found out it was the fuse. I didn't realize what a blown fuse would look like until I saw some normal fuses.

So I bought some new 3Amp fuses and put one it, and everything worked just fine. Write this up as a stupid newbie mistake lol.

Thanks for all the help man.

yw, and this entire BTB issue just made you a better troubleshooter. I'm glad it was just a blown fuze.

God bless fuses. Such a cheap fix