i got a problem. jus installed an f700bt in an 06 stang with a shaker 500 system. all the connections are good, i only used the white rca for the adaptor (500 only uses white rca) and i also put on a 5v voltage regulator to cut out the popping sound upon start-up

-the popping sound is still there

-only when the car is in drive, the sound cuts in and out every couple seconds (sounds like a radio station when the signal goes in and out

and i have no idea what it could be. theres no shorts, and theres no badd connections. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

You got me stumped... but let me think.

First off is the regulator. If you picked it up at radio shack, make sure you got the 5v and not the 12v. They lived right beside each other in the drawer last time I was in a RS store. Did that myself one time.

Sub harness - the 8 pin connector w/ 2 rca's on it. There should also be 2 amp turn on wires. The only one used on the shaker 500 is the one closest to the clip on the harness. That 's the one you hooked up to the output of the regulator, right?

Check out the attached factory pinout and double check you wiring.

Hope it helps. *edit - the diagram is for the radio side, not the car side, so you should be able to compare this directly to the new wiring harness.

Oh, and just because it is shown on the diagram, doesn't mean it actually exists in the factory harness... like vss, illumination. You just have to check the harness.

I have a nice selection of service manual wiring diagrams if you need more info.

BTW, installed an F900BT thursday in my '05 with shaker 1000. Doing great, no problems at all. Everything seems to work as advertised. Haven't bypassed it.

s500-2005 wiring.pdf

ok this is weird....i switched out the regulator (it was a 5v deff.) and i put a 1000ohm resistor on it...no popping sound and the audio works flawlessly now... but i have no idea WHY that worked. to my knowledge, the shaker harness only sontrols the sub. so its safe to assume that the problem with the popping was the regulator, but that should never have affected the speakers themselves. if anyone has a logical reason for why this worked, please...enlighten me because i HATE not knowing why a solution worked. Bobsyouruncle, thanks for the input. and thanks in advance to anyone who can help out with this.

Might have been a bum regulator.

The factory amp enable signal is rated at 5V. If you put a multimeter on the amp harness with the factory head unit hooked up, you will only read about 4-4.5v. Also, the door subs are powered by a pair of amps that are so bad it should be a crime to call them that. They are extremely touchy.

That's why I replaced mine.

Might have been a bum regulator.

 

The factory amp enable signal is rated at 5V. If you put a multimeter on the amp harness with the factory head unit hooked up, you will only read about 4-4.5v. Also, the door subs are powered by a pair of amps that are so bad it should be a crime to call them that. They are extremely touchy.

That's why I replaced mine.

lol stupid shaker.... i kno it was the regulator. but at the same time, those amps are meant to only work the subs....so why were the speakers affected by sub wires? doesnt make sense to me and its killing me

Wait... all the speakers were popping? or just the subs?

If it was just the subs popping, okay. Regulator was the culprit.

As far as the other speakers , if they were just cutting out/muting, I think it could have still been the regulator.

My guess would be that the overvoltage on the turn on signal could have been almost shorting out(not really shorting, but internal resistance on amplifier integrated circuit could have been greatly reduced) the input signal on the factory amps. That signal in the head unit is in the same circuitry that feeds the internal amp on the head unit to drive the speakers. Electricy flows to the path of least resistance (factory amp) so less preamp signal volatage was getting to the built in amplifier in the stereo.

Again, just a guess. No offense, but I'm not about to hook those awful ffactory amps back up just to check it.

Wait... all the speakers were popping? or just the subs?

 

If it was just the subs popping, okay. Regulator was the culprit.

As far as the other speakers , if they were just cutting out/muting, I think it could have still been the regulator.

 

My guess would be that the overvoltage on the turn on signal could have been almost shorting out(not really shorting, but internal resistance on amplifier integrated circuit could have been greatly reduced) the input signal on the factory amps. That signal in the head unit is in the same circuitry that feeds the internal amp on the head unit to drive the speakers. Electricy flows to the path of least resistance (factory amp) so less preamp signal volatage was getting to the built in amplifier in the stereo.

 

Again, just a guess. No offense, but I'm not about to hook those awful ffactory amps back up just to check it.

makes sense. ill take it lol. i didnt even think of askin you that. luckily shes not an audio enthusiast and those amps are fine for her

thanks again for the input maybe now i can sleep tonight

luckily shes not an audio enthusiast and those amps are fine for her

thanks again for the input maybe now i can sleep tonight

She doesn't have to be... if it's an '06, those factory door subs should be starting to rattle like a BB in a coke can just any day now...

Annoying.

And as far as sleeping goes, You be sure to tell her you spent hours doing exhaustive research and finally came up with a solution, just for her. Because she's that special. Then have her make it up to you. you shouldn't have any trouble sleeping after that.

*Edit - You're welcome. Glad I can help. I may not know much, but I know my fords. My mustang in particular.

luckily shes not an audio enthusiast and those amps are fine for her

thanks again for the input maybe now i can sleep tonight

 

She doesn't have to be... if it's an '06, those factory door subs should be starting to rattle like a BB in a coke can just any day now...

Annoying.

 

And as far as sleeping goes, You be sure to tell her you spent hours doing exhaustive research and finally came up with a solution, just for her. Because she's that special. Then have her make it up to you. you shouldn't have any trouble sleeping after that.

 

*Edit - You're welcome. Glad I can help. I may not know much, but I know my fords. My mustang in particular.

LMFAO!!!!!! o man im so glad shes not on this forum thanks again man

I'm guessing that using a bad regulator might have caused some kind of feedback into the avic unit or something like that. But I guess it doesn't matter since it's all fixed now.

yeah your right, it really doesnt for this situation, but knowing why a problem happens and knowing why what you did fixes it can help troubleshoot any future problems for other cars

sounds like the regulator back fed voltage into the avic which in turn caused the internal amp to cut out. i have an 07 stang with the shaker 500. the door speakers are run directly off the head unit and 2 amps (located above the driver side kick panel) drive the door subs. ive actually been happy with the subs the way they are. the car is a year old..with 25000 miles on it and theyre still intact and sound good.

anyways, the internal amp will shut off if it detects a ground on a speaker lead, i guess with the f series, it would shut off and go into protect mode if it sees a problem with the amp turn on lead as well, since there is no fuse on it.