Hello all and thanks for a great forum
I just bought and installed the Avic Z1 with the Z3 software upgrade done.
When I power it up it reads 2/2008
Anyway the standard 2 wire short does not do the over ride for me
Whats next ? I love the unit and all its functions but really need the Nav to be able to be changed while driving.
All help appreciated very much
It works, you just did it wrong. Check the grounds and press the reset button.
It works, you just did it wrong. Check the grounds and press the reset button.
I really appreciate the reply, I did reset the unit afterwards, it was installed by pro so will have to go back (again) and ask, but I helped and am 99% sure he did the short 2 wires thing...
When it locked out @ 30mph he said it must have been the Z3 software and the fact that the z1 plug is different I was possibly out of luck ....
Question : are the maps the same as the Z3 with the imaged drive ? Someone told me his Z3 looked different on the screen than mine ?
Thanks again
If your installer DID do the bypass, he did it wrong. I have a Z2 with the Z3 drive and my bypass has been working fine for months.
If your installer DID do the bypass, he did it wrong. I have a Z2 with the Z3 drive and my bypass has been working fine for months.
So its just the 2 wire (short) that`ll do it, even though it has the newer software ? hummmm, 
Right.....there's very little else that would cause it to not work, and we've solved all those issues 
So... it's definitely the 2-wire. And seeing as you didn't do it yourself, it's DEFINITELY the 2-wire.
so the wires are shorted together as described here, and still it kicks out video over 30 or so mph..... Does it need to be toggled ? like the lights flashing mod ?
I am stumped here , thanks in advance
if you left it for your installer, how do you know he even relocated the mute wire?
if you left it for your installer, how do you know he even relocated the mute wire?
This is a good question,the answer is trust.....I trust he did the right thing, he has told me he did the "standard Z1 bypass"
Being it`s a Z1 unit with the Z3 software, he thought it may be different ?
What is exactly the usual mod with this situation?
Again thanks in advance
u take the mute wire from the connector and pull the it out of its slot, and relocate it into the slot directly across from it. then you ground that wire and the parking break wire. its obviously the mute wire tho, since it does work until ur in motion so either he didnt move it, or its not secured in the slot.
u take the mute wire from the connector and pull the it out of its slot, and relocate it into the slot directly across from it. then you ground that wire and the parking break wire. its obviously the mute wire tho, since it does work until ur in motion so either he didnt move it, or its not secured in the slot.
Hello
thanks for the reply, from what I was told the plug on the Z1 is different than the Z3, and this mod (wire move) is only on the Z3 ?
So even though its the Z1 the mute wire can/has to be moved ?
i have no idea about that, i mean they have the same bypass
Hyperite, is that true about the different plugs?
That doesn't sound right. The bypass is the same for all generations of the Z series. The hardware has never changed from Z1 to Z2, and on to Z3. It's all maps and software changes.
i have no idea about that, i mean they have the same bypass
Hyperite, is that true about the different plugs?
nope, same hardware and harnesses across all generations.
I have a June 06' Z1 upgraded with a garrettoomey Z3 HDD. The drive worked flawlessly, but I still got locked out of certain function at X mph. After I followed ducati's " For all units made since 07/06, or any unit updated with the Bluetooth Update CD" bypass a couple of hours ago, all lockouts are gone. Kinda nice not having to remember to flash my headlights.
Anyway, I tested the unit for a couple of miles (40-60 mph), and it works fine. Make sure the mute wire was pulled out of connector 1 and then reinserted into connector 2. Also, make sure it was inserted all the way into the proper location. If you tug on the wire, and the connector comes out, it isn't installed properly.
