Okay I think I got a really good Idea, So let me start from the installation beginning.

There are two very important cables witch all radios have the Yellow "Battery" cable and the Red "acc" cable.

Now the red cable only gets power when the key car is off and the key is on Acc or what ever.

The Yellow cable get power All the time "basically like running a cable stright to the battery"

So if you just wire the yellow and the red from the radio together to the Yellow only from the car "consent power" this allows you to wait for the load time without sitting around in the car wasting gas, and when you go to crank the car over "turn the key" the radio wont go black and restart. Also this way if your going to stop let say to get gas when you shut off the car and hope right back in after 30sec or fueling the radio wont have to restart.

Now the One DUMB thing THE 90BT ect DOES NOT HAVE AN OFF SWITCH.

"that I know of" so you will have to run a new switch to the power cable to actually turn off the radio

Well theres my Idea "im sure other people thought of this I am just putting it out there" I AM JUST TRYING TO HELP.

IF THERE IS REALLY A OFF SWITCH AND I AM DUMB FOR NOT FINDING IT LET ME KNOW.

Terrible idea.

yep basically...

When on that unit pulls some major current. Enough to run down a cars battery overnight if you left it on.

And what you are going through is basically doing the same exact thing the unit does anyway.

The yellow wire which has power all the time is where the unit pulls ALL it's power from. The red wire turning on and off is the sensor to tell the unit to turn on and off.

The unit has no on and off switch cause it's using the car's ignition automatically.

If you took the red wire and put a toggle switch between the red wire on the radio and the constant power (yellow) you basically made a power switch.

The problem is if you ever left your radio on overnight you would come out to a dead battery.

so what are you looking for a delay so it takes a minute to shut off? Or something manual you can control?

It's an odd idea. And probably more trouble than it's worth. But you can do all sorts of delays or whatever. I measured the current draw of the red wire about 2 years ago, 100mA seems to stick in my mind. 2A on the yellow.

Yes the boot up is not instant but I don't think it's worth the trouble of what you are describing.

U have me all wrong, I have had my 90bt this way for a while and I love it. Heres how I have it red and yellow from the radio wired to a content from the car "12v" and in between that I have a switch so every time I go in the car all i do is turn on the switch and the radio starts, every time I leave I switch it off.

Now the benefits are this. Let say I am just going to step out for 1min from my car instead of having to have the radio turn all the way off I just turn off the screen but leave the radio on. this way when I come back in the car I don't wait for the 3min load time.

As for the power thing "when I know I am going to be out of the car for more then 5 min I just switch off the radio " its not hard. Also I don't think the radio itself pulls that much power I have mine on some times for a good 3hr when I sit in there with my friends or a girl talking. I am sure if u left it on over night then yea but How can u look at that radio and forget to shut it off it a big screen and lights up bright.

Any way I dono, I love it and I have a buddy that also has a 90bt and he hates me because he wants his the same way. "I dono I guess you have to actually see it working the say o hey thats cool"

Maybe I will make a video and post it

No I understood. You can do the same thing with an Avic. Just hook the yellow wire permanently to 12V that doesn't shut off and put a toggle switch on the red wire to the same point. and it will do just what you describe.

But the avic pulls a lot of power. I had mine on for 7 hours while I was working outside (cleaning, washing, waxing) in a rather new Lincoln Aviator and it killed my battery in that time.

Yah, you can do what you describe, but for me the convenience of having it come on automatically when I start the car does not outweigh the 30 seconds of no music for the occasional time I'm just out of the car for a minute.

LOL wow, I just figured something out that I messed up on. "I posted this under the wrong thing........" This is for a F-Series.... lol"

This is wy this probibly is really dumb to you.

LOL the radio I have is really kissk A__ the only thing is "im not kidding it takes 2 min something sec to boot up every time u turn off the car." Check it out under the F-series threads

Sorry

U have me all wrong, I have had my90bt this way for a while and I love it.

LOL wow, I just figured something out that I messed up on. "I posted this under the wrong thing........" This is for a F-Series.... lol"

So do you have an F-series or not?

Sorry if this is in the wrong forum, Here’s my situation: I go to the train station and wait for my wife. During that time I shut the engine off. When I go from acc to actually start the engine back up I have to wait for the dam thing to load again. I was thinking of putting a capacitor and a 1 way diode thingy between the ground and the acc wire to keep the radio on just long enough to start the car so I don't have to wait out the whole process again. This seems logical to me what do you guys think?

I think the boot sequence is too long, particularly when you starting the engine and immediately need the reverse camera.

I have a big capacitor and a diode on the red ACC wire. When i turn off the ACC the F900BT stays on for 10 sec. Then I have time to turn it back on if I erroneous turn the key to far to the left.

But the capacitor is not enough to hold the system up and running during engine start (on my 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe anyway). This I solved by a little gel battery and a 1 way diode on the +12V always on wire. It works nice.

There is a reason that radios (and a ton of other factory systems) lose power during cranking. The starter motor draws a ton of power from the battery. Having any extra drain on the system can severely effect a battery's life span, as well as potentially shortening the life of starter components. The other issue of course is that in such situations where the starter has to struggle to begin with (extreme cold, for example), accessory draw may leave the starter motor without enough current to actually start the car.

In a nutshell, dont do this without another battery as a backup for the radio.

....... accessory draw may leave the starter motor without enough current to actually start the car.

Surely thats tosh?

The biggest current draw on any vehicle is the starter motor: the draw from the battery by an Avic unit is negligible during start-up. This is why the unit switches off - the starter draws all of the battery supply so the power to the Avic drops significantly, acting in the same way as turning off the ignition. Start your car with the headlights on - you'll see my point........

....... accessory draw may leave the starter motor without enough current to actually start the car.

Surely thats tosh?

The biggest current draw on any vehicle is the starter motor: the draw from the battery by an Avic unit is negligible during start-up. This is why the unit switches off - the starter draws all of the battery supply so the power to the Avic drops significantly, acting in the same way as turning off the ignition. Start your car with the headlights on - you'll see my point........

....... accessory draw may leave the starter motor without enough current to actually start the car.

Surely thats tosh?

The biggest current draw on any vehicle is the starter motor: the draw from the battery by an Avic unit is negligible during start-up. This is why the unit switches off - the starter draws all of the battery supply so the power to the Avic drops significantly, acting in the same way as turning off the ignition. Start your car with the headlights on - you'll see my point........

There is a reason that radios (and a ton of other factory systems) lose power during cranking. The starter motor draws a ton of power from the battery. Having any extra drain on the system can severely effect a battery's life span, as well as potentially shortening the life of starter components. The other issue of course is that in such situations where the starter has to struggle to begin with (extreme cold, for example), accessory draw may leave the starter motor without enough current to actually start the car.

 

In a nutshell, dont do this without another battery as a backup for the radio.

B.S.

The starter draws hundreds of amps. Another five, ten, or even twenty amps isn't going to make a difference. My car has automatic headlights, and even they come on and stay on while starting the car. The reason that the accessories, including the radio, are usually switched off while starting is that they may not be able to operate correctly at the lower voltage that is available while the starter is pulling so much current.

Hmmm I didn't even think about this until I got the unit and went "how do you turn it off?". On my CarPC setup I had a master switch that was controlling startup/shutdown even though I had a PSU that could do that for me but sometimes I just didn't want it to be on when ignition was on.

This is super easy to implement and also as easy to remove if I decide it was not necessary.