Hey im in a little jam,
05 jeep liberty
avic-n3
kicker amp,subs and spl cap.

installed everything at once, and everything on the avic-n3
is running and playing, but no audio whats so ever.
the amps not turning on either, as well as the capacitor.

any ideas.... Thanks so much,

ps. the options to adjust the bass,spl,and treble are disabled as well.
and i grounded the green parking brake, did not hook up the speed sensor wire or the reverse wire and i fliped the switch on the back of the head unit.

:wink: thanks for all your help

that was my problem (remote wire), when i took the blue/white wire remote from the n3 i hooked it up to the remote wire to the amp and thats it (which worked for my past two cars), completely disreguarding the blue/white on the factory harness.

but now i have the factory speakers working with NO Subs!
=(

when i hooked up the battery for the first time after correcting the remote.
The capacitor light up for the first time after I charged it. it read 9.4 - 10.1 never reached 12+volts (the N-3 on display says its geting 13.4volts).

And so now the subs are not playing audio.
You think the cap is blown?
Fuses are good.
I need to double check the remote line to the amp
because i had to rig the connection with tap on the terminal, because they shipped me one with outa screw for the hole.

One other thing. I mounted the ground wire (three spots) on a seat bracket that has a bolt and painted black and then under the carpet near the bolt which is painted the jeep color, and then on a seat stand, that fold down a little bit when the seat folds down this is connected to the bottom of jeep.

Is this ground good enough ?


Thanks so much, im so close to completing this installation =)

any answers for these folks?

As far as I'm aware, you need to ground to an unpainted surface.

I dunno why your subs aren't working... But i'm not a car audio expert.

couple things, yes the amps need to be to a clean solid ground, not a painted surface. so grab a piece of sos pad or steel wool or sand paper and start rubbing.

As far as the cap is concerned, it doesnt sound like you have wired it up correctly since you feel the cap 'blowing' could prevent the amp from coming on. What I mean is, the cap should be wired PARALLEL not series. I am just guessing you wired it in series cuz of your comment that it could some how prevent the amp coming on if it was not functioning. In essence you should be able to take the cap out of the circuit and connect the wires that are connected to it the same way and the amp should come on. Oh and honestly, even a 1 F cap is probably not going to do much for you in your application.

Also, it seems that you didnt charge the cap properly the first time. You were sure as hell not suppose to connect it and just turn it on like that. I have never seen a cap designed for that type of initial charge. Every cap I have seen for the car requires you to use a resistor and slowly charge it and to charge if for some time.. not instant like you did. So check your instruction manual to see, but that shouldnt have cause the amp to not turn on.

Check your fuses on the amp, you could temp check the remote by jumping a wire from the + to the remote on the amp, that will tell you if the amp is getting power and if the remote is good, if the amp lights up but no sound, then maybe rca's or sub out, or or... we will cross that bridge when we get to it.