I hope some one can help me with this one. I notice that when I crank my car, the battery source will dip from +12V to as low as +9.2V, before recovering to +12V. As a consequence the radio will reboot during the +9.2V dip. I looked up the acceptable voltage range for the AVIC-F90BT and it turns out to be +10.8V / +15.1V. So this explains the observation.

Has anyone else had a similar experience, and if so what did you do to correct it? I'm thinking of installing a capacitor.

Thanking you in advance, and begging your forgiveness if this topic has already been covered, as I was unsuccessful in finding a thread that addressed this topic.

Sounds to me like you need a new battery

So it is resetting and bringing up the antitheft password screen?

Thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking the same thing, except for the fact that the car cranks up just fine, with no hesitation.

I was leaning more towards the F90BT and its low voltage tolerance of +10.8V.

So it is resetting and bringing up the antitheft password screen?

No it doesn't bring on the antitheft password screen. What actually happens is that I will turn my ignitation key switch to the position just before 'ON' and the radio will begin to boot-up. When I finally take the next step and turn the key to the on position (CRANK) the radio reboots. Normally this isn't a problem, except for the long boot up times of the F90BT, I don't want to have to go through it twice.

So it is resetting and bringing up the antitheft password screen?

 

No it doesn't bring on the antitheft password screen. What actually happens is that I will turn my ignitation key switch to the position just before 'ON' and the radio will begin to boot-up. When I finally take the next step and turn the key to the on position (CRANK) the radio reboots. Normally this isn't a problem, except for the long boot up times of the F90BT, I don't want to have to go through it twice.

Yes, I felt the same way. I added some diodes, a couple of transistors, a few resistors, and a 10 cell NiCd battery pack and no longer have any problem. If your good with electronics, it is a very reasonable solution. I think that it may also help to prevent the random FLASH corruptions that some have experienced.

Don't get a new car battery. Voltage drops to 9V are not unusual during starting of a car. A new battery might help for a few months, but after that you are back to the issue again. Some high end cars avoid the problem by having a separate battery and alternator for the entertainment systems.

Joegr,

Thanks very much. I'll give this a try today and let everyone know the results.

This topic has been covered before then. There are ways to work around it.

My suggestion was to run the AVIC red wire wire to your ignition instead of accessory. That wire will stay charged during the crank cycle.

This topic has been covered before then. There are ways to work around it.

 

My suggestion was to run the AVIC red wire wire to your ignition instead of accessory. That wire will stay charged during the crank cycle.

Yes, but if the voltage drops below 10V, it still won't work.

The constant 12 will dip on startup thats normal because of the current draw of the starter. But I believe the problem is that the ACC circuit drops to zero during startup. This is on purpose I believe it is to prevent damaging voltage spikes during startup. Every car radio should do this, that is also why all of the lights turn off during startup. There are ways to bypass this but could eventually cause damage to the radio. I'm sure many people have bypassed the problem and their radios still work fine, but I wouldn't suggest it.

The constant 12 will dip on startup thats normal because of the current draw of the starter. But I believe the problem is that the ACC circuit drops to zero during startup. This is on purpose I believe it is to prevent damaging voltage spikes during startup. Every car radio should do this, that is also why all of the lights turn off during startup. There are ways to bypass this but could eventually cause damage to the radio. I'm sure many people have bypassed the problem and their radios still work fine, but I wouldn't suggest it.

That's true of many, but not all cars. Mine isn't that way. Even the headlights come on (at night) and stay on while starting the car. I verified, using variable power supplies that the AVIC drops if either the constant power or the switched power lead goes to 10V or less. The factory head unit and amps had no problem with this, but the AVIC did. I came up with a way around it. I assure you that no damage will be done.

The constant 12 will dip on startup thats normal because of the current draw of the starter. But I believe the problem is that the ACC circuit drops to zero during startup. This is on purpose I believe it is to prevent damaging voltage spikes during startup. Every car radio should do this, that is also why all of the lights turn off during startup. There are ways to bypass this but could eventually cause damage to the radio. I'm sure many people have bypassed the problem and their radios still work fine, but I wouldn't suggest it.

 

That's true of many, but not all cars. Mine isn't that way. Even the headlights come on (at night) and stay on while starting the car. I verified, using variable power supplies that the AVIC drops if either the constant power or the switched power lead goes to 10V or less. The factory head unit and amps had no problem with this, but the AVIC did. I came up with a way around it. I assure you that no damage will be done.

I observed the same thing. Whether ACC dipped or the constant 12V dipped the AVIC would reboot itself. My factory unit never did, but I assumed that was because it was more forgiving with the lower voltages.

I know that the following is not exactly like the problem above but maybe I can get some help.

After my car stands overnight I try to start the car and the unit starts up like normal with the splash screen and the button and knob illumination lights up and then after about 2 seconds the the button and knob illumination goes dead and then in another 10 seconds the screen goes blank.

If I drive the car to the corner of my street and shut the car off and restart it the unit boots up normally.

After parking the car for a little while and I try to start the car the splash screen and the button and knob illumination lights up and then after 5 seconds it goes dead.

If I just but the key in the ACC position the unit will boot normally all the time.

I am thinking it might be a battery problem? It may not be getting the correct voltage after initial start. But when the Alternator starts working everything is OK.

No bypass no MODS installed. virgin unit with 2.0 installed.

Need help do not want to pull the unit and send it back to Pioneer

Any comments.

I know that the following is not exactly like the problem above but maybe I can get some help.

 

After my car stands overnight I try to start the car and the unit starts up like normal with the splash screen and the button and knob illumination lights up and then after about 2 seconds the the button and knob illumination goes dead and then in another 10 seconds the screen goes blank.

 

If I drive the car to the corner of my street and shut the car off and restart it the unit boots up normally.

 

After parking the car for a little while and I try to start the car the splash screen and the button and knob illumination lights up and then after 5 seconds it goes dead.

 

If I just but the key in the ACC position the unit will boot normally all the time.

 

I am thinking it might be a battery problem? It may not be getting the correct voltage after initial start. But when the Alternator starts working everything is OK.

 

No bypass no MODS installed. virgin unit with 2.0 installed.

 

Need help do not want to pull the unit and send it back to Pioneer

Any comments.

It sounds like your alternator. Do you have problems starting up your car and therefore in need of a jump sometimes?

It's also possible you have a wiring issue going on that doesn't show up until you start driving, causing the wire to vibrate out of place. This is a wild shot, but worth exploring if all else fails.

Does your battery charge lamp on your dashboard come on?

I do not have any trouble starting the car.

But, last weekend when I was going through the settings on the unit and had the key in ACC position for about 45 minutes to an hour I could not start the car and had to jump it. After that happened I started to have this boot problem.

The battery light does not go on.

If it was not for the fact that, when I have the key in the ACC position the unit works normally I would think the battery or the alternator is bad.

Also why does it happen only when the car stands still and off for a time period but works after the car is moved a short distance?

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I do not have any trouble starting the car.

 

But, last weekend when I was going through the settings on the unit and had the key in ACC position for about 45 minutes to an hour I could not start the car and had to jump it. After that happened I started to have this boot problem.

 

The battery light does not go on.

 

If it was not for the fact that, when I have the key in the ACC position the unit works normally I would think the battery or the alternator is bad.

 

Also why does it happen only when the car stands still and off for a time period but works after the car is moved a short distance?

 

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your battery should hold up for longer than an hour with the radio on. I strongly suspect that you do need a new battery. How old is your battery? Get the biggest one you can that fits your battery compartment.

I do not have any trouble starting the car.

 

But, last weekend when I was going through the settings on the unit and had the key in ACC position for about 45 minutes to an hour I could not start the car and had to jump it. After that happened I started to have this boot problem.

 

The battery light does not go on.

 

If it was not for the fact that, when I have the key in the ACC position the unit works normally I would think the battery or the alternator is bad.

 

Also why does it happen only when the car stands still and off for a time period but works after the car is moved a short distance?

 

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Okay, the nice thing about your problem is that it is repeatable. I would first start by isolating the problem. Is it something wrong with your power system or your radio? If it is a problem with your radio then you can send it back. If it is a problem with your power system, lets say your battery then you can replace that.

So, to isolate the problem, I would connect a voltmeter to the ACC or the Battery constant (+12V) that goes into your radio. I would first start off with the Battery constant (+12V). Jump in your car and begin driving, when the problem occurs, look at your voltmeter and see if the voltage drops below an acceptable level. For the AVIC, that acceptable level would be +10.8V. If it doesn't drop below an acceptable level then repeat procedure, this time for the ACC. If you don't observe significant voltage drop then the problem must be a defective radio and you should be able to get it replace under warranty. If it is the ACC/+12V then you know you either have a problem with your battery or alternator. If you suspect your battery or alternator take your vehicle to the nearest Autozone where they will test your battery/alternator for free and determine if you need a new one. I hope this helps and good luck.

Problem is solved. I had the battery checked and it was bad. Replaced battery and ererything is fine. Now I have to go through all the settings and change where needed. 411 is great.

Problem is solved. I had the battery checked and it was bad. Replaced battery and ererything is fine. Now I have to go through all the settings and change where needed. 411 is great.

Good for you !!!

crap, maybe i should check my battery before i send my 90bt in for service.....ive had the same problem but nothing i do gets the 90bt to boot up itll just shut down.....guess ill have the battery tested and maybe throw the unit back in the car.........damn you avic411 damn you......

I have the same issue, but I have two batts (F-250 diesel) So, two bad batts?

If your car is more then two years old and is used every day I do not care how many batteries you have it could happen. Especially if your HU is working and then one day, all of a sudden, it goes to blank screen when starting your car. Another indication is after you experience the blank screen and then you drive your car awhile and then restart your car and the HD unit works. Believe it, I saw it with my own eyes.

Mine does the same thing! I have a 2008 Civic Si and it always shuts off the radio when I crank the engine, the stock radio would do the same... I don't think its the battery because its a fairly new car... however the battery is small.