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Damaged D1 ... Superglue? [Pics Inside]

By toop · Oct 16, 2006in General💬 14 posts👁️ 2,013 views
Posted Oct 16, 2006 · 23:31 UTC#1
Plastic cracked...traded someone online....cracked during shipping. Looks like superglue will do it...what do you think?

Also...if anyone has any idea...where can I tap into the Car Speed Signal Input and Reverse Gear Input?

Also, where do I find the parking brake wires to ground it (to bypass the motion lock)?

I drive an 06 VW Jetta.

Just a general area to look would be helpful...thanks!

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Posted Oct 16, 2006 · 23:53 UTC#2
Don't know about the superglue or the VSS/Reverse Gear Wire,


But I can tell you that you don't need to know where the parking brake wire is. Just ground the parking brake wire and the necessary pin (search the D1/2 forum) at the wiring harness. It doesn't need to be connected.
Posted Oct 16, 2006 · 23:56 UTC#3
Yeah, super glue should work, but it'll also leave a hazy white crust after it dries.

I think the face is probably made of ABS plastic? I'm pretty anal so I would probably use some painters tape to mask off the LCD. Then I'd use a small hobby type paint brush to very carefully apply Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or pure Acetone (not the girly stuff with moisturizers) to the to break. Press and hold. When it dries, it should be very strong with no white crusty haze around it. MEK and acetone are solvents to ABS and as such can be used as a very strong solvent weld. If you try it, it's very important that the solvent doesn't make contact with the touchpanel since the touchpanel film is made of plastic.
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 00:29 UTC#4
Yeah that is the only thing I was worried about....hmmm white haze doesn't sound good to me. Where can I get some of that MEK or Acetone? Would CA glue work as well?

Also...if I do glue it, should I put the button in place first, then glue the piece together? I don't know if I'll be able to snap the button in AFTER I glue the corner...
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 00:49 UTC#5
I would say that you should apply the solvent/glue, put the button in, and then push the break closed.

I wouldn't think that the button will be able to be put back in after the break is fixed otherwise the button will fall out of everyones D2.
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 00:55 UTC#6
Now that I think of it...that was a dumb question lol. Aright gonna hit the stores looking for some kind of glue...
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 01:14 UTC#7
Lol :lol:
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 01:28 UTC#8
I know for sure you can get acetone and MEK at hardware and home improvement stores. I got a quart of MEK from Lowes for about $8.
My wife told me Wal-Mart has acetone, $2 for 16oz. When you're done with it, you can give it to your gf/wife because that's what they use to remove fingernail polish. :wink: Make sure it's pure though, a lot of nail polish remover has extra moisturizers, gelatin, fragrance, and other stuff in it. Probably not good for solvent welding with all that extra stuff.

You have to be very careful with solvents though. If it should happen to drip any place you don't want it, it'll ruin the finish.

Solvent welding has no glue. Instead of the glue holding the 2 ends together, solvent welding actually chemically welds the ends together.
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 02:46 UTC#9
Hmm...so it won't really "dry" if I just put it on the ends of the break....only until I put the two ends together?

Interesting stuff...
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 03:15 UTC#10
On the side note...Just ordered a cage from pioneer for a whopping $30 shipped.....anyone know where I can get a trim piece?
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 11:12 UTC#11
This trim piece can probably ordered from Pioneer also.
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 13:22 UTC#12
toop said:
Hmm...so it won't really "dry" if I just put it on the ends of the break....only until I put the two ends together?


Actually it does dry pretty quickly, in a matter of seconds, so you want to be pretty quick as soon as you dip the small paintbrush into it. The joint will also hold together as soon as it dries, but since it softens the plastic, I'd wait overnight before using it.

If you can find some, get some scrap pieces of ABS plastic and play around with it, it's pretty cool. The unused pieces from an installation kit should work for practice. I use solvent welding for custom fabrication. It's nice because I don't have to worry about it cracking or seperating like Bondo or fiberglass could.

Here's the trim ring, it's kind of pricey. Probably looking at $20 shipped. Ebay might be cheaper, but sometimes not!
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/par ... um=CNS8298
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 21:02 UTC#13
I'm not an engineer, but isnt the caustic chemicals in krazy glue pretty harmful for circuit boards? I know the plastic piece and the glue doesnt touch the circuit board underneath, but i was under the assumption that the invisible fumes created by the aging caustic chemicals in superglue is detrimental to circuit boards!
Posted Oct 17, 2006 · 21:19 UTC#14
Krazy/Super Glue is cyanoacrylate. I don't think it hurts circuit boards since they use it to tack parts and wires down on circuit boards.
http://www.intek-uk.com/instant.htm

The fumes do go everywhere and creates a build-up of a white crusty substance though. That can't be good for connectors or anything where good electrical contact is required. It'll also make any fingerprints near the glued area show up in crusty white too.