I'm re-adding my Avic-D3 setup to my new car and am going over the wiring instructions but I seem to remember that I wired the BT unit to constant 12V and it drained my battery over 4 days . . . I changed it to 12V ACC and it was fine . . .

What bothers me is that the installation warns against installing on a car without an ACC position on the ignition. My new vehicle has keyless start and has no ACC in the startup sequence.

Is this an actual concern? If so, what's the solution, a pulse timer?

Thanks guys.

-Ernie

what car doesn't have acc?

2009 Mazda 6 GTi --- I assume anything else with keyless start would too (Corvettes, Porsche etc.).

I *CAN* enable ACC easily since I drive a 6MT so I can just hit the button without the clutch in. The A/T drivers have to request it be programmed, so you have to hit the button repeatedly to turn it on, even when you don't want ACC.

-Ernie

never seen a car without ACC, I have a Infiniti G35 A/T with a pushbutton start also and i just hit the button once to get ACC, then twice for ON/IGN. the BTB200 has the power plug with ground(black) and Constant(yellow), the yellow need to be hooked to constant for "memory" on the unit. the unit is actually turned on/off by the radio's p-bus connection. if you hook the yellow to ACC or IGN you will loose all your settings every time you turn off key.

CONSTANT wire is--On vehicles with push-button start, this wire is red/blue at the relay block, 6 pin plug, pin E. The relay block is under the driver dash, around the steering column.

ACC wire is--On vehicles with push-button start, this wire is pink/yellow at the relay block, 6 pin plug, pin F. The relay block is under the driver dash, around the steering column.

IGNITION wire is--On vehicles with push-button start, this wire is pink/blue (+) at the relay block, 6 pin plug, pin B. The relay block is under the driver dash, around the steering column.

Hrm; my best guess is that it probably had some residual memory for linkage because I'd only lose the phone pairing rarely. Considering my last vehicle didn't go longer than 12hrs at a time without being driven, that's probably the best explanation.

I'll sub it to 12V (constant) and cross my fingers that it's not a leech

Thanks for the reality check

-Ernie

i have one of these units i got off the bay myself

i have a 2003 silverado SS, however, i dont have a power cable.

does this unit get power from the IPBus cable? if not, does anyone know where u can buy the 3 pin pioneer power cable??

It does NOT draw power through the IP-Bus cable, and I'd guess Pioneer would be the best place to find a replacement power cable/harness.

id order it from them if i could find a part number

I'm sure an email to Pioneer tech support would take care of that.

NVM: Here you go...you're welcome

http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/mod ... =CD-BTB200

P/N CDE8158 - POWER CORD ASSY - In stock? YES - $17.95

I'm sure an email to Pioneer tech support would take care of that.

 

NVM: Here you go...you're welcome

 

http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/mod ... =CD-BTB200

 

P/N CDE8158 - POWER CORD ASSY - In stock? YES - $17.95

dude, that rocks! thanks

no problem

ok my next question is WHERE do i tap in for the constant 12v and get ground?

2003 silverado SS

Did you buy a chime adapter or generic wiring harness for the HU? That gets you w/e you need to tap into. Just find the constant power line and tap into that for the BT unit, and pick a grounding point, whether it be one on the truck, or tapping into the black ground wire on the AVIC harness.

As I mentioned, I tapped the XM/BT wiring harnesses into the AVIC harness...not the best way to do it but no problems so far. (Pretty sure...)...these units pull so little power that running them through the AVIC harness is no big deal...worst case scenario, it blows the fuse and you find another source. Hasn't happened yet