Did my install over the weekend into a 2006 Freestyle, along with an amplified underseat sub, dual headrest moniros, Sirius, HD Radio, C2R-FRD1 vehcile adapter, SWI_PS interface and MSN Direct ($100 for hardware plus $30 for 2 years of service is not bad). Everything went well, except for the reverse signal.

The C2R-FRD1 instructions said the green wire was the reverse signal output, however, the receiver does not see the signal coming from it. Here are my theories on what's wrong:

1. The signal is there, but not in a form the Z110BT can use.

2. The signal is there, but the resitor in the "you must only use this extenstion" cord that came with the receiver is over attenuating, as the signal is already at the right voltage before the resistor.

3. My specific vehicle does not send a reverse signal through the CANBUS, therefore, there's no signal at all.

If it's 1 or 3, then I'll need to rewire directly to the reverse light wire. If it's #2, then I just need to remove the resistore. I'm going to call PAC and see if they know, unless one of y'all can advise sooner.

The camera works fine when I manually select it, just does not come on in reverse mode.

WARNING, to those that have not already done this. DO NOT select "Ground" instead of "Battery" in the camea setup. If you do so, the reverse camera image will be turned on from the moment you power up the receiver and none of the reset to defualt tricks work. The only way to get rid of the reverse camera image is to cut the harness and connect the reverse senor lead to +12V, this will remove the image and let you change the setting back to battery. I was scared for a bit when I changed this last nght not realizing what I had done.

Thanks!

I just installed this weekend as well into a 2006 explorer with the same PAC adapter. I wired the reverse output from the PAC directly to the headunit and it worked just fine. I would imagine the CANBUS in your car is nearly identical. One problem I have run into though is in using the factory sub via the PAC interface. If you turn the volume up slightly where it gets loud the AVIC shuts down and restarts. I'm starting to wonder if there's some protection mechanism in the factory amp that sends a signal on the CANBUS to shut the radio down to prevent damage. I'm sure the factory nav deck had no where near the amount of preamp power going to the factory amp. For now I turned the subwoofer level down a ways until I can spend a little time to take the deck back out and troubleshoot. I plan on checking to see if the switched 12v wire goes dead when the restart occurs.

I just installed this weekend as well into a 2006 explorer with the same PAC adapter. I wired the reverse output from the PAC directly to the headunit and it worked just fine. I would imagine the CANBUS in your car is nearly identical. One problem I have run into though is in using the factory sub via the PAC interface. If you turn the volume up slightly where it gets loud the AVIC shuts down and restarts. I'm starting to wonder if there's some protection mechanism in the factory amp that sends a signal on the CANBUS to shut the radio down to prevent damage. I'm sure the factory nav deck had no where near the amount of preamp power going to the factory amp. For now I turned the subwoofer level down a ways until I can spend a little time to take the deck back out and troubleshoot. I plan on checking to see if the switched 12v wire goes dead when the restart occurs.

So directly to the receiver without the special lead that pioneer packaged with the receiver? I'll give it a try.

AS far as your sub goes. I read that the ford OEM sub amps use a differential input instead of a +/ground input for the subs. The PAC ground loop isolaters are supposed to correct this problem, you should give it a try, their cheap, like $10-$15.

WARNING, to those that have not already done this. DO NOT select "Ground" instead of "Battery" in the camea setup. If you do so, the reverse camera image will be turned on from the moment you power up the receiver and none of the reset to defualt tricks work. The only way to get rid of the reverse camera image is to cut the harness and connect the reverse senor lead to +12V, this will remove the image and let you change the setting back to battery. I was scared for a bit when I changed this last nght not realizing what I had done.

Thanks!

I hope i'm doing this reply thing right.

I am curious when you say " to get rid of the image" you mean to make the image go away as when you shift out of reverse?

The second question is what camara did you go with.

So directly to the receiver without the special lead that pioneer packaged with the receiver? I'll give it a try.

 

AS far as your sub goes. I read that the ford OEM sub amps use a differential input instead of a +/ground input for the subs. The PAC ground loop isolaters are supposed to correct this problem, you should give it a try, their cheap, like $10-$15.

Yeah just directly to the output on the C2R module. I wasn't able to easily crack the black inline holder open on that wire but my guess would be that it's just a fuse since the wire is intended to carry positive voltage for a distance. I would check for voltage on the reverse output wire directly from the C2R to make sure that it is actually providing it before digging into anything else too deep.

Thanks for the tip about the isolator. I read the differential input statement about the RSE (rear seat entertainment) and it sounded like it was in reference to connecting the RSE output to connect to an A/V input on the headunit. I'm not sure that it would do anything in this scenario but will keep it in mind.

Thanks for the tip about the isolator. I read the differential input statement about the RSE (rear seat entertainment) and it sounded like it was in reference to connecting the RSE output to connect to an A/V input on the headunit. I'm not sure that it would do anything in this scenario but will keep it in mind.

You're probably right, that probably was reference to the RSE and not the sub.

As far as my reverse wire issue, I confirmed that my C2R-FRD1 was not sending a reverse signal through its green lead, I tested it with my voltometer and nothing no matter what position the shift lever was in. I guess the CANBUS in my praticular model does not provide reverse information, so the C2R-FRD1 cannot get it.

Sooo, I took 10 minutes to read a wiring diagram, found where the reverse light leads come out of the fuse box, tapped into them, confirmed function with my voltometer, and hooked them to the receiver, now it works! Then I flipped my camera over (Cheapo Pyle camera mounted on my license plate frame with theft detterant screws), and I now have a properly oriented image that comes on when I'm in reverse.

I really enjoyed playing with my new toy today, and my kids LOVED the headrest monitors. Speaking of which, I've found that the generic divx file in CloneDVD Mobile will create files that are seen as DivX by the receiver when on disc, and as mpg4 avi when on SD (with bandwidth limitations for SD playback). What's great is I already have nearly 100 of my DVDs already ripped to this generic divx format (ony a dozen or so that are kid-friendly, though) so I don't have to do a re-encode on them!