Everybody:

I notice a LOT of heartbreak and pain surrounding all this cutting-out-and-moving of mute wires for the AVIC harness bypassing.

Has anybody simply tried buying some pre-crimped, 22-gauge electronics wire with female sockets already placed on the ends and just inserted them into the connector(s) for the various X- and F-series mute-wire moving you're all doing???

Why all this cutting-and-moving of mute wires? I think they sell pre-crimped wires with exactly the types of pins/sockets you're looking for that can be inserted into this type and size of harness...for like $10 for 50 wires.

For example: Would these work...

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2024

UPDATE: I just received a package of these pre-crimped wires, and they look like the right wires to buy to simply plug into the vacant harness spots to do the bypasses for AVIC X-series, rather than cutting up the harnesses with razor blades like everyone is doing.

It's important to note that you have to take care to use the correct side of the connector.

The connectors themselves are slightly smaller in width than the Pioneer ones, but I think they would click into the harnesses correctly. Haven't tried it yet.

Also, be aware that the LONGER lengths are the ones that come in 22 gauge wire, which is what Pioneer appears to have used in the harnesses. The shorter ones are only 26 gague (thin).

Anyone have any idea if there are other sources of pre-crimped terminal wires like this? Perhaps with slightly larger connectors?

Regards,

JD

I sure hope so.. I wish I would have thought of that! All your really doing is grounding that pin anyway if I'm not mistaken, correct?

I sure hope so.. I wish I would have thought of that! All your really doing is grounding that pin anyway if I'm not mistaken, correct?

I've done some more research, and they DEFINITELY sell wires of various gauge with the right pins/sockets on them for these Pioneer harnesses.

Just find an expert local electronics or robotics hobby shop and tell them you're looking for electronics wire that has pre-crimped pins/sockets/terminals on them for Molex connectors.

The correct wire gauge is about 22 AWG and the pin/socket size is whatever the next size up from 0.1" would be...

...but I think even the the 0.1" pin width ones I linked to in the original post would probably snap into the vacant positions on these Pioneer harnesses just fine (haven't tried it, since my buddy's X920 install is done and I dumped my Pioneer). One just have to be careful to use the female end if you're plugging into male Pioneer AVIC sockets. If you plug in the wrong end, it's a pain to remove the terminal (as anyone who's done a bypass knows).

I've been told that all this cutting up of connectors with razor blades looks **REALLY** silly to electronics and robotics hobbyists, who routinely either buy pre-crimped wire to plug into plastic connectors, or just buy bags of the terminals and plain spools of wire and crimp the pins on themselves (I used to do that in a lab job myself...I recall it being a snap).

update us how is your project going, would like to find another easier way to get this done.

I've done some more research, and they DEFINITELY sell wires of various gauge with the right pins/sockets on them for these Pioneer harnesses.

 

Just find an expert local electronics or robotics hobby shop and tell them you're looking for electronics wire that has pre-crimped pins/sockets/terminals on them for Molex connectors.

 

The correct wire gauge is about 22 AWG and the pin/socket size is whatever the next size up from 0.1" would be...

 

...but I think even the the 0.1" pin width ones I linked to in the original post would probably snap into the vacant positions on these Pioneer harnesses just fine (haven't tried it, since my buddy's X920 install is done and I dumped my Pioneer). One just have to be careful to use the female end if you're plugging into male Pioneer AVIC sockets. If you plug in the wrong end, it's a pain to remove the terminal (as anyone who's done a bypass knows).

 

I've been told that all this cutting up of connectors with razor blades looks **REALLY** silly to electronics and robotics hobbyists, who routinely either buy pre-crimped wire to plug into plastic connectors, or just buy bags of the terminals and plain spools of wire and crimp the pins on themselves (I used to do that in a lab job myself...I recall it being a snap).

update us how is your project going, would like to find another easier way to get this done.

The install for my buddy is done, but we didn't want to wait for the pre-crimped 22 AWG wires to arrive, so we did the painfully silly razor blade bypass thing.

When we DID get them, they looked fine, though.

You don't HAVE to cut the connector or damage anything. You can open the connector and then can unlock the tab that holds the pin in place and move the wire over. As I recall, mine took me about 5 minutes to do -- and no cutting or damage to anything, or orderign extra wires.

Details are in the thread at the top of the section for the bypass.

See here: http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/27275-x920bt-bypass-confirmed/page__view__findpost__p__214099

Adam

You don't HAVE to cut the connector or damage anything. You can open the connector and then can unlock the tab that holds the pin in place and move the wire over. As I recall, mine took me about 5 minutes to do -- and no cutting or damage to anything, or orderign extra wires.

 

Details are in the thread at the top of the section for the bypass.

 

See here: http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/27275-x920bt-bypass-confirmed/page__view__findpost__p__214099

 

Adam

Dude...I agree that if one has enough manual dexterity, then yes, one can remove pins from Molex-type connectors in exactly the way you describe...but...

...it's tricky to those who haven't done it, and even then, not quite as simple as you make it sound for most people. In fact, these connectors are designed to NOT allow the pins to easily come out. They sell special tools that engineers use to remove wires from these things when it's absolutely required, because they don't have time to fiddle with every wire they need to remove (in rare instances they make a mistake wiring a harness).

Here's some examples of the tools you can get for this:

http://www.thefind.com/pets/browse-molex-pin-removal-tool

Moreover, here's a thread where ANOTHER user on here broke the wire trying to remove it:

http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/29790-broke-pin-trying-to-bypass/page__gopid__221185#entry221185

I still say it's simpler to have the right wires around pre-crimped with the right terminals on them. If one can't do that, get the tool. If one can't do THAT, then sure..go ahead and try your method of making an ad-hoc tool (e.g., staples).

Whatever one does, we're in total agreement that all this cutting up of connectors with razor blades is silly.

I'm surprised the "pro installers" who made that one bypass video (soundaudioman or whatever) don't know how to order these wires or get Molex pin removal tools....

Another option, if you only need the pins, is part #181673 from Jameco.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=181673&catalogId=10001&freeText=181673&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

I just crimped a wire onto the pin and inserted it into the socket next to the mute wire/pin.

Another option, if you only need the pins, is part #181673 from Jameco.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=181673&catalogId=10001&freeText=181673&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

 

I just crimped a wire onto the pin and inserted it into the socket next to the mute wire/pin.

Yep...another good call!

Much better than all this cutting of harnesses with razor blades and trying to re-use pins that aren't really designed for multiple removals...