Looks like there is indeed an inverse relationship between post count and maturity level on this board.
its kinda hard to take you seriously when your diarrhea of the mouth starts talking about maturity being the first guy to come out swinging
If you really knew the solution, you'd post it for the benefit of others
dont you wish that was the case, instead i actually do have fun being a dick to those who ack like douchebags, andd since no one here ever searches, i will be happy to help those people out when the time comes, granted they learn a little respect and conduct themselves in a manner that makes me actually want to help them
by making fun of the people who are not installation professionals and come here for help.
if by "not installation professionals" you mean rude pricks that believe that they are entitled to the world, then i would have to agree with you. however if you really dont want to take it back to the same guys that screwed it up in the first place, you can definitely bring it by here and i can fix it for you, i do usually charge an extra 50% to fix other peoples mistakes, but as a BMW owner, i guess your probably already used to that.
the real reason that im am here is so that i can figure out things with other installers and help them and receive some help as well, the common folk just happen to also benifit from that.
now lets go back and think about this, it works every single time as long as the car is not running, but it never works when the car is running, the only way a AVIC could "tell the difference" would be by the voltage that the alternator is outputting, and unless your alt if failing, the avic wouldnt have any firmware issues that would make only one feature fail to work consistantly due to a small change in voltage (that is still well within spec),then we can scratch that one off of the list, which brings us right back to installer failure (which was mentioned in the beginning)
which remind me of a tale from a few years ago, where i had to correct one of my new guys mistakes. he had put a new radio into a H3,(and back when interface modules had really bad reliably issues) you had to run a new acc wire for the radio, and the radio worked perfectly fine UNTIL the car was placed into drive, then the radio would shut off. long story cut short, it was the wrong wire that was tapped into, and an important lession was learned here, just because a wire shows similar charecteristics of another wire MOST OF THE TIME (I.E. when the car is not running)it does not make it the same as the wire that behaves the right way all of the time.
normally i dont like to give out too much info to those who dont really know what they are doing, expecially since it is so easy to cause thousands of dollars worth of damage in modern cars, but in your case im going to actually hope that you do. now when its not working (I.E. car is running) if the AVIC does not turn its screen to anything when the car is placed into reverse, then the AVIC's reverse wire is tapped into the wrong place, if the avic switches to a black screen with a warning, then the camera's power (or ground if the installer is real dumb) is connected to the wrong wire. there you go, now that you have the right answer, go out and fix it and shut your man pleaser.
Hey 1Loud, you're 40 too. 
awesome, now maybe finally i can stop over paying for insurance!!!!