Vehicle/Deck info

2007 Toyota Tundra CrewMax

z120bt

Kenwood XR5S

Last night I replaced all the door speakers, added 12 inch sub and into my Tundra.

I have had my z120bt in my truck for a couple of months. During those months I added aftermarket oem fog lights to my Tundra with DDM HID's. Everyone has been working fine.

During the testing of the install the radio/amp/speakers all were running fine.

After buttoning everything up I turn on my fog lights and the system goes dead. Amp is turned off and my z120 while it appears to be "on" is not pushing out any audio almost like it went into a protect of sorts.

Turning the truck completley off and back on resets everything and it will all work fine as long as the fog lights are not turned back on.

My headlight use the same HID's and do not cause any trouble. The fog lights do have a relayed harness because they were installed aftermarket even though they are "oem".

I am trying to figure out how I can bypass the harness to try what fixed VBLUE42 issue found in this thread:

http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/26589-z110bt-audi-connect2-wiring-harness-hids-no-audio/page__st__15

I am not sure if VBLUE's fix will correct mine but I am at a lost currently as to why this is happening. Any help would be greatl appreciated.

The only solution I know of that worked for me and others is to either use a different HID ballast or remove the relay. However there are others that have done this and never got rid of the issue. There is certainly an issue with the unit that causes this to happen with some vehicles or aftermarket HID systems and some people have just had to deal with the issue and activate their lights before the unit boots in order to avoid the issue. Go luck.

thank you for your reply.

Do we know what the issue is? Do the z1XX have a protect mode that cuts audio out if it gets a weird signal?

If it were my headlights on a HID harness I would of been removed the harness. Since it's my aftermarket fogs.. I will need to somehow supply them relayed power. I need to know what exactly the problem is so that I can then try to figure out a method to get around it.

If its an RF issue from the ballast I dont seem to understand why removing the relay would fix it. The ballast is still going to send the same RF frequencies. (at least I think)

If its not RF, then it has to be feedback through the power/ground which seems more plausible.

If its feedback through the power/ground.. I am not 100% sure how it gets back to the radio. The relay harness is direct from the battery and then to ground. The relay itself is tapped into my dimmer switch for 12v when ignition is on.

Part of my research today is to see if the dimmer switch is on the same power circuit as the radio. If so.. this could be how the feedback is looping back to the radio. I would just need to tap elsewhere for 12v on ignition.

I do not have the dimmer wired in on the radio If anyone is wondering.

We have racked our brains for well over a year now to figure out what was actually causing the issue but so far no one has nailed it. And it doesn't make sense that removing the relay fixes the problem but this is one of those ghost that doesn't have to make sense if it works. And for nearly all of us that have used that solution, it did work. I don't know what else to tell ya, it appears to be some kind of draw issue that kills the audio on the unit.

I'm having the same issues with my X920BT with HiDExtra HIDs with the relay harness. Unfortunately, I can't use them without the harness due to several people with my car frying their junction box without it.

Can you test this... Does your audio also come back on if you unplug and reconnect your iPod? This seems to also allow me to get sound back. This is extremely strange and I wish there was a legit fix for this.

Almost a year later and I am still having this exact same problem. I have tried using different grounds and signals for the HID's..

the only thing that seems to work is if take the HID's out of the picture.

It could be a voltage spike feeding back through the system. Most electromechanical devices (relays, fuel injectors, etc.) have a high voltage spike (300-400v) for a very, very short time when turned off , but can have a smaller spike when turned on after the coil fully energizes. Not 100% sure, but it sure sounds like it. The spike will go through almost everything in the car connected to the battery, so moving the tap location may not resolve the issue.

RF interference is rarely the cause of a system shut down/reboot, usually just causes noise. I had cheap aftermarket HIDs in the previous car my Z110BT was in, no performance issues other than some minor noise on FM here and there. Shielding the wires to the bulbs knocked 90% of that down. aluminum foil with a ground strap worked ok for that. (not pretty, but effective)

Two possible solutions I can suggest for your problem, check to see if the relay has a diode across the windings section of the relay. These will usually prevent the spike, replace with one that does if not (napa auto parts should have something that will work, air conditioning compressor relays usually have the diode). Second choice is add a diode inline to the supply lines to the radio, use one with enough current capacity to handle the load on the HU (i think 10amp on these units) and enough reverse voltage rating to prevent the spike (say 500 - 1000v). I worked in the automotive industry for 20 years or so and found this to be a problem with electronics in cars that were not protected enough against this. A small capacitor across the input lines (power to ground) with the diode never hurts either. Make sure it has a high voltage rating also.

should be able to get something at a radio shack or the likes, if not digikey.com...

I'd try the relay first since removing it seems to resolve the problem.

Hmm very weird becuase when I had the AVIC-Z110BT I had the same NO AUDIO issues with my HIDs everytime I turn them on, but then when I upgraded to the AVIC-Z120BT it never did it again.

And then I had the AVIC-Z130BT and now the AVIC-Z140BH, and no issues so far, only had issues with my AVIC-Z110BT at the time. Thought maybe they fixed it by adding some shielding and mor filters in the newer models since the 120 and on were fine with my HIDs!

I have similar audio problems with my AVIC-110 (AVIC-120 upgrade) that is caused by either noisy or low voltage. I have been chasing a problem with audio sources muting when my RV is plugged into house power. The voice control, guidance and beeps work but some or all other audio sources have no audio out. The problem seemed random until I tried using the system on battery power alone. Then the problems went away!

It appears that when I am plugged in, my 12VDC comes from an inverter, which is either giving a noisy 12V or low voltage, causing the audio driver to shut down or act sporadically. It is likely that your HID lights are drawing down on your voltage enough to put alternator noise on the 12V line, or reducing the voltage. I don't know how your lights are wired, but you need to get a good clean 12VDC to your HU to get reliable audio playback. That either means a filter, larger gauge power wiring, or a bigger alternator for you HID lights.

I had this problem... for like a week.... i just unhooked the power from the batter for half hour and it hasnt happened again.... i didnt change anything from the start tho, it just sorta happened 2 yrs after having the deck with no problem.... i did change from the scoche harness to the pac harness but yeah i just unhooked the battery for half n it solved it!! hope this works for you guys

So that fix I posted a few years back worked for a bout a year, but now for the past year I have bene experiencing this problem, just wondering if anyone has come up with a solution yet? I'm still running the z110 updated to 140bh. Via firmware, thisbis the nastiest bug I cant figure it out