For the last year, Ive been dealing with a finicky PAC SWI-PS control module. I re-programmed this thing about 50 times and still couldn't get it to work properly. What did I do to figure out the solution to this issue? I'll get to that in a minute.

Background:

I drive a 2007 Camry equipped with a Z110 (upgraded to Z130 & bypassed), HD-Radio add-on (GEX-P20HD), traffic tuner add-on (ND-TMC10), PAC SWI-PS steering wheel control module, jailbroken iPhone 4S, and a few custom add-ons [modified dash kit with LED indicator light & IR senesor for hidden DTV converter & antenna, iPhone dock with hidden wiring, full internal LED bulb replacements, LED footwell lights, HID headlight kit, DVD headrests with built-in Nintendo games & wireless headphones, and Viper alarm with iPhone remote start]. I also managed to design a high powered system with two amps (1000W RMS) and two hard-hitting 12" subs in the trunk, all on stock battery/alternator (yes, this is possible). I plan to make a youtube video of my car, I just haven't taken the time to do so; I will keep everyone posted.

Now, back to why I wrote this thread; the PAC SWI-PS. As I approach police cars on my daily drive, I have trouble turning off the video thats running while the car is in motion. Sometimes I just want to switch the source in a pinch, but i have to do a few touch screen motions to do so. All because my PAC SWI-PS decides NOT to work at any given moment. But this is no longer an issue. What did I do to remedy the situation?

<< ........drumroll .......... >>

I programmed the PAC SWI-PS with the car running, headlights on, and the AC (or heat) at full blast. Why does this work? Because the PAC module uses voltage-dividing levels to determine which button is pushed. If it is programmed with the car cold, the problem occurs when the headlights are turned on, or the AC/heat is turned on, the voltage-dividing levels are changed. I found this out by noticing one of my VOLUME buttons on my steering wheel would consistently act as my SOURCE button when the headlights were on (very irritating). This indicates the values of each button has shifted, some of which was out-of-range for the desired voltage levels. Thus, with the headlights & AC/heat on while programming, the voltage levels of the steering wheel buttons are still within the desired range when the lights are off.

Conclusion:

I am now so happy with my system responding to my every wish.

Thank you for reading my post.

Something similar happens on the GTO. The right side buttons on the wheel stop working (the left work fine). Switching to the Metra Axxiss ASWC kit fixed that. I think the SWI-PS has that issue in a lot of cars.

I have had similar issues in my car with the PAC modules. However I wouldn't expect you solution to continue to work. I have done similar efforts to overcome it and it still failed on occasion. Good luck however.

Holy Crap! You might just be a genius! I'm new to the forum so let me give you some background.

I purchased a 2011 Subaru WRX Limited in December of 2010. The car was technically used but only had 1300 miles in it. The guy that owned it for a month and a half installed a Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT, backup camera, dynomat in the doors, and some miscellaneous other things. To get the steering controls to work, I later found out that he had a PAC unit installed (that's the little blue box, right?).

Anyway, just as you mentioned, I've been having the same problems and it's been driving me crazy! Sometimes all my buttons work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes some work and some don't. Sometimes a certain button (like Volume Up) suddenly does a different command than it's supposed to. It's crazy!

One thing I noticed is that it seemed like it was always worse the louder the volume is (I have a JL amp and JL 8" sub in the trunk). You've got me wondering if that could be because of the voltage draw from the amp or whether the headlights are on, etc.

Since I don't really know anything about this, can you point me in a direction to find out how to reprogram it? It sounds like it might be worth a shot to turn everything up and on and try a fresh reprogram. I hope that works!

THanks man!

Programming the "little blue box" isnt too bad. You just have to know WHEN to press the PAC programming button during the programming sequence.

The instructions are found HERE.

Once you have your VERSION # for your car, programming shouldnt be all that bad. But since you said it works intermittently, you shouldnt have to re-program the VERSION #, only the steering wheel buttons.

Good luck!!!!