With a z110 as my base (upgraded to Z130), I am posting a list of my added equipment (commercial & custom) installs for my 2007 Camry. And because I work in corporate America, it is a must that a majority of my installs are stealth; you won't know what is in my car until I turn things on. From the outside, it looks like your typical Camry.

Here are a few things that are inside:

• DTV that picks up over-the-air stations
  
  • Hidden powered-antenna and modified DTV converter box
    
  • IR sensor mounted to HU faceplate for remote control
    

  [*]Premium sound system

  • Two highly efficient amps & subs
    

  [*]"0" exposed wires when mounting iPhone on the dash

  [*]Two rear DVD monitors that can either broadcast, or receive, AV sources

  • can simultaneously run up to 3 separate AV sources (including HU)
    
  • Nintendo emulation in the rear screens (entire gaming library included)
    
  • wireless controls & wireless headphones
    
  • zipped covers for security
    

  [*]PSTwo powered by custom 50W supply

  • Modified to run PSTwo games from thumb drive
    
  • Full emulation of numerous retro systems (Atari, NES, SNES, Sega Genesis, etc.)
    

  [*]Internal LED lighting (footwells & rear-headrest with LED track lighting)

  [*]Viper Remote-Start (iPhone controlled)

The iPhone, and a TRULY unlimited data plan, opens up another level of media in the car; Netflix, HBO, ESPN, as well as access to the media stored on my NAS box at home are just a few taps away.

I designed the entire system to run off of stock battery & alternator. Thus there are no additional batteries or high powered alternator. I went for quality, not quantity; the sound is clean and powerful.

I will post pics and/or YouTube links as soon as I get around to it.

The full list of additions is in my signature. I will post details of the modifications for anyone interested.

Thank you for reading my post.

nice

Excited to see some pics.

so where's the pictures, Sorry to bust your bubble but I think the big 3 upgrade you did was a waste of money, your only running 600 watts and your sub amp is only 600watts @ 2ohm stable, your sub is an overpriced JL, you need to get a real system. If i park beside you and have my volume at 15% you probably wont hear your system

Here's what I got

Car 2010 Mazda CX-9

avic 120bt

media 16gb SDHC for music videos

subs 2 Skar VVX 15" DVC 4 cost $450

Amp Brutus 1700.1d, runinng 1700watts @1ohm = cost $200.00

mids and highs Rockford PBR 300x4 cost $150

cadence 8" mid range

cadence 6.5

capacitor

extra gel cel battery at tha back, without the extra battery my lights dim slightly

here's pictures

Sorry but i just think your post is kinda arrogant for such a small system, you could've built a better system for a lot less money, the shop that you went to probably loved you since you spent all that money for a lousy 600w system.

you should check this web store for real sound systems

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/

I'm nowhere near arrogant, I'm just proud of what I've accomplished; I met my design goals and I wanted to share it with this community.

Well Mr. naughtyca, in response to your comments, here are the goals for my first project car:

1) Design system without adding extra batteries, or a high-powered alternator

2) Design for QUALITY, not QUANTITY

3) Use highly efficient amps (~80%) @ 4 ohms

• lower heat dissipation
  
• less taxing on electrical system & equipment
  
• avoid noise/distortion at higher volumes
  

4) Save power for additional electronics (headrests, gaming system, custom lighting, etc.)

Now, you might wanna stop reading the rest, because here is where I point out the incompleteness in your statements.

I'm not sure of your math, but my mono is pushing 620 watts RMS @ 4 ohms, alone, and the 4 channel amp puts out 123 watts RMS per channel @ 4 ohms. How do I know this? Becasue the amps came with Birth Certificates that indicate their individual performance. If you dont have a calculator, that's 1100+ watts RMS are just for the speakers, subs, & amps (with amps @ ~80% efficient, I need up 1375 watts from battery/alternator). Where did you come up with 600 watts?

Also, I personally selected each/every component in this design, and actually paid less than you, so thanks for pointing out what you paid. Some things are overpriced for a reason. Quality costs, its never cheap, its up to you to know the difference between Costly and Over-priced.

Firstly, I speak the language of quality, not quantity, so please dont assume your system is top notch because it is loud; a retarded kid at a school play is the loudest in the room, but if you can't understand what he/she is saying, then what is the point?

Secondly, your mono amp is almost the same as mine with the exception of running at 1 & 2 ohm stable. Running @ 1 ohm stable will run your system hot, which means you are burning off A LOT of the extra power as heat. Also, your amp has a low-end frequency response of 35 Hertz; my headphones can do better than that. What this means is that your amp cannot produce the true sub-sonic frequencies that only quality system can. (FYI, I'm @ 5 Hertz). You wont HEAR this sound, you will FEEL it.

Thirdly, adding an extra battery will only make your alternator work twice as hard which is why I have design goal #1, so look forward to possibly replacing your alternator. And a cap is partly good if your lights are dimming, but this is an indication you are pushing the limits of your electrical system; it is a band-aid covering up the scabs of not having enough power. In other words, your system was simply INSTALLED into your car, and I DESIGNED my system based on my car's electrical capabilities.

Fourthly, with the addition of a gaming system (which I am working on now), custom lighing, dual headrests, digital cable, and an custom AV switch, I think I did a phenomenal job.

Lastly, this is my attempt to give back to the AVIC community, just as they have been good to me in the past. I share what I've learned & accomplished with my project; I'm not trying to criticize for the sake of saying "Mine is Better".

Sorry for the long rant, but I hope someone can learn from my statements; its not about bragging, its about what has been accomplished.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I think your system is way too low-end heavy. This means, your subs will drown out your speakers at high volumes; you are only running 300W for four speakers (75W each), but 1700W for the subs. You are pushing PURE bass, but no balanced sound in the mids & highs.

Again, what is the point of a LOUD system if the music isnt clean? I guess you can answer this, because I dont get it.

I doubt you can feel anything on 620watts and your mids and highs have more power than your sub very funny

lpine Amps (PDX-F4 & PDX-M6) VERY HIGH QUALITY!!! expensive but no power

what are you powering with your mono 620x4 , there is no such thing, what a moron, there is no way my sub amp is the same as yours mine is a D class mono and if you know your amp you know mine is a real sub amp, your puny 600watts 2ohm amp is not even a d class, yours is an a/b and you probably spent over $400, only a newbie at car stereo will do this, and also your polk audio and sony mids and highs are a joke.

you spent so much money on your big 3 but you use a crappy lanzar for your amp kit. Lanzar OPTIKITCAP0 Optidrive 0 Gauge Dual Amplifier Wire Kit

who would put an SDHC card in the forum and its not even a class 10

heres a link to buy a class 10 for 16gb at $12.00, hopefully you still have some money left to buy it

http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Class-Flash-Memory-TS16GSDHC10E/dp/B003VNKNEQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1339549960&sr=8-1

Patriot 16 GB Class 6 SDHC Flash Memory

what this means is you change the bulb of you headlights 2007 camry does not come with the proper HID compartment

XenonSupply HID Lights (H11), Wiring Harness, and Cancellor Caps

Oh, I forgot to mention that I think your system is way too low-end heavy. This means, your subs will drown out your speakers at high volumes; you are only running 300W for four speakers (75W each), but 1700W for the subs. You are pushing PURE bass, but no balanced sound in the mids & highs.

 

Again, what is the point of a LOUD system if the music isnt clean? I guess you can answer this, because I dont get it.

not sure if you have heard of a remote bass gain, you need th 1700 watts for really deep base around 30hz which your system cannot handle, if you dont know Skar Audio you dont know competition kind of subs

did you check out this site

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/

this is where you will find real subwoofers not your walmart, sears subwoofers like Kickers and overpriced JL, (and by the way you dont even have the w7 JL) if you shopped smarter you couldve afford the w7 which i might give you rep for, W3's are way down the totem pole.

Here's what you need to learn on capacitors

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPTlfwgPGyM

Here's the specs on your amp

mids and highs 4x100

Alpine PDX-F4

4-channel car amplifier — 100 watts RMS x 4

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXF4/Alpine-PDX-F4.html?tp=115

your sub amp price $499, who is stupid enough to buy a 600 watts not even stable at 1 ohm for that price, oops sorry i forgot you did

Alpine PDX-M6

Mono sub amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXM6/Alpine-PDX-M6.html?search=PDX-M6&skipvs=T

As a circuit designer by profession, I know well enough to not purposely run an amp at 1 ohm, even if it's an option. It's efficiency drops significantly at that level, and power is wasted due to excessive heating. You can drive your car with your feet, but that doesn't mean you should do it.

And thanks for pointing out I own 2 highly efficient class D amps. I'm all about conserving energy, as well as my money. Which is why you paid more for your equipment than I did. I will let you assume I paid retail.

You comment on my equipment and post links for websites; are you a vendor? That would explain your lack of TRUE knowledge of electro-physics. Keep posting your websites, I hope you make your quota. I will continue to spend MY money as I see fit.

This is the last of my attention you will get. Have fun with your choices in life.

To all others, I will post pics and vids soon. Thanks for reading my post.

well im not a rep, and if you are a circuit designer i feel bad for whoever you work for because you definitely does not know what your talking about regarding stable 1ohm amps.

I am not trying to sell you anything, you just did a poor piss job on designing your system and you think its sooo nice.

hopefully this will teach you something when you post your stuff online, polk audio, sony and jlw3 is a mediocre system

The end