Hello, douger here. First time caller, long time listener.

 

I finally took the dive and replace my Pioneer AVH-P2400 with the AVIC-Z150BH. I had been using an iPad as my navigation tool with less than satisfactory results. A trip to Indiana from Maryland, and seeing my brother's 2013 Buick with the integrated nav app was all it took to convince me that it was time to upgrade.

 

1) I have a 2005 Grand Prix with the Monsoon system. In order for me to keep the chimes and the factory built in amp, I needed to use a Axxess GMOS-04 adapter. A problem I had with the old 2400 system was that the retained accessory power would keep the engine running for up to 20 seconds after I switched the ignition "off." Kill the RAP by opening the car door and the engine would stop. I'd also get some popping in the rear speakers until everything warmed up.

 

2) Axxess has apparently upgraded the -04 unit. I got a new one, thinking that the old one was defective in keeping the car running with the key off. The updated unit has an extra power lead. I no longer have the problem of the engine continuing to run on with the key off. If you have a later model GM car with the serial data setup, I highly recommend this unit, even if you're not interested in retaining your chimes, RAP or OnStar. Every connection you'll need to make to get the basic Pioneer working is here. You won't need to run separate wires for power, speaker, etc., unless of course you want to.

 

3) DO NOT connect the brown wire from the 16 pin Axxess connector to the mute wire of the Pioneer RCA connector. If I'd watched the videos on the parking brake hack (DOH!) I'd probably already know this. If you do, at some point, the Pioneer unit will go into mute mode, and you won't be able to bring it back out. It seems to be temperature sensitive...shut the unit down for about five minutes or so, and you'll get full volume again...for about ten minutes.

 

I'd like to keep this installation as clean as possible. I'll take any suggestion on mounting the GPS and the Sirus/XM antennas. I'd even consider using the factory antenna setup if I knew that the connectors would work. I'd also like to keep the iPod/Android adapter cables from dangling all over the place. I got a couple of PAC USBCBL so that I could flush mount the USB connectors on the floor console and inside the console compartment, where I keep the iPod.

 

The HDMI connector for the Android might be a bit more problematic. I'm thinking about using a residential wall plate with a HDMI pass through something like this, replacing the F jack with my USB flush mount.

 

A couple of notes/comments based on other threads I've read here.

 

1) If you want your display to respond to your headlights being on, hook up the orange/white wire to the  switched side of the headlights switch. (On mine, it's part of the Axxess unit.) If you haven't seen it, the unit goes from a bright background to a dark background. On my installation, I have automatic headlamps, which come on long before dark. I find the unit to be readable in night mode even with daylight outside.

 

2) I'm wondering if anyone has tried using the OnStar microphone to get around the crap microphone Pioneer supplies for hands off. If so, is it worth the considerable effort to steal it from the OnStar module?

 

3) I've noted a reluctance in using the RCA plug...most likely because of the bulk of all of those dangling connectors. Since we know how to remove a pin, (the parking brake hack) why not remove all of the pins for connectors you won't need? (For my installation, I'm using only the parking brake hack, the AUX connector and the rear camera input.I don't need preamps or rear monitors.) Just make sure to take note of which connectors use which pin location in the white connector housing, in case you change your mind. It'd save buying another connector from Pioneer.

 

4) RTFM, it really isn't clear as to whether I'll need to use the 3.5mm audio connector to plug into the Pioneer unit from my iPod. Does the USB from the Apple adapter that plugs into the back of the head unit do the audio too, now? I've got a flush mount audio connector if I need it...and I was going to mount one anyway for a mp3 player. But if I don't need to mount one in the console compartment, I won't.

 

5) I've seen this asked in other threads and I'll confirm it here. The older Sirus/XM receivers had square plugs which mated on the back of the head unit. Newer head units (from most manufacturers) seem to have settled on a standard Sirus/XM receiver. I'm using this one, the beauty being no power input is needed.

 

Mods...if I didn't put this thread in the correct forum, my feelings won't be hurt if you move it. Also, might I suggest an "installations" forum where people can share their installation woes and show off their stuff?

 

 

Oh. One more point. Crutchfield.com says this head unit wouldn't fit in my car. Before I committed to buying it, I compared the dimensions between this unit and the one I already had installed. It was about a half inch deeper. I knew from installing the last head unit that I had almost an inch behind the unit, and the option to hack away at some plastic pieces if I needed to. Just make sure that nothing blocks the fan when you install it. On the first bolt in, I found the RCA cabling was blocking the fan...simply re-routing the cable fixed that.

 

Just because it says "double DIN" on the box...that's for the radio opening itself. The depth of the head unit is the key dimension. Make sure you allow some space for the fan...which blows out, BTW.

 

Yeah, I know...one more point. Get a Metra installation kit that's specific to your vehicle. You'll be glad you did.

Now that I've gotten all of the adapter cables that I need to do what I want this head unit to do, I think I've been able to answer some of my own questions.

 

1) The Apple adapter cable does indeed have a separate audio cable. There is an USB break a couple of feet from the head unit side of the cable, but none for the audio cable. I have a decision to make: run the cable as is under the center console and drill a hole in the bottom of the compartment box to pass it through, or do surgery on a $35 cable to add a couple of 3.5 mm jacks at the split, so I can install what I think is a more elegant design? Decisions, decisions.

 

2) I won't need to put the HDMI plug on the side of the console as I had thought. The Android adapter comes with a MHL adapter box. For right now, I'll drill a hole to pass the MHL cable through and mount the box on the inside of the console. When I get my new phone in a couple of months...I'm torn between the Samsung S4 and the HTC One, I'll revisit the issue. My research on either phone hasn't turned up whether there's a separate MHL socket on either phone, but I do know if I go Samsung, I'll have to pop for yet another adapter.

 

3) I think I've figured out how to mount the GPS and Sirius/XM antennas. The GPS antenna for the OnStar is mounted under a dashboard trim panel that serves as the defroster grille. If it's good enough for OnStar, it's good enough for Dougie. Stay tuned.