i dont have my D3 yet but i will soon but i dont understand how the 2 wires are being grounded. the harnes plugs into the unit so u cant ground there. do i ground them at the other end. i know it sound like a stupid question but i cant figure it out without the unit on hand and trying to underrstand the posts about it.
so if anyone could post a pick of it, that would be great.
thx
I just finished installing the D3. So I took the yellow/black wire (the one you moved the pin), the black wire with the spade, the greenish e-brake wire, and the black ground wire from the factory harness and twisted them all together into one of those twisty wire nuts. Then I kept twisting the wires together and zip-tied them so they wouldn't come out of the wire nut easily. Some people have been using other ground points instead of the one from the factory harness, and that works too. Just remember in order for the bypass to work you take the yellow/black wire and the greenish e-brake wire and connect them together at some ground point in the car.
FYI wire nuts in a car= very bad idea.
for the love of god use solder.
remove the yellow/black mute wire and move it up 1 pin to the correct location for the bypass. then grab the yellow/black wire and the light green parking brake wire AND the long black wire with the spade, and cut them all off at the same length, equivalent to the other wires. solder all 3 wires together and to the ground wire from your factory harness. add some shrink tubing and viola. bypass the correct way.
cntrylvr79 Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 12:37 pm Post subject:
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FYI wire nuts in a car= very bad idea.
why are they so bad???
Because they fall off possibly causing a nasty short.
^^^Wht he said. I have seen more than my fair share of radios, amps, alarms, and various computers in cars RUINED because someone decided to use wire nuts.
damn thats crazy
I don't trust factory grounds, so here's how I did it.
I gathered the AVIC ground wire, parking brake wire, bluetooth ground, camera ground, and Sirius ground and soldered the ends together, along with ~18" of 10 gauge wire to extend the ground lead. I hate extending grounds, but I swear my interior is entirely made of plastic. I soldered a large washer to the other end of the 10 awg wire (homemade ring connector). I found a hole in the chassis near the gearshift, so I sanded the paint off, screwed the washer down on the chassis with a large metal screw, and called it a day. It holds nice and tight.
Since the cell phone mute wire is pretty short, I cut the connector off and used one of the Pioneer-provided wire taps to connect the mute wire to the parking brake wire. Since this wasn't a part of the main power supply circuit, I figured there should be no problem tapping one of the other grounded wires to make my life easier. It worked like a charm, everything functions in good order, and the only thing I have to worry about possibly falling off is the mute wire tap. Not the end of the world, shouldn't short anything out, just disable the bypass if that happens.
For what it's worth, I don't trust the factory power either. The fuses of all my components add up to 15 A, the stock radio is on a 7.5 A fuse (the AVIC alone is 10 A). I ran a new 10 awg (fused at 20 A) power wire from the battery to the radio cavity, where I connected the various power leads. The AVIC reports a steady ~14.3 V, so I figure my connections must be fine.
ya i wouldn't trust the factory i head they are out to get us and are in cohoots with them aliens and al gore!
the sarcasm on that previous post was off the charts!
ya i wouldn't trust the factory i head they are out to get us and are in cohoots with them aliens and al gore!
Hahahahaa.... manbearpig.
ahh... southpark fans. I love that show as well.