what a forum.....you guys figure out solutions to a problem in no time.

Jason, why don't you post a need to figure out the Israel/Arab situation.... this forum could probably prevent WWIII

thats the way the original n1 was being bypassed, not practical but it worked

This sounds like it is completely NOT an option for a bypass. I will not lose NAV. The whole point of the bypass is so that you have NAV while driving. I am not going to unplug/replug stuff either. Maybe I misread it...?

Give it time, there is always an easier way. That way has been around for years

Give it time, there is always an easier way. That way has been around for years

Yeah I'm a patient man. I'll wait.

BTW, you get that new BT thing installed yet? I cant wait to hear!!! j/k ahah

lol, thats not a bypass, thats ghetto. though it may work partially, it doesnt work completely so it falls short of beign a full bypass.

We didn't need 3 posted in all 3 forums with the same thing. I took the liberty of deleting the duplicates and left this one with the conversation.

And I agree with tillithz, this is pretty bad.

And they had things like this with the Z1. These switch based bypasses which "disconnect the GPS" don't work well or for very long. Eventually the Z1 would calibrate itself and if the vehicle was a rough riding SUV, the internal gyro's would sense movement.

For the first 30 - 100 miles of the Z1's life the internal gyro's would not contribute to the overall movement of the vehicle. So the Z1 took the movement info from the GPS antenna.

When you keep flipping that switch I think it resets the calibration of the internal gyros. The Z1 would feel the motion and watch the antenna and try to correlate the 2. People who kept flipping the switch a lot would be fine for a while. Then would go on a trip and leave the antenna connected and it would no longer work. Over the last year with www.sminntech.com I got sooooo many emails from people who's installers did stuff like this on their Z1's and then months later were bugging me to help them get it right.

I know all this is Z1 info and the Z2 is different, but it seems like they changed how the bypass is done... maybe making it harder to bypass. I would be surprised if they made this method of getting around the bypass easier to do (make this "hack" work on the Z2 but not on the Z1).

The biggest problem with something like this is people who might have been trying things might stop trying if there seems like there is something that might work.

901SoundsofMemphis, I do appreciate you sharing what you found. We all do. But this is not the solution. Look back at pretty much all the Avic's and there was something "simple" which needed to be found which just made it work all the time with no switches. Did you try resistors and measuring voltages like I talked about in my other post? Changing voltages and resistances?

if your spelling is any indication of your work, then i'll pass on the bypass

if your spelling is any indication of your work, then i'll pass on the bypass

Be nice! They are trying to help. And we should be grateful of anything people post when they are trying to help.

i said it with a smile

i said it with a smile

I know, that's why I "yelled" at you with a smile

If u guys have other way to bypass the unit then post it. This is a temp bypass till we find an easier way.

what a forum.....you guys figure out solutions to a problem in no time.

 

Jason, why don't you post a need to figure out the Israel/Arab situation.... this forum could probably prevent WWIII

You're maybe right. we only had them for a week. we still need more time if there is a easier way.

We didn't need 3 posted in all 3 forums with the same thing. I took the liberty of deleting the duplicates and left this one with the conversation.

 

And I agree with tillithz, this is pretty bad.

 

And they had things like this with the Z1. These switch based bypasses which "disconnect the GPS" don't work well or for very long. Eventually the Z1 would calibrate itself and if the vehicle was a rough riding SUV, the internal gyro's would sense movement.

 

For the first 30 - 100 miles of the Z1's life the internal gyro's would not contribute to the overall movement of the vehicle. So the Z1 took the movement info from the GPS antenna.

 

When you keep flipping that switch I think it resets the calibration of the internal gyros. The Z1 would feel the motion and watch the antenna and try to correlate the 2. People who kept flipping the switch a lot would be fine for a while. Then would go on a trip and leave the antenna connected and it would no longer work. Over the last year with www.sminntech.com I got sooooo many emails from people who's installers did stuff like this on their Z1's and then months later were bugging me to help them get it right.

 

I know all this is Z1 info and the Z2 is different, but it seems like they changed how the bypass is done... maybe making it harder to bypass. I would be surprised if they made this method of getting around the bypass easier to do (make this "hack" work on the Z2 but not on the Z1).

 

The biggest problem with something like this is people who might have been trying things might stop trying if there seems like there is something that might work.

 

901SoundsofMemphis, I do appreciate you sharing what you found. We all do. But this is not the solution. Look back at pretty much all the Avic's and there was something "simple" which needed to be found which just made it work all the time with no switches. Did you try resistors and measuring voltages like I talked about in my other post? Changing voltages and resistances?

If u guys have other way to bypass the unit then post it. This is a temp bypass till we find an easier way.

Trust me, as soon as anyone who is willing to post the answer has one, they will post it.

Did you try the suggestions. I wish I had one in my hands to systematically try all the rumors and possibilities I have heard, but all I can do is post what I would try and hope that you all out there actually try it.

901SoundsofMemphis, did you try doing anything with a resistor? If so, what did you try and how did you test where it was going?

I just don't want people to do that and think this is the solution. I'm convinced that there is something better, but I don't have one to test so I have to suggest things and let someone else try them.

Jason, why don't you post a need to figure out the Israel/Arab situation.... this forum could probably prevent WWIII

If only watching DVD's while we drove would make different religions want to stop killing each other... it would be solved within a month.

Sorry, no. Ran out of time today and I don't want to do it at my complex--I think my neighbors would steal it right after

 

Yeah I'm a patient man. I'll wait.

BTW, you get that new BT thing installed yet? I cant wait to hear!!! j/k ahah

I noticed when looking at it on PioneerElectronics.com that it supports IPBus, but the Z1/Z2 are not listed. Instead the Z1/Z2 recommend that NBT1 or whatever the # is (thats what I have). It sucks. I NEVER use bluetooth... So lets see what you think of this new one.

let us know bro.

Sorry, no. Ran out of time today and I don't want to do it at my complex--I think my neighbors would steal it right after

 

 

Yeah I'm a patient man. I'll wait.

BTW, you get that new BT thing installed yet? I cant wait to hear!!! j/k ahah

what the heck? what was there before the winking face

Ya, Z1/Z2 use the NDBT1 because they already come with a mic. The 6800 and 7800DVD, D3, and a couple CD players use the CDBTB200 through P-bus

I noticed when looking at it on PioneerElectronics.com that it supports IPBus, but the Z1/Z2 are not listed. Instead the Z1/Z2 recommend that NBT1 or whatever the # is (thats what I have). It sucks. I NEVER use bluetooth... So lets see what you think of this new one.

 

let us know bro.