Hey everyone. I'm new to the forums, but thought I'd share my experience tonight.

I just did the 2-wire bypass on my Z1 built in May of 06. I just got it so I automatically assumed it would be a post-July model, but about halfway through the wire mod, I looked at the unit. May 06. I decided to continue with the mod anyway, since flashing the headlights wasn't working for me (maybe I was doing it wrong).

An odd thing I encountered when trying to follow the instructions was that couldn't find the "cell phone mute" wire on connector two, which was referenced in the SMinnTech.com article. I used the alternate wire mentioned ("guide on") and everything seems to have worked fine.

This leaves me with two questions:

1) I thought this mod only worked with units built after July 06.

2) Could this have worked because the unit was already patched with the BT Echo update?

3) Finally, could the headlight flashing not have worked because it came updated already? I searched the forums, but haven't seen anything to this effect.

Thanks for all the great info. This is truly a sweet forum....

1) I thought this mod only worked with units built after July 06.

That is correct

2) Could this have worked because the unit was already patched with the BT Echo update?

That is most likely what occured

3) Finally, could the headlight flashing not have worked because it came updated already? I searched the forums, but haven't seen anything to this effect.

Did you buy a new one or a refurb? Or a demo that maybe someone had already done the bluetooth update too?

Hey everyone. I'm new to the forums, but thought I'd share my experience tonight.

 

I just did the 2-wire bypass on my Z1 built in May of 06. I just got it so I automatically assumed it would be a post-July model, but about halfway through the wire mod, I looked at the unit. May 06. I decided to continue with the mod anyway, since flashing the headlights wasn't working for me (maybe I was doing it wrong).

 

An odd thing I encountered when trying to follow the instructions was that couldn't find the "cell phone mute" wire on connector two, which was referenced in the SMinnTech.com article. I used the alternate wire mentioned ("guide on") and everything seems to have worked fine.

 

This leaves me with two questions:

 

1) I thought this mod only worked with units built after July 06.

2) Could this have worked because the unit was already patched with the BT Echo update?

3) Finally, could the headlight flashing not have worked because it came updated already? I searched the forums, but haven't seen anything to this effect.

 

Thanks for all the great info. This is truly a sweet forum....

@whtcrxghst

Thanks for the reply, I have a little update. I actually took the car for a drive and got the "parking brake lead incorrectly wired" message. I popped in a DVD movie as I started the car, and it continued to play for 1-2 minutes until that message popped up. The conclusion I came to was that the BT hadn't yet been updated.

So I downloaded the CD and updated the unit. It took the update just fine, then after a reboot notified me it had already been updated, so I'm sure it wasn't updated when I received it. I didn't buy it used or refurbed. I got it from the vendor my insurance company uses.... it looked brand new/never used.

So now when I start up the car, I still get the parking brake lead error, but everything seems to work. I can watch a DVD, plot navigation, set the time and change the background without issue. This was only during a 5-minute trip around the neighborhood, though.

Should I be seeing the parking lead error at all? ...or is it normal to see it when you first boot the unit up?

...forgot to mention, I wasn't 100% sure about the parking lead wire. There were three green wires coming from the Z1:

- Dark green

- Dark green w/black stripe

- Light green

I took the light green and cut it, then wired the side running into the Z1 to a grounding screw. The other end (presumably going to the e-brake) I left hanging.

The odd thing was that the stereo shop had connected the light green wire to a darker green wire behind the dash with a butt connector. If you look at the wire underneath the center console near the actual e-brake handle, however, it's still light green.

The vehicle is a 2005 Ford Mustang....

Just hitting the reset button will usually take care of the parking brake error message if it hasn't gone away. Have you tried that yet?

Yup. I was going through everyone's experiences on the "Security Bypass and Z1 FAQ". That did the trick.

With this done now, is there any chance the messages can "come back" as others have complained about, assuming the wires stay grounded? I crimped on eye lugs and secured them to the metal frame behind the radio area with lock washers. I doubt they'll ever come loose.

Here are some pics of the entire setup, by the way. The whole thing is pretty well hidden. I had a the subs mounted in the wheel well (thank God for roadside assistance) and a false floor to cover it:

Trunk (false floor)

Amps (with cover)

Amps (without cover)

2x 12" Type-Es (with cover)

2x 12" Type-Es (without cover)

AVIC-Z1

Rear headrest monitors

This is the problem testing the 2 wire ground bypass. You don't know if that worked till you drive around, and sometimes it can take many miles to lock you back out.

You had a stock non-updated unit, it would have needed headlight flashing before the update, now after the update the 2 wires grounded.

An odd thing I encountered when trying to follow the instructions was that couldn't find the "cell phone mute" wire on connector two, which was referenced in the SMinnTech.com article.

Was it this article?

http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html#newbypass

Cause I said: Personally I took the "cell phone mute" wire out of "connector 1"

Guide on is in connector 2, cell phone mute is in connector 1. But I don't come out and specifically talk about where the guide wire was, just that either one you pull will end up in connector 2.

The odd thing was that the stereo shop had connected the light green wire to a darker green wire behind the dash with a butt connector. If you look at the wire underneath the center console near the actual e-brake handle, however, it's still light green.

 

The vehicle is a 2005 Ford Mustang....

That is a little weird, but I'm sure people have done weirder things. But the light green wire in the Z1 is the parking brake sense wire, and by grounding it you should be good to go. Other than make sure the other end doesn't short to anything, I wouldn't worry about the color of the wires left in your car.

So now when I start up the car, I still get the parking brake lead error, but everything seems to work. I can watch a DVD, plot navigation, set the time and change the background without issue. This was only during a 5-minute trip around the neighborhood, though.

 

Should I be seeing the parking lead error at all? ...or is it normal to see it when you first boot the unit up?

No, this is only because you tried bypassing the Z1 incorrectly at one point... (using 2 wires grounded when you should have been flashing your headlights). If you did the correct bypass for the correct way the unit was at the time, that would have never come up. Now that will come up every time till you:

Just hitting the reset button will usually take care of the parking brake error message if it hasn't gone away.

The recessed button to the right of eject. That will make it go away, and I don't think it ever will on it's own and can effect the bypass. So you want to do that.

With this done now, is there any chance the messages can "come back" as others have complained about, assuming the wires stay grounded? I crimped on eye lugs and secured them to the metal frame behind the radio area with lock washers. I doubt they'll ever come loose.

Come back? Generally, if you did everything correct, no. And you talk about the lugs, metal behind the frame, that kind of thing. It's far more likely your problem, if you will have one, will be in the insertion of the terminal end into connector 2. Most people can ground a wire, but the real problem is people either damage the terminal end when they extract the wire or they don't know the correct orientation for insertion in to the hole in connector 2 and that wiggles loose. If that pop up message comes back focus on the wire in connector 2, I'm sure you did a good job with the other end of those wires.

Thanks for all the great info. This is truly a sweet forum....

Thanks. You are welcome.

This is the problem testing the 2 wire ground bypass. You don't know if that worked till you drive around, and sometimes it can take many miles to lock you back out.

 

You had a stock non-updated unit, it would have needed headlight flashing before the update, now after the update the 2 wires grounded.

I drove around quite a bit today. All seems well.

Was it this article?

http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html#newbypass

Cause I said: Personally I took the "cell phone mute" wire out of "connector 1"

Guide on is in connector 2, cell phone mute is in connector 1. But I don't come out and specifically talk about where the guide wire was, just that either one you pull will end up in connector 2.

Yes, it was that article and yes, I was looking at "connector 2" for the wire. Doh.

That is a little weird, but I'm sure people have done weirder things. But the light green wire in the Z1 is the parking brake sense wire, and by grounding it you should be good to go. Other than make sure the other end doesn't short to anything, I wouldn't worry about the color of the wires left in your car.

Per your recommendation, I'm not worried about it. The wire coming from the parking brake is wire-nutted so it will not short out anywhere.

No, this is only because you tried bypassing the Z1 incorrectly at one point... (using 2 wires grounded when you should have been flashing your headlights). If you did the correct bypass for the correct way the unit was at the time, that would have never come up. Now that will come up every time till you: (hit reset button)

 

The recessed button to the right of eject. That will make it go away, and I don't think it ever will on it's own and can effect the bypass. So you want to do that.

As I posted earlier, that did the trick. It was good to know why it happened previously. It seems like a CEL on a OBDII car, where the message stays until you clear it, though the original problem may be gone.

Come back? Generally, if you did everything correct, no. And you talk about the lugs, metal behind the frame, that kind of thing. It's far more likely your problem, if you will have one, will be in the insertion of the terminal end into connector 2. Most people can ground a wire, but the real problem is people either damage the terminal end when they extract the wire or they don't know the correct orientation for insertion in to the hole in connector 2 and that wiggles loose. If that pop up message comes back focus on the wire in connector 2, I'm sure you did a good job with the other end of those wires.

As for the eye lug, I used that only on the grounding end of the wiring. As for the terminal pin, I have much experience taking those little shits out. I was careful not to bend or break anything. I heard a definitive "click" when I put the "guide on" wire back in it's new home.

Now for all the other questions I have on how this damn thing works. I'm having fits with both the XM and iPod interface. I know part of it is just adapting to them (coming from a Roady XT and using the Rockford-Fosgate OmniFi for my digital music needs), but I'm sure there are some things that I could learn to make my life easier. I will start a separate post about them once I've totally scoured the FAQ one more time....

Nice looking install...I take it you lost your spare tire?