Okay so it has been just over a week and I have gone over everything again, this making it the second complete review of my work.

All the connections to the Z2 are made except for the Mute, ILL (which nobody on the porsche site knows), and the antenna adapter (which the ones that I have been told about are wrong).

The car is a 2003 911, the amp I am using is a 500/5 JL.

All the connections are up and running and the XM is active enough for me to get the ID off the screen.

The problem that I have is that I am ONLY getting the sub frequencies and nothing else. No fronts. No rears. ONLY SUB channel working.

I have unplugged and plugged in the RCAs again to be sure of a tight fit and nothing works.

Today I get home and actually read the Z2 book to be certain as to what it may be that I need to turn on/off.

I find page 158 of the book that talks about turning the 'Rear SP' button to FULL. Funny thing is that this button is NOT active.

Where oh where have I gone wrong?

I have been prying into the assistance of another user on this board and it isn't fair of me to hound him much longer so I will bug the faithful for help.

Why is the 'Rear Sp' button not active and is this possibly the reason why Front/Rear output to the amp is cut off?

For the record, I have done searches these last 2 days and much of the info that I found didn't seem to be specific to what I have done wrong. Many results were of people grounding out their speaker wires by accident. This isn't the case with me-I checked!

bob.

gone..are ya'll happy now?

dude, you should have pm'd him with that number. your gonna get all kinds of calls now

nah...it's all over the internet anyways.

B-

Take your number down. I got it.

Don't know why I didn't think to ask you in the first place. Too busy kicking my own butt regretting not having this put in by someone else I else.

Sorry I missed your call Bob, I had the damn ringer off and I was wondering why I wasn't getting any calls all night. Kinda made it peaceful for once. lol. Anywho, just give me a call again when you are going to play with the system again so we can test some things out.

Check page 156 in the manual. The source has to be off to change this setting. I believe the default setting is to use the low level sub output. The other setting allows you to use the rear speaker leads to drive a subwoofer directly without an external amp.

Setting the rear output and subwoofer

controller

The navigation system’s rear output can be used

for full-range speaker or subwoofer connection. If

you switch Rear SP setting to the Sub.W, you

can connect a rear speaker lead directly to a subwoofer

without using an auxiliary amp.

Initially, navigation system is set for rear fullrange

speaker connection. When rear output is connected

to fullrange speakers (when Rear SP setting

is Full), you can connect the RCA subwoofer

output (description on the label) to a subwoofer.

In this case, you can select whether to use the

subwoofer controller’s (low pass filter, phase)

built-in amp of the navigation system or the auxiliary

amp or subwoofer.

❒ If you change the subwoofer controller [Rear

SP] or [Preout], [sub Woofer] or [Non Fading]

in the Audio Settings menu return to

the factory settings.

❒ Both rear speaker leads output and RCA rear

output are switched simultaneously in this

setting.

❒ Rear SP can be set only when the source is

OFF.

We got it troubleshot down to the AMP being the issue. The radio is tuned and tested so I am sure that it works. He has the sub channel working fine on the amp but the front and rears on the amp aren't working. He is using a JL 500/5 Slash series amp. We moved the front and rear RCAs over to the sub channel and they work fine. So it tells me with 99% probability that the front and rear channels of the amp are not working. He is taking the amp to have it bench tested today.

I have the amp and 3 authorized dealers lined up to take it to, (assuming some are too busy to do it).

I also have submitted the form to the company that I bought it from to take it back and fix/replace the unit.

JL will also take it back if it is proven to be a defect. I'm still within my 90 warranty on the unit.

B-

Time well spent last night. Thanks for taking time out of your day to help with this. When I got off the phone I tested all the other speaker leads and they all 'pop' which tells me that my connections are sound.

The pity party is over and I am moving on to the trim surround. This part I can do without bowing to needing help!

Awesome,

I think you should be able to get everything ready and buttoned up to the point at which all you have to do is install the amp when you get it fixed or replaced.

Good to hear that you are on track tweety. Hope you get your amp repaired soon. My JL system rocks! You'll enjoy it!

Took the amp to a place on Friday and they confirmed that in fact the channels were not working. They explained that it could be very simple or that when or if the amp reaches JL, they will likely just pull the board out and send it back with a new board inside. We don't know since the vendor I bought it from will decide what to do for me.

So about now the amp should be nearing its home in CA and sometime on Tuesday I should know what the vendors plan of action will be.

But the great thing is knowing that my first install in over 20 years wasn't wrong! My last install was also a Pioneer Supertuner but was back when they first came out with the flat faced units that pulled off for security. Back then I had this issue with not knowing about wire sizes and voltage.

Lucky for me that today everything is labelled well.