First, thank you to all who have contributed to this site, it's great and has answered most of my questions about the Avic line.

Have any users installed a D3 in a 2007 Buick Rainier. A local shop is going to do it for me, but of course won't do the bypass. I even asked them to leave the dash open for me and I would do it, they said it can't be done on their premises. I am not worried about the actual wiring itself, mainly having the dash look normal after I open it back up. Heck, I don't even care about DVD video while driving, I just want the full Nav and Bluetooth functionality.

#1 Any advice on the Buick dash/console and any tools I could get at the local Home Depot etc to keep it looking nice?

#2a: I assume I can just use a few tap connectors for the Parking Brake to Ground and Mute wire to ground , I was just going to use something like this: http://www.radioshack.com/sm-wire-tap-i ... 04093.html

2b: If so, what gauge wire are they? The ground looks bigger on the pics.

Thanks again for all the contributions here.

The install for the D# in the rainier should not be much different from the install of my trailblazer since they are basically the same truck and made by GMC. Are you planning on keeping your door chimes and onstar. If so then your going to need the gmos-04. Also, the dash is pretty easy, i believe it is held in with approx 6 screws. You have to take the light switch out and the rear window wiper switch out, if like the trailblazer, before the dash can be completely removed. Once done, there are 3 screws holding in the OEM deck. Take them out and stick the D3 in

Light switch? You mean the cigarette lighter?

Thought of another question. So if the install place installs it and hooks up the parking brake like it is suppose to, where is the parking brake wire going to be connected to the car. Will it be easy to find to disconnect it and attach to ground , or should I just cut it and attach one end to the ground and tape up the loose end that goes to the vehicle.

Light switch? You mean the cigarette lighter?

 

Thought of another question. So if the install place installs it and hooks up the parking brake like it is suppose to, where is the parking brake wire going to be connected to the car. Will it be easy to find to disconnect it and attach to ground , or should I just cut it and attach one end to the ground and tape up the loose end that goes to the vehicle.

No i mean the head light switch has to come out of the dash during the install. If you are going to have it installed by someone else, then let them deal with the headache of taking the dash out. The parking brake is pretty easy to do, if they hook it up, you can cut the excess wiring off and ground it as normal. The excess wiring can be taken out and thrown away

That's my problem, I specifically asked if they would leave the dash undone until I went to pick it up and I would do the bypass right there in 2 minutes and they could put it back together. They said No. They will not let me bypass it on the premises. I don't want to mess with the whole dash.

I actually followed a friends advice and just ripped the center piece of the console from the top releasing the clamps and I think it comes off enough up top to do the bypass. I can get enough access to get the unit out and could reach back and find the right wires. I'll just clip the Parking brake wire and ground it right there and seal off the loose end of it, then take care of the mute wire.

Just be sure to make your connections secure. Best of luck and let me know how it works.

Got the vehicle back today. Looks great and no problems with the appearance. Only one issue which I found on the drive home. The steering wheel controls work fine while sitting, using ACC. Once the engine is running, the controls don't work well. About 1 in 6 button pushes actually works. I am going to wait to do the bypass until they fix this issue, don't want them blaming the bypass on the problem.

Any ideas on the PESWIPS issue?

Thanks for everyones input on the board , it has been very helpful.

Arrgh. I took it back to the installer today and they "reprogrammed" the PESWIPS. It worked fine when the vehicle was running, but then it was buggy when the vehicle was just in ACC. This is not a big deal because I am not going to be sitting in ACC using the unit.

But, I did the bypass tonight, went fine I thought. Bypass works great, but now the steering wheel controls aren't working right in "ON" or "ACC". Again about 1 in 10 volume presses works, source or seek don't work at all. I wonder if there is a loose connection or something with the PESWIPS? I downloaded the PESWIPS instructions and it doesn't seem too hard to program, so I will probably try that tomorrow. Of course the installer made the comment that their lifetime install warranty is void if there are any modifications. I could of course reverse the bypass and take it back, but I don't know what I would do differently when I went to bypass it again. It's possible I bumped the PESWIPS pulling the unit out. The fact the bypass works makes me think I did it right and had the correct wires.

Any ideas?

Programming the PESWIPS was a piece of cake, it even works in both ACC and ON now. Maybe I know more than the installers . Bypass works awesome. Appreciate all the knowledge and contributions on here.

Glad to hear the good news. Any pics?