Hi Folks,

I've ordered a 7000 to replace a 710 that was stolen, so this is the first time I've had to deal with a VSS connection as the 710 didn't require it.  In searching the web for where to connect it (blue/white wire coming out of the PCM), I came across a couple of threads with debates on how to connect it, so thought I'd ask for input here.  Is there a "correct" or "preferred" method for making the actual connection of the pink wire to the car's VSS wire?  I came across people promoting each of:

1) Using a plastic splice clip

2) Removing insulation from the VSS, twisting the pink cable on and soldering

3) Removing insulation from the VSS, twisting the pink cable on and NOT soldering (something about not soldering to avoiding adding resistance)

4) Tying into the harness connector for the VSS wire either at the speedo or PCM

I've generally used the plastic clips for splicing into things like steering controls and parking brakes in the past, but not having dealt with a VSS connection before, just wanted to ask for input in case that's not the right choice.

Also, on a couple of posts, I came across comments about the type and gauge of wire used to splice into the VSS being important as well to ensure accurate readings.  Any truth in that considering it ends up connected to whatever Pioneer used for the pink wire on the head unit harness?

In case the answer to either question is car specific, it's a 2003 Acura 3.2CL.

Cheers & Thanks,

Brian

I assume you have the proper wire, not going to look it up at the moment.

But in order from best to worst.

1) open up the car wire by slicing off about an inch of insulation. Then evenly spread the copper wire apart, basically make a hole. Then insert the VSS wire after you cut to length, if you wish. Then twist the VSS wire around the car's wire. Closing up the whole as you twist it around it. Then solder it.

2) everything above is the same, except to leave the soldering part out. (This is what I did.)

3) Cut the car's wire. Then twist all three together, the two from the car and the one from the pioneer. And finish by soldering.

4) use the plastic T-clip that you've mentioned.

5) do the same as 3 but leave the solder out.

KOT

soldering is always the best way, i would use wire the same gauge as on the radio and make sure its auto grade wire, and this t-clips have been nothing but problems for me so i never use them

IDC's (insulation displacement connector) are widely frowned upon in the automotive industry.  However, I find them to be quite reliable if used within their size range.  Too big  or small and you get a compromised connection in one form or another.  One thing leading to this is that automotive and aftermarket manufactures typically use metric-sized wire nowadays, rather than AWG-sized wires formerly used... and most of the tap clips are designed for AWG-sized wire.

Has any of you used the Posi-Taps?  They look to be fairly foolproof and reliable... but one cannot always rely on manufacturer or sponsored information ...

I usually tap into it wires using your option 3. Done properly, this has worked for me for a lot of years without issue in a plethora of vehicles. The splice-type connectors, on the other hand, seem to invariably come loose and fail over time.

Besides, depending on where you are able to tap the VSS wire, soldering may or may not even be practical. I installed a NEX-8000 in an older CR-V recently where the only place to get at the VSS wire was in the PCM behind the glove box. I was able to access about 2 inches of the wire while upside down, looking up at it, and (basically) standing on my head. Trying to solder that might be possible, but I wasn't going to try it.

Also - as a minor point - the VSS wire isn't technically "required" and the unit will still function without it. Obviously, if you don't connect it, the system won't be able to do error-correction when it loses a GPS signal (such as in tunnels).

Great input!  Thanks very much folks. 

Mine isn't connected and works just fine, but you are correct if I drove in a tunnel it would lose track of itself. Have yet to have that happen. Although I noticed my unit did not adjust the clock one time. Was an hour behind the correct time, but then magically corrected. Not sure if that was related. I have a 6000.

Mine isn't connected and works just fine, but you are correct if I drove in a tunnel it would lose track of itself. Have yet to have that happen. Although I noticed my unit did not adjust the clock one time. Was an hour behind the correct time, but then magically corrected. Not sure if that was related. I have a 6000.

with it connected, it also reacts faster regarding turnoffs, direction changes  etc....

Good to know. Not sure why my installer didn't connect it? Does it have anything to do with allowing me to manipulate the nav while driving? Was reading that with the VSS connect you can't make nav changes when the vehicle is moving. I know he bypassed the e-brake safety feature, so guessing the VSS is related?

Good to know. Not sure why my installer didn't connect it? Does it have anything to do with allowing me to manipulate the nav while driving? Was reading that with the VSS connect you can't make nav changes when the vehicle is moving. I know he bypassed the e-brake safety feature, so guessing the VSS is related?

nope, bypass is same with or without Vss ....

The plastic clips are the worst things to use, soldering and heat shrink tubing is by far the best way to go

Just exactly what are the "plastic clips" y'all are referring to...???

I concur, solder/heat shrink is best.  

This is one version. I use them for testing only, final installs are solder/heat shrink. 

22-18 GA RED INSTANT TAP CONNECTOR IDC WITH STOP