ok so i just installed it, and did the bypass and update and everytime it turns on it says that the parking brake is hooked up wrong. is this normal? because i grounded it. then everytime i turn it on or off i get a loud pop thru my speakers... what did i do to cause this? thanks for the help!
Did you reset?
no, ill try that.. you think thats it?
ok that doesnt seem to make a difference. loud popping when the unit is turned on or off is still a problem. is it possible to turn the z2 off without shutting off the car?
What kind of car? You may need a cap on the remote turn on.
As for turning it off, hold down AV and it should source itself to Off. You will still get navi prompts though
You could need a cap, but I doubt it. If you are just adding a time delay for the remote turn on (I wouldn't do an RC with out knowing the R), I have never seen any amp that needed that, but I'm sure they exist. Just never ran it to those myself. I think they are pretty rare.
Or you might need a regulator or something too.
http://www.sminntech.com/ampinterface.html
Make or buy, doesn't matter. But it depends on your car and what is in there from the factory.
ok so i threw a 3k resistor on the remote turn on and the start up pop is gone but there is still a turn off pop.... any ideas?
What kind of car do you have? You might want a voltage regulator instead of just a resistor.
I know for a fact that a lot of Ford products use a 5V (or close) signal to turn the amp on. The Z1/2 is a 12V signal and will cause a pop. Ducatiboy's regulator cures it. You may need to dig into your original wiring and either hook up your factory radio and measure the signal or see if you can get a service manual to tell you what you require.
I had a pop when I was using a PAC line out converter to allow me to use an aftermarket amp and subs, which sat behind my factory Bose amp. I never did figure out what caused it, I hooked it up as per PAC's instructions, using their remote turn on....
I think the LO converter was bad, as not only did I always get that pop, but if my subs hit hard, the sound from the speakers(subs and factory) would cut out like as if the subs caused the disc to skip...funny part about it was that the sound wouldn't cut out if I were listening to FM radio....
now, with the Z2, I'm using a PAC interface adapter, returned my Bose factory amp to normal, and using the remote turn on from the PAC interface(off the Z2), I no longer get the pops and the sound never cuts out...not to mention that my subs hit 10x harder and sounds 100% better now...
although line out converters usually suck as for sound quality, the sound cutting out and the pop makes me think that it was just a faulty piece from the day I bought it...
the only other difference between the LO converter and the interface, is that the converter did retain factory chimes/warnings(GM), whereas the interface adapter does not
in the past, I have also ran 12v from a fusable source that would power on/off with the vehicle's ignition, to my amps. I would just run a jumper from the amp's 12v to it's remote turn on. Although it's not really a great idea, but my point being is that I never got that pop when rigged as such...
again, I'm just putting that out there. as I know that the pop is annoying. and you may need to look into the adapter that you used, especially if you have an upgraded/premium sound option.
Did you grounded your adapter to the same ground as the parking brake?