Camelot One

Recently updated firmware, and started noticing that the POI Search By Name function no longer works.

Example: Doing a PIO search around current position, restaurants, Pizza Hut - returns all restaurants. The same seems to be true for every PIO category, including searching at the root.

 

note - I haven't seen this issue posted anywhere else, so it is possible the problem is isolated to my unit.

I agree, but I wasn't talking about turn around time to the device. I still can't get Teleatlas to correct the problem in their database, which is step 1 of a dozen before it gets to a Pioneer nav disc.

Teleatlas puts my house on the opposite side of the circle from where it really is. Not only does it screw up my GPS, but the units UPS uses too. I've been trying to get it corrected for more than a year.

I am having the same issue.quote]

Did you also install an EU update on a US unit?

Just wanted to say thanks to you and everyone else who has put work into this. I really like the results, and appreciate your efforts.

Question that stands out in my mind is why did they replace the unit with a 900 when D3's are still available?

I am still trying to figure that one out myself. My first thought was price, with everything built in and being the current model, I thought maybe they got a better price on a new F series. But after seeing the bill, that isn't the case. In fact the charges are so high I now want to get into the insurance-replacement-equipment business. Loan sharks don't have a profit margin as high as these guys.

I used to own a D3, and the bluetooth was good enough that most people couldn't tell I was using a handsfree system. But it was stolen. The insurance company replaced it with an F900BT.

 

And I've found the bluetooth to simply suck. On the other end, callers hear wind/hissing, even when the car is off, windows up, no other sounds but my voice. On my end, I head lots of digital noise, and often times compression cuts that result in being able to hear every 3rd word the other person says. (I've tried moving the mic, replacing the mic, even using a Parrot mic, all with the same result)

 

I looked at using a Parrot unit tied into the system, but my installer says the better option would be to use the CD-BTB200 module. I wasn't aware you could do that, and it's not listed as being compatible. But that could just be because Pioneer sees listing it as unneccessary, with built in bluetooth and all.

 

Has anyone tried it? I hate to drop the money on the module just to find out I can't use it. I'm not sure how I'd tell the F900 to use the external rather than the internal.

I'm wondering if one of the actual Parrot mics might work. I haven't been able to find info on the plugs, but surely the quality is better than this $2 POS that came with the Pioneer. (which BTW, they charge over $40 to replace!)

I moved to the F900 after using the D3 for more than a year. There isn't a single day that goes by that I don't miss my D3. Not that the D3 was perfect, it was far from it, but comparing the two is just a joke.

 

The F900 takes forever to bootup, lacks the staging features, the bluetooth absolutely sucks compared to just about every other unit or handsfree kit on the market, and is riddled with bugs. (see....always switches to Nav after a phone call for instance)

 

I view it as the typical windows based product. It sorta does what you want, but to get it to do anything well you have to modify it yourself. And I view firmware 2.0 as beta .9, they still have a long way to go before its ready for prime time. Too bad Pioneer doesn't see it that way.

Hello - anyone try these cheaper cameras on ebay. I am currently considering this one:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/CAR-REAR-VIEW-BACKU ... dZViewItem

 

 

However, I have some reservations given that it's a CMOS technology.

 

just bought mine today off ebay. i will send an update soon as i see what's going on with the product. so far i've read the feedback on these items and they just seem to get pretty good reviews

 

I installed the ebay camera last night. Overall I'd say it is well worth the $30 shipped price. Its probably not as nice an image as the $200 versions (though I haven't personally seen them) but it does a good enough job for a reverse cam. I have absolutely no trouble with the image at night, which was my biggest concern in a cheap cam. The viewing angle is perfect for me.

 

I do have 2 minor complaints. The first is image stretching. It looks like the camera itself is capturing at 4:3, which is then stretched to widescreen on the display. Its not a big deal, it just makes things look a little wider than they really are. The second complaint is that while the camera can be tilted up and down on the frame, I couldn't figure out any way to actually lock it at an angle. Its lacking a tension point. There are 4 screws on the back, but tightening them did nothing. Fortunately for me the cable runs out the top, and when pressed against the plate holds the camera itself at just the right angle.

I'm not sure which of the Pac steering wheel interfaces the Z2 uses, but I was able to go from the D3 to the 900BT and reuse the same SWI-PS, no reprogramming needed. The only catch is that at the moment presets aren't supported on the F series, AFAIK everything else works just fine.

I am suprised no company makes an infared reciever that plugs in.

Not much market for it. Most manufacturers don't cut corners by leaving off the $2 IR receiver.

I am interested in the ebay version too. Let us know how it works out.

A thief made off with my D3 christmas eve, the insurance company replaced it with the 900BT.

 

To answer your first question, the differences between the 90BT and the 900BT:

90BT has 4V rca output

90BT includes the ipod composite cable ($50 separately)

90BT has a 2 year warranty instead of the standard 1 year.

 

Those are the only differences.

 

Now....would I choose to upgrade from the D3 to the 900BT? No. My out of the box thoughts:

1. 900BT bluetooth sucks compared to the D3. Takes forever to connect, and calls sound like crap on both ends.

2. 900BT maps LOOK nicer, but without modding, they aren't anything different in the way of data.

3. 900BT takes FOREVER to boot up. And unlike the D3, the steering wheel controls don't work until the unit is fully booted. (can't hit mute or volume down for example)

4. 900BT lacks all of the "staging" options the D3 had, and thus doesn't have nearly the sound of the D3.

5. The voice activation stuff is pretty much a gimmick in my opinion. I was born and raised in the US, I have no accent, and I speak proper English. But the 900BT understands me 60% of the time at best. And the "Activation" button can't be assigned through the PAC interface, so you still have to hit the button on the unit just to get it to listen for a command.

 

On the other hand, the 90BT/900BT is winCE based, so it's moddable. And I always like things I can make changes to. Spend some time browsing through the different things people on the forum have done to get an idea of whats possible.

 

If I were faced with a choice of the D3 or the 900BT, it would be a toss up. But I certainly wouldn't buy a 900BT if I still had the D3.

I don't even get artist/track info on the HD stations. I do get the station name (rather than just the frequency) but thats it. It always shows "No Text" for the artist/track name.

When we are lucky, Pioneer fixes problems. But new features, better options....they call that "the next line". Why give it to you for free, when they can use it as motivation to sell you another $1000 unit?

For those having issues with clicking the X and other menus in WinCE....

 

From the front end (normal operation) run through the screen calibration, using a stylus. This step is important.

THEN enter testmode. I still have trouble clicking the X sometimes, but it's based on it's location on the screen. You can grab and move the entire window from the title bar (big blue bar across the top. I drag down and to the left a bit, and then have no trouble hitting the X to close it.

That sounds like an entirely different problem. Check your wiring, when I was looking up reviews on some of the Boyo cams, I found a lot of people reporting the lines melting and shorting out.

What is the correct way to wire the backup camera.

There are 4 wires involved. The first two are the camera ground and video signal wires. In your case these two are wired correctly.

 

The reverse trigger can be wired to the transmission reverse switch (uncommon), to the ECM (not available in all cars) or to the reverse light wiring itself. I believe the installation manual instructs you to do the latter. In any of these cases, when the AVIC picks up a signal on the "Reverse" wire, it switches to the reverse camera input. In your case, this seems to be working.

 

YOUR PROBLEM:

The last wire is the 12v+ for the camera itself. A lot of installers go the quick and easy route and just tap the reverse light + to get this power. The logic being its a "reverse" camera, rather than a rear view, and would only need power while in reverse. Doing it this way saves them from running a new power line. Unfortunately it means the camera flat out doesn't work if you aren't in reverse.

 

TO FIX IT:

To wire it correctly, you need a 12v switched power signal to the camera. This would give the camera power anytime the car is on, allowing you to manually view it, while the AVIC would also auto switch to it when in reverse. If you are lucky enough to have daytime running lights that also power the tail lights, its a simple matter of moving the + wire from the reverse light to the tail light. (make sure you get the tail light, and not the brake light) If you don't have full on tail lights, you'll need to find another way to get 12v power to the camera when the car is on, rather than only when it's in reverse.

Mine looks different from the one pictured in the example shown on their site. it is housed in a smaller blue plastic box. Just figured it was a newer revision of the adapter.

I just received the blue one too. The box says SWI-PSV1, though I would expect something newer than the original to be a 1.something or even v2. Not sure if this is something new, or just an exterior box change.

I'm replacing a D3 with the 900BT. Pioneer parts lists a different part number for the GPS antennas, but the plugs look identical. Does anyone know if I can get away with using the D3's GPS antenna? I'd like to avoid spending hours ripping the dash out again.

My biggest gripe with Pioneer's AVIC series is the lack of an "off" button/option. Not only does the unit itself stay on all the time, the "remote/amp" wire stays hot, even when you turn the screen off. The only way to completely power down the unit when the car is on is to install an inline switch.

Well the thief took my ipod too, though the insurance company won't cover it. My guess is any of the current models should work.

I wonder why they did it this way. With my other Pioneer deck it only needs the usb to get audio and fully control the ipod.

That one I can answer. $$$. Why let people use the free cable that came with the ipod when you can charge $50?

I've tried searching the forums, and I've turned up numerous posts about the IPod composite cable being required for video, but is it needed if I just want audio? My D3 was stolen last week, and the insurance company is replacing it with the AVIC-F900BT. But they are fighting me on replacing the ipod cable, which they consider an "un-mounted accessory" like the ipod itself.

 

It looks like a standard USB plug that comes off of the F series, so can't I just plug in the normal ipod USB-only cable to get audio? Or will I need to shell out the $50 for the composite cable?