heron

My D3 has served me well. I have had a Boyo VTL300 on the back of my truck for sometime now with no issues.

I'll be getting a 35' travel trailer and I'd like to mount a second BU camera on the back of the trailer.

Can anyone tell me if I hook the 2nd camera up to the unused other video inputs if it will/can work for the second camera if I hit the different input button on the D3? Problem I'm thinking it will always default to the reverse camera on the back of my truck when in reverse and won't allow me to pull up the other input...right?

My other thought is to get some type of video switch, maybe something like a toggle and simply switch the video input to the trailer camera since I won't be using the rear truck one while the trailer is hooked up anyway.

But, do I simply hook up the new camera exactly as the original one and tap the same wires.?

If the video splitter is the way to go can anyone recommend an inexpensive small one that I could easily switch under the dash or something?

The boyo sales manager told me the camera I'm looking at the boyo VTB100 comes with only 22' of wire but he said I'd have no issue extending it with a longer RCA and longer power and ground wires....Could the length cause any issues...

I need to rig it so all I'd have to do is unplug it at the hitch and it would be could do go...maybe a few quick connects..?

I'm wondering if I'd lose lots of clarity or something.

The camera was bad. New camera fixed it... Boyo had no problem replacing the camera. Give them a call.

I've had the D3 and VTL300 hooked up for about 8 months. No issues. Out of the blue I have a blank screen. It still says "objects appear closer" but it will not work in reverse or when I select rear view. I took the HU and checked all connections. Everything looked solid. I unwrapped the electrical tape around the connectors back at the license plate and that looked fine. We have lots of rain over the last few days but my truck really has not been out very much in the rain. Has anyone had any defective Boyo's and if so how can I test it to find out just what has gone bad. I rechecked the ground and power and could not find any loose wires which is what I was hoping for... any ideas? TY in advance!

turn your switch on, and try watching the face plate as you turn the key on,

 

my LCD & back light do work, no matter the temp,

 

but if i crank the motor while it still says "starting Pioneer navigation"

 

it won't work.

 

 

i have to wait to let the unit boot to the first background picture shows, then crank the truck.

Yes, I had the same experience exactly!

here's how to figure it out:

 

open the door, STARE at the face plate

 

put key in, and turn key on.

 

my radio lights up "starting pioneer navi...."

 

if i let it boot all the way up to the start up picture, it works.

 

if i don't let it boot, and just crank the truck, it may not work.

 

 

 

(FWIW, i think it may not be due to the boot function (but could be) i think it may be related to a large capacitor in the D3 being energized long enough to hold a charge while the truck is cranking)

 

i think there is a large Capacitor in the D3, because it doesn't turn off when you crank the truck, like a regular radio,

 

and when you turn the key off, the radio takes a few seconds to go off.

 

they may do that with some fancy delay, but a nice fat capacitor on the Accessory input would do the same.

 

??? hth ???

You must be right because no matter what I've done from different modules to relays it still doesn't work right. I ended up just putting a rocker switch in and just totally shut the radio off at night when I get home and then in the am when I get in the truck after remote starting it I just flip the switch and start it up. I think if we had the ability to totally shut off the D3 we would not need a switch but without that function I think it will always be an issue when it's cold and the voltage is not optimal. Maybe with an Alpine or Kenwood you could completely power them off, therefore I think I'd go with another unit now if I had it to do over.

IIRC,

 

my radio attaches directly to the wire from vehicle for battery power.

 

but the CANBUS adapter (circuit card thingy) does control the accessory (cycles the unit on/off)

 

i can hook my accessory wire to my left cigarette lighter (controller by Acc position of key) and bypass that CANBUS thing.

 

might as well try that, if i am in there taking DVM readings.

 

 

for the tires, i had 100 PSI in the stock tires (rated 80psi normal use) trying to squeek a little extra MPG out of them.

 

and they ride about the same.

 

the wider tires follow ruts pretty bad, but other than that, they are Ok.

 

these have less sidewall sway, so that takes a lot of "body roll" out of the truck in cornering (the body doesn't lean, so the wife don't notice how fast i am going....)

Sound like a good idea on bypassing whatever electronics you can to isolate the issue.

Not sure if you can get them for your truck but Frederico Sway bars and Bilstein shocks. My truck doesn't handle like a truck at all but was a joke before I added the shocks and sway bars. Best upgrade I've done.

update:

 

mine has done it every day since you posted....

 

so this morning, i watched it.

 

if you turn the key on, the screen will WORK...it shows the boot screen

(starting Pioneer navi....)

 

so the LCD and the backlight are working at low temps.

 

but when i started the truck (heavy current draw) the screen did not come back on.

 

so it looks like you need a stiffening capacitor on the radio itself.

 

 

called Crutchfield (bought my unit from them) they asked me to take a DVM and measure the voltage drop while starting the truck.

 

they said they can swap the unit out if i want.

 

but if you have swapped 3, sounds worthless to me, to swap it & lose my address book.

I'm beginning to think it's a bad module on the GMOS harness I used. I'll be getting a new harness from Metra and I'll let you know. The module on the harness is what controls the current delivery etc... so if it is bad or finicky then you end up with functional issues. I spoke with the tech at Metra and he told me to power the module from another source and that actually made it worse so I do believe it has something to do with the harness... saga continues

On another subject does that truck ride pretty rough with those low profile tires?

FWIW, mine is a diesel too.

 

but i think the screen is the problem.

 

maybe it sees a low voltage on startup, but HifI said it is common in cold temps, regardless of the vehicle.

I agree and think HIFI doesn't know the parameters. It's like 22f and above 185f.

What temps is your truck doing it and if so will it do it only that one time in the am and then never again the rest of the day? I agree with the voltage issue. I really think it has something to do with the power zap from the glow plugs or maybe going from acc(glow plugs on) to start it shuts down again when it's booting and it just cannot get the LCD started in time...? I'm reaching but this is getting ridiculous. I'm in the dark and it seems lots of other installers are clueless also and keep blaming it on the cold and are ignoring the facts..

it's nothing to do with your truck

 

 

it's your weather.

 

the backlight doesn't work in cold weather.

 

put a switch in your accessory line.

 

after the interior warms up, cycle the switch, and that resets the unit, and for some reason, the back light will come on.

 

mine has done this twice, but it's got to be below freezing (rare in SC)

No, I don't think it's the weather. These units are supposed to work down to 22f. I've had the same issue at 45f and 30f. This is the third unit and each one has done it. It seems I'm hearing this more often to do with diesel trucks but have not heard from anyone with it installed in a car unless it's really cold... below 22f or so. The vendor I bought it from has been cooperative and has sent me two replacement units since October. He said he sells lots of these units in very cold climates and has only heard of this happening when it's really frigid. I wouldn't say 45f or even 30f is really frigid. Also, if I shut the vehicle off and turn it right back on even within seconds the screen will come right up. If it was primarily a cold issue why would it come up when the cabin temp has not changed one bit...? I think it's some kind of voltage drop or something somewhere between accessory and start.. but I'm no electrical guru.

I've posted before regarding the black screen on startup. I'm on my 3rd unit made in November and it does the same thing. The unit is installed in an 07 GMC Sierra with a Duramax. I also have an Astrostart 2505A. I have the wait to start wire hooked up for the glow plugs so they will work and the truck will start right afterwards. For whatever reason when it's cold and the glow plugs have to light for their full duration when my truck is first started the LCD will be black. Now, once it's started and shutdown and started again(glow plugs don't light and if they do it's not long) it's okay and the LCD comes right up and will do so for the rest of the day. I've been thru 3 head units since October and it's still not right. Pioneer has no clue, the metra harness people have no clue and the Astrostart people have no clue.

I think it has something to do with power being sapped by the glow plugs on startup and it will not allow the head unit to fully boot. It seems like somewhat of a common problem with diesels, Ford's, GM etc...

Do any of you electrical guru's have any idea of where to start?

I was going to run a constant battery source to the yellow wire(acc) on the Metra harness. BTW: this unit also has been bypassed...

The version that came with the D3 is the latest version of the nav disk. And copies should work fine unless they're burned on to crappy media.

Is there a place online that I can just download it?

Thank you!

I tried to search for something on this but could not find anything concrete. I just purchased my D3 about 2 months ago. I sent my HU back to the dealer for a startup "black" screen problem. Pioneer tech said it may be the disc so I sent that back with it. The vendor sent me back a crappy refurb'd unit and didn't include my East disc and the vendor now says he'll send me a copy.

Are the copies okay and if so what version should I make sure I receive, in other words, what's the latest?

I'm sending back the refurb'd unit also. Front right channel/volume is not acting correctly and it's not my speaker.

How long did it take to get your unit back from Pioneer? I'm just trying to figure out when to schedule down time on the truck to pull the dash apart (again) to put the unit back in.

I had to send my unit back to the vendor I bought it from. Turns out he is not an authorized dealer so somehow he either sends it back to them himself or has other ways of dealing with it... I should have bought my HU from Crutchfield

It took about 10 days to get it back from start to finish but they sent me a crappy refurb'd unit that didn't work right so it went back again and so far I've incurred about $42 in shipping charges...

I don't think I'd buy another Pioneer. I just got my unit back and it is a refurbished unit. I wouldn't have minded if the unit was ever right but it was screwed up since it was installed. I told the vendor I bought if from but have not heard anything back from him. I could see if I had it for a couple of months and it was operating properly and then just broke but paying full price for a refurbished unit is crap!

Is this normal for them to do this?

Anyhow, tomorrow I'll get it put back in and see what happens. If it still doesn't work I'm going to demand a brand new one or demand my money back. P

I'm experiencing a similiar problem. I drive an 07 Chevy with a duramax diesel. I first had the problem when it got cold. The first time it happened to me I turned the key to on and waited for the wait to start light to go off (glow plugs), while I was waiting the unit started like normal. It was in the middle of its loading process (the one with my custom picture, not the text it has right at first) and I turned the key to start. This is when the screen went blank. It looks to me that the screen back light is on, but there is no picture. I have audio, but it's like there is no video going to the screen. If I skip the wait to start it usually works like normal, or if I wait until it gets past the loading screen it will work like normal. I am thinking about adding another accessory wire from the one under the dash in addition to the one you get out of the harness. I will use a diode or a relay to make it work right. Any thoughts????

I think it's the head unit. If it were the wiring it would do it throughout the day. I thought the same thing with my glow plugs. First I thought it was my remote start then I thought I needed an extra wire connected and then I thought it was the GMOS-04 harness.

My d3 also blacks out on start up but not all the time mostly in a.m. When it does the lights on the d3 come on for 2 seconds and then the screen is black but will come on if i restart. Unit is in a 05 silverado diesel. Is it possible to I need to wire the power in different.

That's interesting. My trucks an 07 with the duramax. I used a metra GMOS-04 harness. Not sure why you would have to wire it in differently...?

I thought about that and thought maybe it was due to my Astrostart remote start but it does it when I remote start it or key start it. Unless the harness is screwed up but then why would it do it normally once the truck is started and for the rest of the day? I would think if it was wiring it would do it regardless of temperature and it would do it throughout the day but once my truck is started in the am it does not do it the rest of the starts during the day...

It seems worse when it's cold (ok it doesn't ever really get cold here...cool). Did you get an RMA # from Pioneer? When I called, the instructions didn't give me confidence.

No, I'm sending back to the vendor I bought it from and he's handling it....at least I hope he'll handle it correctly.

2005 Ford F250 Super Duty Diesel. I'm going to be calling Pioneer tomorrow AM to get an RMA # and ship it back for warranty work. I've messed around with it enough to figure out it's *not* the disks. It's at the point now where resetting it is not a reliable way to get it working again (yesterday at one point I had to reset it 5 times before I could finally use it).

Does your truck just do it in the morning or throughout the day? Mine just does it in the am but once it's warm it works fine. I'll be sending mine back within the week...

This is exactly what my unit is doing. Sometimes by shutting down the truck and restarting it (again not good for a diesel) it'll come back. Most of the time however, I have to "reset" the head unit to get functionality back.

 

I'm going to send it back to Pioneer as soon as I can be without the truck for more than a few days.

What kind of truck? Mine does not do it every time. It does it sometimes if I remote start it or key start it...?

that wierd.. i had a similar problem... turned out my backup navi disc was scratched. replaced it and the problem went away!

Was that on the D3? I think it would do it more frequently during the day if that was my issue. It only does it when the vehicle is first started in the morning.... Did your unit just do it in the morning?

Okay, the screen just stays black on startup in the am with or without the remote start. This a.m. I key started it and the LCD would not come up. I backed my truck up to a trailer, shut it down, hooked up the trailer, fired it up and the HU booted up normally and the LCD was visible. Started the truck 5 or more times today and the unit worked fine. When I got home tonight I sat in the truck and remote started it. The LCD booted up normally.

I don't get it but I think Pioneer has a problem with these units. I really thought I'd avoid this buying a Pioneer. Guess I should have gone with the Valor afterall...

Okay,

The screen being blank on startup may have something to do with my remote start. It seems when I remote start it it does it but even after I put the key in and turn it the HU still is blank. The only cure is to shut it off and start the truck again. Not good for a diesel...

I have an Astrostart 2505A... Any ideas what it could be or why?

try putting a wire around the ground of the rca and ground it, also run the wires outside of the carand see if it still happens. if you have a small tv hook up the backup cam directly to the tv. try wrapping the signal wires in foil and split loom it.

Can you explain in greater detail. What do you mean by putting the wires outside the car? Signal wires in foil and split loom it? Grounding the RCA?

I know the outside of the RCA is the ground but how do you get a wire to attach to it securely?

I have the Boyo License plate cam and 2 headrest monitors hooked up to my Z1. The screen in the front is perfectly clear, but in camera mode it looks like engine interferance as well as the rear screens in dvd mode. There is no whining or whistling in the speakers. If I have the Navigator key turned in accessory mode (no engine running) the rear screens are clear. I have 2 more headrests with screens built in for the 3rd row, and a 17" dropdown screen ready to install after I fix this issue. Does anyone have a good solution?

I've got the same issue with my D3 and my BU camera from Boyo. Mine is perfectly clear with the engine off but there is some slight ghosting when my truck is running. I put a noise filter on the power wire for the camera but it didn't help. I tried a different ground for the camera but that didn't help. I think it has something to do with the Boyo. I had a Sanyo BU camera that I returned but it didn't have the interference the Boyo has and the Boyo is hooked up exactly the same way the Sanyo BU camera was. I returned the Sanyo due to poor quality for the price. I've heard I may have to run a power and ground for the camera to the battery and put in a relay of some type. I have not tried a noise filter on the ground...

Hate to break it to ya, but 45 degrees Fahrenheit is pretty cold to most people (not me though, I love cold weather)

 

This has happened to me once or twice, I am not really concerned. From what I've read, it is possible the screen will go black when it's too hot or too cold. When it first happened to me, I pulled over, turned the truck off, opened the door and closed it, started my truck back up and it was good

 

My friend's Kenwood 6019 jams up when it's too hot outside so I guess it isn't just ours

Mine did it again today. Once I shut my vehicle off and then started it again the screen came up. Something must not be right. Everything the manual says about the screen not showing has to do with the emergency brake but I have done the bypass on my unit so not sure what to do. I have not read anybody else having this issue on here so I may be returning my unit. I just installed it about 3 weeks ago. Don't drive this truck every day so I'm worried that it is a real problem. I probably have about 3 hours total on the HU as of today...

I know the install is good. I did put a noise filter on the power line in hopes it would help the ghosting on my rear view camera when the truck is running. Maybe that has something to do with it...?