bluebsh

You should update the firmware (latest is version A23, then double check the instructions on the Axxess web site. Each car has their own little quirks when it comes to programming. Also, not all hook up with the same wires even though they might be from the same car manufacture. If all else fails, call Axxess. They have a great support team.

I had to go through the reprogram process around 10 times before it worked.... it was being VERY finikey with the programming... but it's working now thankfully

although I love how they call the orange green wire the "yellow green" wire... when it's clearly orange... only way I caught that was because of their pin out saying that it was yellow/green on pin 3

I've mentioned this in other posts, but I've learned the ASWC-1 needs a very strong connection to work, may need to use butt connectors or solder them since twisting the wires together doesn't always work.

 

I also would see if there is a firmware update for the unit. Be careful if you have the older version of the unit since a normal usb cord may fry it, you'll need their usb cable for do it. Their newer versions of that unit use normal USB cords.

 

Not sure about the connect to smartphone thing... I can say that it has gone away for me. It used to come up but after connecting a phone, it no longer shows up even when there's no phone connected.

I've tried pairing smart phones to it to get it to go away, but it still shows it...... probably because I have a phone that's not on the "approved" list of phones....

Just upgraded my old AVIC-Z2 to the 8100 NEX... yeah huge change... but now some questions

1) I keep getting a red bar on top saying connect a smart phone, what if I don't want to? is there anyway to suppress that message? I get it once per startup.

2) I have an ASWC-1 which has been in this car for about 2 years now, worked great with the Z2, but after switching it to the 8100NEX no wheel buttons work... is there anything special needed to be done?  It's connected the same exact way it was before... this is a 2008 grand prix base, the orange/green (they say yellow green in the instructions but there is no yellow green, only orange green) from the ASWC harness to pin A7 of the GM car harness... which is also an orange / green wire. thats how it was before and is again but no luck... tried to reprogram it but got nothing...

Any idea on when 2009 map's will be out for the Z Serise?

I have one on ebay right now, brand new... its up to almost $80 though http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... :IT&ih=016

Is there any problems with just doing the $5 HDD Unlock wizard and not the repair station? I have the entire Z3 Acronis True Image Image I dont care about what's on the drive, nothings stored there yet... So if I ran the $5 one and blanked out the drive then restored the TIB image to the drive everything should just work? or do I absoutly have to use the Repair Station unlock and preserve something? Thanks

I still have the z2 image, but not on a torrent or download. May I ask why you want a z2 image rather than a z3 image? I may be able to help you out.

Oh a friend wanted the Z2 maps because they have a Z1 and roads are missing but Z3's maps have the roads wrong... so they wanted to take their Z1 to a Z2... but we only wanted to tackle it if we could just download it.. thanks anyways!

I know it's old now but does anyone have a torrent up for it or anything that I could download it from? thanks!

Well Pioneer is supose to have these disc's up here soon... for Z-1 and Z-2 users.. anyone have any idea if this does the firmware and software upgrades also or do we still need to do the hard drive upgrade to get that also?

what type of drive did they send you? a standard laptop drive or an automotive drive?

Is there anyone out there that can upgrade my factory hard drive with the Z3 image and guarantee that they will give me the same exact drive back? Already had one joker claim I could send me the drive they'd "upgrade it" to Z3 and send it back... well on ebay their feedback says they dont send the original automotive drive back... which I WANT! I want the low / high temp ability of the drive... 4 degrees above zero to 160 degrees is a major range compared to 41 degrees to 130 degrees (not so great for a car in the winter or summer)... anyone out there that can do this and return the same exact drive? with the same serial number for proof... thanks!

I have a Dell too. All I have to do is to plug the drive to an IDE cable by itself and it works. Of cource you have to change the settings in the BIOS.[/quote

 

Not that easy on this dell... the dell does not recognize Master/Slave at all... only cable select... which I think is BS... but according to Dell's manual for the comp, the only drives it will recognize are ones set to cableselect mode and after testing it, it's true... what model do you have? The only BIOS settings I have are Off and CableSelect for the type of drive... my comps before that one (which i dont have anymore) had Off Master/Slave and CableSelect

I'm a Comp Sci person so don't tell me this is too complex for me to do

but here is my problem, has anyone did this on a dell system before? All the systems I have are Dell and they all require cable select mode! none work with master/slave you have 2 choices in the BIOS setup for the hard drive controller... OFF or Auto Cable Select... I tried the drive as master on its secondary IDE channel but it didn't detect it at all.. thought wierd... so tried the systems main hard drive in master mode and it wouldn't detect it either... only in Cable select mode would it ever work... so rejumpered the main HDD to CS and went online to look up this toshiba automotive drive's jumper settings... found how to switch it to CS mode... but still doesnt work! not sure if this drive has different jumpers or not... couldnt find specific jumper settings for it only "older models" jumper settings for notebook drives and "newer model" jumper settings... tried them both.. none worked... put it back in my AVIC-Z2 and drive works... so its not the drive itself... kinda think it's dell's IDE controller being stupid with the required cable select mode... so I ordered today a PCI IDE controller for my newer SATA only system to try on there... hopefully this IDE card has master/slave mode and works! if not might be my 2.5 to 3.5 inch IDE adapter thats bad... just bought it though... for a whole $3... IDE card was a whole $9 so, so far not too far money wise into this... anyone else every have this problem with a dell system doing this? i only have one dell system with IDE to test this on the other 2 have SATA only...

There is a picture somewhere in this forum about how to replace the flex cable, that document also tells you how to take apart the system. Might want to search for that.

Is there any way to tell if the flex needs replaced? I am looking at it right now and dont see any cracks in it. doesit have to actually rip to not work? or is there cases where the wires inside break and you can't really see it?

This one is just wierd... my screen pulls out system turns on... touch screen works makes sound like its working but the screen is blank! ontop of that none of the buttons are lit up on the screen or the face plate (this is an AVIC-N2) they dont lite up but work when pressed... anyone have any idea what is going on here? or how to fix it? it took the system apart to check if it was the flex cable but it looks like its in good shape... no rips, tears or anything noticably wrong with it... im flat out stumped...

No one knows?

I have a N2 right now all wired up and want to go to N4... do I have to replace all the harnesses and stuff or can I Keep the existing wireing and just put the new head unit and brain in?

also, does the screen on the N4 look any better then the N2? I saw its a little bigger, is the contrast or color any better? thanks!

When will the N series ever do text to speech during navigation? the one thing i dont like is the fact it doesnt say road names... yet it can say the names of items in your address book in the N2 model at least!... so why can't it say road names? is the N4 any different? any plans for this in new versions?

I have an N2 right now and its time for an upgrade.. so here are some questions

1) The screen sounds like its a little bigger, is this true?

2) Is the screen any better quality? Contrast, color, etc?

3) How is the iPod interface? I heard it finally works like the iPod?

4) Is the response time

5) Is it true that you can change the button illumination colors? I heard there is two choices and that red is one of them? Wanted red for a while to match my car's lighting..

6) Any word on a bypass yet? It's always been annoying when your going somewhere and you have to change a route for some reason and cant because of the lockout...

7) One thing that always bugged me was the annoying nag screen that says "this navi product is not intended..." blah blah blah every time you turned your car on... is there any way yet to say yes fine I get it stop telling me this?

thanks!

I dont know where in Kansas you live, but from here to New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and Vermont, all is fine. And I am talking about back roads and mountain roads also. As mentioned, tell TeleAtlas via their feedback site so they know and can correct the issues you claim in their next release.

Kansas? I live near Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania... and soon as I find the site they will be getting a long list...

as for my other item... why don't they color areas anymore? the largest public univeristy in the state isn't even on the map anymore!... they use to color it's area purple... grave yards gray, and malls / shopping brownish.. (the land they are on that is)

How do I tell Telleatlas how to fix it? I can't do what I don't know

as for the disc's themselves... I sure hope they are real, I bought them straight off Pioneers website, they came in a cardboard box about 2 cd's high and about 10 inches long... the discs are red... so I sure hope they are real

Whats up with the CND70 discs? I thought they should have more then the 60's the 60's marked where universities where in purple... graves and hospitals in gray... town boarders in yellow... these maps have none of that... ontop of that the roads in my town I've already found 92 mistakes... including roads not connected to other roads... makes routing a map kinda hard

they are the 70's... but I am HORRIBLY disapointed.. the maps are a lot more inaccurate then the 60's in my area one road littearly goes all over the place and its perfectly fine in 50's and 60's disc's... its pretty much a straight road with a slight curve that goes for a mile...

on the 70's it goes straight about 50 yards... does a sharp right 20 yards... goes straight goes back right makes a large circle comes back goes straight half a mile loops in a U around a train track... turns right... goes BACKWARDS! then comes back to the exit of the road.. and then parts of some of the roads arn't even connected on the maps where they should start and end... they just have blank space... which confuses the traffic routing thinking ok that road I cant turn onto... I dont know I thought this would be an improvement... but its a BAD one.... a really bad one for where I am... although they did fix a road that as messed up on teh 50's and 60's maps... it was freeway that showed up as a straight line when it was actually curved for 3 miles...... thats fixed but now the other roads that were fine are messed up..... so I am disapointed... but the updated POI is nice... more locations now I can see

Purchased the N3 disc's off Pioneers's site (I'd rather have commercial discs then copies as they wear a lot better in extreme conditions)... should be here on the 31st! I'm excited.. were there many map changes in the new version? I know in the past 2 disc sets I've had, a few our the bypasses (freeways) around our town show up as straight lines and don't match the real ones at all... so you'll appear to be driving in the middle of a field in the map...