werty7777

I ran them all down the same side. Sirius, xm, and GPS antennea. Never any problems in either of my vehicles.

Am I really the only one having this problems of both my radios?

Have two 110's both with the upgraded software to make them 120's. Yes I bought the update twice before anyone ask again. The thing is when I am listening to an XM station, turn off the car, and come back to the car later the station art is gone and is just the "satelite" picture. Once I change to any other XM station the station artwork is correct, including switching back to the previous station that didn't diplay correct artwork. I haven't seen anyone else post this and really isn't that big of a deal in the first place, just curious at this point. FYI I'm using the XM Navtraffic tuner GEX-P920XM from my old D3.

For the folks that were wondering, I purchased the upgrade through Amazon from the Price Pros and it came with two cards. I haven't did the upgrade yet though.

Maybe I'm slow, but Captain that was the funniest shit I've ever seen on the forum. I'm still laughing!

Damn Aviator, I'm beginning to believe we are long lost siblings!!!! I once again feel the same way. I have basically two of everything since my wife's truck is outfitted the same way as mine. So having to buy two of all the extras only makes me locked in to Pioneer even further. I still basically love Pioneer's head units regardless of their few problems. After all when describing the Kenwood, "clunky" was an adjective used. All in all we all know that every company has there problems and Pioneers problems are the ones I'm dealing with. I will be on here in 2011 or 2012 when the new Z is released talking about something else.

For what it's worth I miss the XM NavTraffic alot. In fact if my old D3 wasn't DVD based Nav I would of converted back to my D3. Strong statement I guess. But unfornately I have to agree with VBlue and Captain on this one that my beloved XM NavTraffic will never be part of this Z series if ever again. I'm going to cry now.....

Just a thought.... unsure of how much bass is the "right amount" for you. I would personally have to steer you away from that amp purchase though. Never been a fan of the alpine amps until the PDX line came out. I personally believe they kick JL's slash series amps butt. My point is for a few more bucks you could buy last year's PDX-1.600 from an authorized dealer and be happy. Regardless of the bass level desired I would buy the best amp in the price range. http://www.cartoys.com/products/product ... erralID=NA

I had it pushing a 12" Boston G5 and noticed the difference from the JL 500/1 I replaced it with. Now it is pushing a JL13tw5 and just wish that the G5 could comfortably fit in my new truck. My two pennies...

I rarely travel with a route plugged in, due to the nav telling you to stay on I-5 north every 3 miles. LOL. The real use I have with it is the color coded lines and symbols for the road you're on. That way I can just hop off the interstate and hit side streets if I see a need ahead. Really I never planned on using the movie times, gas prices, etc in the first place. I just wanted the traffic portion to do as good as XM Nav Traffic. Of course I knew it wouldn't and it has held true to form. Once again, I knew most of this going in based on this forum. I just figure when you have the back up cam, XM, Sirius (before the merger), steering wheel control module, subs, amps, speakers, ipod cable what was another 80 dollars for the tuner?

Nope, I had MSN direct for 2 or 3 months now and have never had movie info.

In So Cal as well and I get everything you get. I came from XM Navtraffic so the MSN service is quite terrible but what you described is normal to my understanding and it is just something we have to deal with. Hopefully whatever new service they come up with will be better!

The steering wheel control thing is a easy one. You can "train" the PAC to do any of its 14 or so operations with any of your 5 buttons. Meaning simply this leave vol up, vol down, track up, and track down as they are and program your mode button to be your voice recongition button. If you want to change modes you can do this from the VR function. Make sense????

When you say your BT is in your overhead console I'm unsure exactly what you mean. Yes the unit has BT and your stock radio is likely providing your factory BT. So once you take the factory radio out you would lose the factory BT. With the Pioneer BT all you have to do is add the mic. I have an 2008 4 runner which should be roughly the same interior and I ran my Pioneer mic to my overhead center console, drilled a hole in one of the push lights, and placed the mic there. I can post a pic in a day or so if you would like.

Not my truck but i found this pic on the net. I'm talking about the push lamps at the very top of this pic.

http://image.4wdandsportutility.com/f/9 ... terior.jpg

Well done Captain, well done! Especially when the lighting storm strikes!

No problem, glad you got it taken care of.

Makes perfect sense. I have no clue how to help you if you have a good ground. One last experiment I would try is to wrap a bare wire around the outside of the RCA where it connects to the y cable and ground that wire to a screw. Now I know that isn't a permanant solution but atleast you would know it is y cable for sure. Maybe then you can fix it right. But here's what you can use if all else fails. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI1/PA ... ml?tp=2653 Sorry I couldn't help more.

Why would you split the sound to the HR monitors when the sound is coming from the speakers in the car?

Why are you using the Y cable? Your Z feeds the video of the HR monitors right? Or do you have a seperate player to feed the HR monitors? Unsure why I didn't ask earlier but why are you splitting the audio in the first place?

Yes, that's one of the reasons I would change the mode button. You can just say,"change source to FM." The VR commands are on 168 in the manual. The commands that the Pac can support are right here.

http://www.pac-audio.com/swixprogrammin ... les&ID=357

VR is voice recognition. Yes, you need an adapter for the steering wheel controls. You need the Pac that VBLUE42 mentioned in his post. They made to newer versions of the pac with the latest being the one he mentioned. If you only plan to use the steering wheel controls that I mentioned you do not need the 1.68. However, I suggested that you change the steering wheel controls to be what you need most. You have 5 buttons and you can make them basically whatever you want them to be. Probally just confusing you, I know. All these questions can be found in this forum. Spend a few hours just reading the posts on here and it will help you a ton. Or in a pinch use the search function.

Are you talking about the Scion radio cover? Or are you talking about the Avic face opening to access the CD/USB? I had a D3 in my old Scion TC and the Scion radio cover closed with no problem. Hope that helps.

I believe my Scion only had mode, vol up, vol down, track up, and track down. If you only use those functions you wouldn't need the newest version of the pac. If you intend to use the 'mode' button for say VR then you would need the newest version.

Yes and yes. And actually your best bet is to just to solder the wire right to the speaker terminals.

The above post makes zero sense to me talking about the battery. But to answer your questions. Yes you can just switch your RCA's with no problem. Secondly if your amps are staying on, then the remote is not hooked up properly. Usually ran to your amps with a blue wire, it needs to ran to the back of you head unit/ wiring harness to the blue remote wire. Then you can daisy chain it from one amp to another. Obviously, with the keys off, your amps should not be on if wired correctly.

Your on the right track. Almost has to be the ground. Anytime you have engine noise through your speakers it is always the ground or the RCA's running down the same side as the amp power. Generally speaking since the battery is on the left in most cars, you would run the power down the driver side and the RCA's down the passenger side. If changing the ground doesn't work the last thing I would do is buy higher quality RCA's to run to the HR monitors. Could be that simple.

Easily put you have a bad ground. Odd though that you never experienced it till now. I really find it odd that adding HR monitors would make it appear if it wasn't there already. Assuming you only ran RCA's from the head unit and got power from under the seats I find it hard to figure out. If you ran power from the dash down by the RCA's that feed the amps in the rear then okay, maybe. Give more info and you will find better advise.

Did you try and switch the RCAs between the two amps? That's a quick way to tell you if the amp is bad.