kaplan_reject

Hey Paisan

I found it... going through your older post. Search string didnt come up with anything when I looked though....

Maybe I should stop eating paint chips.

Thanks.... I think....

Guess Ill give the Kenwoods a try.

How could you come up empty handed in a search if I just answered this yesterday for another member?

Hell, maybe I just screwed up the search...

Big fail on my part I guess. Ill look again.

Been away from the site for awhile after selling my D3. Now looking at getting another Nav unit. I have the opportunity to get a X910BT really cheap.

I have searched, here and Google for this but come up empty handed.

The Sirius display. Have they fixed it yet. By that I mean the single line of text from the old D3. Have they finally let it display multiple lines of text, ie channel info, artist, and song title, without having to scroll through them. If they have I think I may pull the trigger on this thing.

Thanks in advance.

This is a little project I decided to undertake with a little help from a couple of friends and my little brother. I decided to call it Project W3 ( Yeah I know its kinda cheesy but give me a break)

I wanted to build a box to JL specs for my brand new 12W3V2 and 500/1V2 to fit in my Mega Cab Dodge and incorporate both the bass amp and my high amp into the box to get them out from under my seat.

I came up with the basic design of the box but the final draft credit goes to my buddy "Chit". The box was designed on SolidWorks CAD to JL specs. Here is the numbers.... The design of the box was made symmetrical to make it easier to work with. Final volume per partition is 1.35618 in^3. Target volume is 1.321 ft^3 (1.25 ft^3 recommended + 0.071 ft^3 subwoofer displacement). The volume deviation is +0.03518 ft^3. Thats pretty close to what JL had in mind.

The basic construction of the box is out of .75 inch MDF with Liquid Nails being used as a bonding agent. (Anyone who has ever used Liquid Nails knows that shit is forever). The box was nailed usind 1.75 inch brad nails. It was sealed internally with Liquid Nails and a coat of silicon caulking and externally all seams were sealed with liquid nails and then sanded smooth.

2.5 inch PVC piping was tunneled through the box and and Liquid Nailed into place and sealed to provide a route for the wiring for the amps.

An extra plate was added to the sub mount surfaces to give the subs and flush mount look.

2x2 inch MDF "pucks" were carpeted and used as footing for the amps to assist with cooling, allow for discrete wiring, and in my opinion just looks pretty damn good.

All in all I am estatic with the overall success of my little project. The box came out looking great, has a superb sound quality and a one of a kind look.

Let me know what yall thing about it, questions and comments welcome.

I wanna give a special thanks to "Chit" for all of the CAD work, without which this would never have materialized, my best bud "Worm" for help with the construction, and my lil brother "Peck" for help me do all the finish work and get everything installed. Couldnt have done it without yall.

Well I'd say you get an A for effort, but..... when you have a unit that nice the proper install will do it much more justice. I wouldnt let my friends see that install and if they did id claim someone else did it.... but thats just me.

It seems like your pretty crafty at fitting stuff were its not intended to go, if I were you id get some glass and give a custom fab job a try.

My 2 cents

The metra kit I used has two large plastic sides that you screw onto the HU. It has held up great and the radio does not move.

As for the Sirius you can use the factory antenna but must change the reciever box. The factory receiver is more than likely behind the glovebox on the left side. You can tap into the factory power and ground at those locations. You will have to get a Pioneer Sirius receiver such as the SIRPNR2 or the CDSB10. Either will give you the same display on a D3. Not sure about the other units.

here is a helpful link for dodge trucks.

www.dodge.com/bodybuilder

Full electrical schematics available with pics, pinouts etc. Has helped me a whole lot.

I too have an '08 Ram 2500. It may be a bit more expensive but IMO it is far easier and unless your a whiz at custom fab, a cleaner look to just replace the 1.5 din bezel with the nav bezel. Just my 2 cents.

Eight months later and I BUMP into this thread.

Fellas, Fellas, Give the guy a break....

You'll find exactly what you need here...

http://avic411.com/forum/search.php

Really appreciate the quick reply, just to clear it up Crutchfield states

"Parking Brake Detection: To prevent the displaying of video while the vehicle is in motion, the light green wire in the supplied 22-pin harness must be connected to the vehicle's parking brake detection circuit, as well as a constant power source and ground. While the vehicle is in motion (parking brake off), you can still view all of the other displays and menus."

I take it to bypass you just ground the green wire and ignore the constant power supply.

I dont want to sound like an ass just not familer with anything other than pioneer and i just like being thorough before i commit to something. I dont mind spending the extra money, im just looking for a unit that has built in reliable nav, bt, and a quick ipod interface. I appreciate all the help

BTW I see your from Vancleave, I work with a fella from there....

Ok, I have had a decent offer for my D3 and was considering an upgrade. I was going f90 but now I am looking to the dnx8120. As having used nothing other than pioneer decks for the last 13 years, I am very leery about this. Just a few questions, How is the Sirius interface, can you see multiple lines of text. What do you need to be able to get the sirius hooked up to the dnx8120. And is the video and nav bypass really as simple as just grounding the parking break wire, seems to good to be true.

Boyo...

I think the model I have is the VTL420

I have a camera installed on my pickup and enjoy it for all of the above reasons. But the single reason I installed it was that I do a lot of towing and hooking up to trailers with no spotter. I have a perfect view of my trailer ball and can hook up perfectly with no help and no bumper dings. Would not trade it for anything.

I have both and have found that Sirus has a way better sound quality, and IMO better programming. Too bad the D3 Siruis interface is crap. I think if something were to happen to my XM reciever it would not be replaced and I may not renew my subscription next year, I just prefer sirius.

That's what limewire does too right? only torrents are much more organized and are capable of seeding full albums and movies and such correct?

Ive gotten away from limewire lately, found that ive been catchin more than a few virus' from that site. Been using BitTorrent and thepiratebay.org with good results

I always thought a torrent was a really bad rain storm...

This is the D forums try two letters down....

Gotcha,

My reverse input is currently hooked up to the reverse trigger from the pac harness I installed (08 Ram with CanBus). So just hook the B+ to a acc and the D3 will automatically switch when I put my truck in reverse. Thanks for the help, im not usually that knuckleheaded when it comes to wiring stuff, just not to familiar with the backup cam and the D3 manual is kinda misleading.

Ok, Just got my new Boyo Cam in, have a quick question. I know that the camera has to be hooked up reverse input in the power harness (violet/white wire) but is the only connection to be made, other than the ground and video input. Does this reverse input provide the 12v B+ to power the camera. Thanks in advance.

Whenever I made a background disc for my D3 I only put 5 or 6 backgrounds on the disc and had no fillers and it worked fine. Are you making sure to close the disc. Most programs do it automatically but just check to make sure.

Second....

I wouldnt have bought it if I couldnt have bypassed it.

My guess is the Greater Toronto Area

Rider is right, you need to either tap into a 12v switched wire somewhere under the dash or to get a harness that provides it for you. Being you have the D3 and to utilize the full potential of the unit, I recommend the second option. My opinion is that the PAC harnesses are the higher quality and easiest to use. Check them out here www.pac-audio.com.

It's all about makin that GTA

Cuz the boyz n tha hood are always hard

You come talkin that trash we'll pull your card

Knowin nothin in life but to be legit

Don't quote me boy, cuz I ain't sayin shit

Man, Talk about a blast from the past.....

Well I only have three complaints about the D3, one is pretty major, the other two or more incovenient that anything else. The major complaint is the often plain retarded routes that the D3 wants you to take. It will often route you several miles out of the way to go to a destination that is easily reachable by established roads in a more direct route. While aggrevating in an area where you kinda know where you are going, it will still get you there when you are in an area that is completely unfamiliar and you would be lost otherwise, its just takes a bit longer.

The other two minor complaints is the Sirius interface, while not Pioneers fault, I wish it were more like the XM interface with artist, track and album detail, Station info, logos and such all available on the same screen.

The third is the ipod interface, while it is workable I would like to have seen the scroll funtion a little faster with the selection you are scrolling through visible. Maybe even a selector where you could begin your search with a particular letter of the alphabet.

Anyway thats my two cents.

And dont take it that Im nit picking it to death. I find that the D3 is a great unit whos performance and overall wow factor outway the issues I have raised above. I really do enjoy it on those long drives and while I am chomping at the bits to get a new F series, its really gonna be a debate when they are released if I really do wanna get rid of my D3.