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JRT

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Posts posted by JRT

  1. Sounds like from the explanation that it's possibly a firmware and map data update for the N4 and D3, while just map data update for the other units listed. But that's just being optimistic.

     

    That's exactly what I thought when I read it.

    I hope it is a firmware update to fix the iPod menu bug.

    Other then that bug I have no real issues with the unit and I don’t understand why anyone would “upgrade†to an f900.

  2. Ok I am a little confused about NavTraffic.

    I live in Richmond, VA and when I go to XM coverage page they say that my area has coverage.

    http://www.xmradio.com/navtraffic/market_coverage.xmc

     

    But the traffic icon in the AV menu is grayed out as is the “traffic on route†button in the info/route options.

    I have the traffic icon on the map screen and I receive text information about traffic conditions like lane closes, etc.

    I do see text that traffic is moving fine but it is in DC; when I look at it on the map I see green lines on the map.

     

    I found this info in another thread

    “You need to set your local XM Traffic station on the D3 before this button becomes active. Simply find the XM traffic station for your area. While listening to it, hold the "TRFC" button for 2 seconds so that the system can memorize it. After you have done this, the Traffic button in the Info/Traffic menu of the nav function will work.â€

     

    Well there is no traffic channel for Richmond so what gives, is this giving me information or not?

    Am I not going to get up to date traffic congestion but only construction notifications?

    Sorry for the long post and thanks for any info.

  3. I bought a GEX-P10XMT from a dude on another forum and it still has a few months of service left on it. 8)

    I have never had XM before, it is pretty sweet and the NavTraffic rocks.

    On my way home tonight it showed me there was a blocked lane on the highway. :mrgreen:

     

    Anyways I just thought I would share, I know this is a crappy cellphone pic but I am real happy with this D3 now that I have all the cables hooked up and the calibration straightened out. :wink:

     

    Nav2.jpg

  4. That's what I meant by resetting the unit. To clear out all the info it gathered from calibrating itself to the other vehicle.

     

    Do you mean with the reset button?

    If so I reset it many times, both with the key off and in the acc postion.

    I also set it back to factory from inside the menu options, It never cleared the calibration information.

     

    Yes Balls on accurate. :D

  5. Ok CatchMeIfYouCan631 is right, some information I found on this issue on the mustang forums:

     

    * Shaker/Skipper 500 is a 6 speaker setup (4 speakers + 2 front subs);

    * each front sub is powered by it's own amp;

    * Shaker 500 has only ONE set of sub outputs (i.e. two mono subs running off one set of inputs);

     

    -->This<-- PDF shows the Shaker 500 connection diagram.

    Pins 1 & 2 on connector J4 is the mono output of the bass on the Shaker 500, for the Shaker 1000 the rear subs would be 5 & 6 though not show here.

     

    If you look at THIS schematic you can see how the the front sub amps are tied toghter.

     

    So there are two options here.

    1. Get a Y-cable that is two male to a single female and tie in the white RCA connector from the Merta harness and tape off the red one.

    2. Find the amps and run seperate feeds for the left & right to get stereo bass and only use the Metra harness to turn on the amps.

     

    From what i am reading the amps are behind the drivers side kick panel.

  6. YES we have success!!!

    The problem was that it was in 3D Hybrid calibration mode.

    My brother truck had the VSS wire in the harness and I remember reading in the manual that you had to have that wire to be in 3D hybrid mode.

    My bro realized that could be cleared and the unit went into simple hybrid mode…boom after a few traveled miles it is balls on accurate!!

    Put that one in the memory banks fellas incase someone else has a similar problem.

  7. ok. that adaptor is a universal shaker adaptor for the mustang. its for the 500 and the 100....the white rca powers the rear door subs and the red powers the trunk subs. the 500 doesnt have the trunk subs, only the 1000 does. the red rca and the amp wire parrallel to it, tape them up and dont use them. you put the remaining amp wire in line with the src wire and a 5v regulator, awesome. now the white rca should go into the subwoofer output plug from the deck. lamme ask you tho, how is the sound in the read without the sub plugged in??? i mean if they sound like crap without your subs goin then the adaptor isnt ur problem. if it sounds fine then plug into the subwoofer output and mess with the settings. you should be arite.

     

    So you are saying the white RCA and corresponding blue wire are for the door subs and their amp, while the red RCA and corresponding blue wire is for the shaker 1000 trunk subs and amp?

     

    Since I have a shaker 500 all that needs hook up is the white RCA from the pre-out on the HU and the corresponding blue needs to come from the output of the 5V regulator.

    That is what I have expect that I have both blue wires going to the regulator and the red RCA hooked up as well.

    Since I don’t have the shaker 1000 it should not matter if those wires are hooked up at the harness because the red RCA and blue wire do not exist at the factory harness.

    Does this make any sense LOL? :D

  8. "The rea SP was already set to full and preout was set to sub woofer. "

     

    You answer's kinda... confusing. So was the rear speaker out setting set to full or to subwoofer? Because that setting controls BOTH the rear speaker RCA outputs as well as the rear speaker outputs from the D3's internal amplifier.

     

    The "rear sp" option is set to full and the "preout" option is set to "Sub W" intead of full. From what I see when you change the rear SP to full then the rear speakers act as sub woofers.

    Also if the preout option is set to full then the woofer controls become labeled non fading and you lose the sub woofer controls.

  9. Ok wait a minute, your post is a little confusing to me, let me tell you how I hooked it up and we can go from there.

     

    First off, yes I wired in the (Radio Shack #7805) 5V voltage regulator for the amp turn on signal, no popping noise at all.

    As for the speaker connections; I hooked up both red and white RCA connections from the sub amp to the sub pre-out on the HU.

    I also hooked up both set rear speaker wires, the set of green for the left and the set of violets for the right.

    Does this sound right?

     

    The fronts and the subs sound fine, but the rears sound deep and muddy.

    They sound like mids with very little highs.

     

    Thank you for the help.

  10. I will have to try putting it outside and see what the deal is.

    I bought it from my brother, he had it in his Chevy pickup.

    The unit is about 5 months old and he said he never had a problem with it, the only difference is that he had the antenna outside.

     

    I was looking at the compass on the unit and the one on my mirror and they are 180 degrees out.

    That is why the unit doesn't know where it is, when I am going north it thinks I am going south.

     

    I do have aftermarket suspension parts, lowering springs, adjustable shocks/struts that I have adjusted to a stiff ride, drivetrain stiffing devices.

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