inches805

I have the same problem...would love an answer:

Muted audio

Grey-ed out buttons...I had this solved until I had the car serviced and they (for some unknown reason) disconnected the battery.

It is doubtful it is a grounding problem if you used speaker outputs to power your speakers. If it was a bad ground the unit would probably not work. However, if you would like to test for a bad ground you can do a few things.

With the head unit on, unplug the antenna. If the radio turns off, you have a bad ground. Also, you can attach a new ground by simply connecting a wire to the chasis of the head unit and then connecting the other side to a known good ground (cigarette lighter housing, ground of battery, etc.). If this solves your problem, you have a bad ground.

I would check your speaker wiring first. I have seen installs where people had inadvertently wired their speakers in series. This caused the same problem you are describing (this can even happen if you used a wire harness). Check your speaker wires with a wiring schematic for your car.

Here is the wiring for your car:

Radio 12v lt. green/purple + radio harness

Radio Ground black and black/lt. green - radio harness

Radio Ignition pink/black or lt. green/yellow + radio harness

Radio Illumination lt. blue/red (dimmer) + radio harness

Factory Amp Turn-on dk. green/purple + radio harness

Notes: This is the subwoofer amplifier turn on lead. The subwoofer and amp are in the driver side rear corner of the cabin. The subwoofer speaker wires are brown/orange (+), and red/black (-) at the radio harness.

Power Antenna N/A

LF Speaker +/- orange/lt. grn - lt. blue/wht +,- radio harness

RF Speaker +/- white/lt. grn - dk. green/org +,- radio harness

LR Speaker +/- gray/lt. blue - tan/yellow +,- radio harness

RR Speaker +/- orange/red - brown/pink +,- radio harness

Good Luck!

Yes he is correct. I basically have to have the car running, or the key switched to "on" (all dash and warning lights on). But for me it is ok because I don't listen to the radio unless I am driving the car.

I am still looking for an adapter for my car...If you run across anything that works for Audi and VW let me know!

That looks like the correct adapter. However, I am not sure it is going to give you the "1 hour when key is off" feature.

As far as the installation. There are switched wires in the car, but they need to be wired to to fuse box... I have an 07 Audi and the adapter I tried to use was the wrong one - like your installer. So for now I have the switched wire wired to the fuse box. No kill switches...Doing it this way could save you $80.00

I had a similar problem, I solved it by not connecting the I-Pod, shutting the system down (KEY OFF) then rebooting it. I have not had the problem since. Let us know what you find...I am interested to find out.

To get to the root of the problem I would ask your friend if during the install he removed any seats, door panels, or other items that may be integrated into the airbag system. A seat, even if the airbag is not in the seat, can still trigger a light if it was disconnected and the key was turned on. They have pressure sensors. However, your car has airbags in the seat, so if it was disconnected for any reason, then the ignition was turned on, it would set the light on.

You can check with NAPA or other parts stores for a code reader. Often times they have a reset. You can rent them by the hour or day.

Good luck, and let us know what you do.

I almost forgot. If you want to try an "untested on your car" method, you could try resetting the computers manually by disconnecting your positive battery terminal at the battery, and grounding it - the wire not the battery. I have done it on a few other cars, and it has worked. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I

You wouldn't happen to click on the map screen when that happens, would you?

I know what you are thinking. If you touch the screen the cursor sets to that location. But no. I didn't touch the screen. Just driving.

This sucks...any other ideas out there....should I do a new post?

While traveling this weekend I had an issue with my F700BT. The Navigation would lock up in the middle of traveling. It would show the arrow not moving. It would also not show any directions on the upper left of the screen.

I was able to get it to continue the route by pressing the "map" button.

Any ideas on how to get this NOT to happen?

I agree, a dremel is great for work you are not going to see. If you are going to see it though, I would use a combination of exacto knife, and sanding because it is much more precise.

Use a dremel to cut away large chunks of plastic.

Use the exacto knife for precise work or what you are going to see.

Use a file to get a nice even line

Use sandpaper to smooth it all out.

Finally, if you want to make it look factory, you could use spray paint towards the end of the sanding, shoot from about 6 -12 inches depending on the finish you want.

This is the first time this has happened to me and I was wondering if anyone else has had the same problem or knows a solution.

I was listening to the Ipod in the house, went to the car plugged it into the F-Series and started the car. The Avic would not get past the initial splash screen. When I disconnected the Ipod the Avic would boot up. If I were to reconnect the Ipod it would make the Avic go back to the splash screen.

I finally got it to work by changing the song the Ipod was playing while Ipod was disconnected. Any ideas why?

Avic F700BT

Pioneer Ipod Video Cable

Ipod Video 120 Gig

Highlander

I don't know if they changed the wires, but it was red/black in '06. It is usually found on the smaller of the two plugs, toward the middle.

You don't need much of an antenna for FM. However it is very important for AM.

Hope this helps: If you had the base radio, you probably didn't need to connect an amp turn-on, and therefore missed the power ant. If this is wrong let me know...It's for a 2007, all I could drum up. (I Show a yellow/orange for the '08 Elantra)

Radio 12v red/black + radio harness

Radio Ground black - radio harness

Radio Ignition blue/black + radio harness

Radio Illumination yellow + radio harness

Factory Amp Turn-on same as power antenna wire

Power Antenna green + radio harness

LF Speaker +/- black - white +,- radio harness or amp under pass seat

Notes: On models with the amplifier, there are two pair of these wires, one for the tweeter and one for the woofer.

RF Speaker +/- blue - red +,- radio harness or amp under pass seat

Notes: On models with the amplifier, there are two pair of these wires, one for the tweeter and one for the woofer.

LR Speaker +/- black - yellow +,- radio harness or amp under pass seat

Notes: If equipped, the left tailgate speaker wires are brown - white at the amplifier.

RR Speaker +/- green - orange +,- radio harness or amp under pass seat

Notes: If equipped, the right tailgate speaker wires are black - white at the amplifier.

If equipped, the subwoofer wires are black - yellow/white (coil 1), and white - brown (coil 2) at the amplifier.

Is it just my browser, or is there no way to get back to the home page once you click on forums. I know I can re-type the homepage into the navigation bar, but...

Mozilla Firefox

I have spliced antennas together (you are talking about the am/fm right) Your best bet would be put new ends on like jimmy wrote. However, you could solder or connect the wires back together and it will work, though the AM will not be as good. Basically, if you don't use AM just splice it back together. If you do use AM put new ends on.

This question is dependent on your factory head unit. Bose makes a variety of systems for various manufacturers. The '05 Maxima system uses a factory head unit that has no internal power, just pre-outs. Therefore, the Bose system in that car can utilize RCA's (are you sure the car was wired with RCA's, usually they still use speaker wires, but the adapter will have RCA's).

Your Mazda factory head unit most likely has built in power. The Bose system utilized a "high level" or "speaker level" input. Therefore, you had to connect your speaker outputs to the inputs (of either the factory wires or the adapter).

Sounds like a good combo. My thought is that more power is always better. Under powering speakers, in most cases, is what causes damage. Your JLA4300 is a good amp, the DIAMOND HEX S600S will be better than putting 5x8's or 6x8's in (circular speaker have less distortion due to shape than oval speakers), and the head unit is a good choice for the price.

Let us know how the install goes.

Sounds like you have it all figured out. Let me know when you are done!

Happy installing

It will only work with an Alpine Head unit that has Ai-Net. If you know your way around connectors, you could hack your way into the Ai-Net cord to get your audio inputs, but you still won't be able to gain full functionality of the amp. It is a proprietary system that does not use RCA's

Sorry

Try Metra, AI (American International), or Scoshe.

Depending on the month your sub. was made, you made need a chime interface too. Unless you don't care about your door chime or key chime.

You don't even need that pad. I have yet to see an install where the pad was required for increased signal strength. The same was said about XM/Sirius antennas. You don't need the metal backing even when installing these in boats on top of fiberglass.

Try it without it.

Do you currently have factory navi, or just the pocket. If you don't have factory nav, you could buy the factory trim panel, or go to a junk yard for one. That is about all you would need (except for a trim ring for the radio since Pioneer does not supply one for some reason)

Nofatty's

Sorry about the last reply...My mistake, I thought you were trying to put in a head unit (F700), not navi.

To answer your question, you should wire your F500 after your amplifiers. The only thing you have to make sure of is that the internal relays in the ND-G500 can handle higher inputs like that of aftermarket amplifiers (I have seen problems with the older Parrot stuff and amplifiers). With this wiring configuration, you will only be cutting (muting) one source of audio.

Your other option, if the Audiocontrol DQL-8 OEM integration unit has a mute input, is to connect the mute output of the ND-G500 to the mute input of the Audiocontrol. You need to connect a single speaker to an output (usually the left front) of the ND-G500, but would probably get much better results.

Hope it helps

I am not sure I follow you on using the ND-500. If you are replacing basically the whole system, why do you want to backward integrate to your old system. I realize that you need to keep your factory radio for climate controls.

It seems to me that you would want to install your F500BT, speakers, and amplifiers and not utilize the factory radio (besides the climate controls). If you want to keep your door chime and beeps and all crap, you could just wire a small speaker to the left front output of your factory radio, hide it under the dash and call it done.

Perhaps I am off in my answer. Is there any more information you could give about what you are trying to do?

If you have a light tester it is even easier. Just plug the light tester into the wire, if it pulsed between red and green as the car moves, you have the correct wire. (remember though, not all light testers are created equal. Some cheap ones can do damage...)