-2idicu-ous

just updated the first post

 

the ftp link is asking for a username/password.

 

just try it again

works for me now. thanks man. i'm excited. physically.

just updated the first post

the ftp link is asking for a username/password.

i was using CMH's mods on v2 but look forward to using IDT's on v3. thanks so much IDT.

so when does the torrent come out?

i installed the f90bt a couple of weeks ago. everything is working as expected.

i tried playing a burnt dvd+r DL when i installed mine. it gave a read error. i haven't taken the time to try another burnt dvd+r DL.

so with a sample size of 1:- we have 0% compatibility.

Not a bid deal but I can only listen to ABBA so many times...

take your anti-Abba rhetoric somewhere else.

No one has been able to find the "key" to disabling the Navi warning yet.

 

The brake warning can be done, you can either just ground the parking brake wire or do a search for Hardware Bypass. That's what you'll want to do to get rid of the error and enable functions without the parking brake being engaged.

just installed my f90bt and added CMH's all in one. the navi warning screen that pops up everytime you start the unit is pretty annoying. there must be a way to turn it off- surely someone has figured it out by now right?

I originally installed the brake wire to the brake. The trick to the software mod is to lift your brake up one click and you then have full access to any menu or video while in motion. the nice feature is that if you get the urge to stop working the system that way you just drop your ebrake and the system will lock you out(until you lift it again!)

 

the only issue this would bring up is now you have an e-brake light on! Big whoop, just remove the light or wait for it to burn out!

thanks for the reply. but i don't really want to play with my ebrake that way.

i just want to know the following: to ground the green parking break lead, can i just splice it into the harnesses black ground lead?

to ground the green parking break lead, can i just splice it into the harnesses black ground lead?

I have purchased the Pioneer Avic-f90bt and everything else needed for the install.

I have some questions about connecting the Pioneer harness to the adapter harness for the Honda Pilot http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701721/Honda-Acura-Suzuki-Receiver-Wire-Harness.html. I have most of the wires soldered already, but I'm not sure what to do with a few. I have yet to touch anything in the car.

1. blue (antenna power) lead. There is the blue lead from the Pioneer harness with a connector on it. The Honda harness adapter has a blue lead also. The honda antenna adapter http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040HD10/Honda-Antenna-Adapter.html also has the blue lead. My guess is that I need to remove the connector off the Pioneer harness and connect it to the blue lead of the Honda antenna adapter (and tape off the blue lead from the Honda harness adapter) - is that correct?

2. black (chassis ground) lead. Can't remember exactly the issue with this one but I think the pioneer harness has a connector on this lead.

3. I was planning to do the software bypass, but after reading in another thread, I'm confused on this. I thought to do the software harness, you installed all the hardware as you are supposed to- then just change the software values after install. But i was reading in another thread (can't find the link at the moment) that you had to change some wiring even with the software bypass. can someone clear this up for me?

MobiTV works too. No monthly fee with the activation bypass.

link it.

Did anyone try these antennas?

 

http://www.pickyguide.com/automotive/ca ... ended.html

Pyle - 4 Way Car TV Antenna - PLVWAN1 looks pretty good for what I want. thanks for posting the link.

I just posted a full write-up with tons of pics of my F700 and Artec tv tuner install, head over and take a peek:

 

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=23833

awesome. thanks. i'll check it out.

I used to have TV in my old truck, the unit came with 2 window wire antennas. (they stuck along the side of the windows). BUT they got MUCH better reception when mounted to the metal roof of the car in the headliner area. MOST antenna do better if mounted to metal objects b/c of the "ground plane" that it creates. The normal radio antenna should NOT be used b/c its not tuned to the feq. that TV need (its not just an impedance issue, having the antenna the right length so thats it picks up the channels wave at the right point is important) and will get bad reception. The Bigger is always better thing does not always apply to antenna's, unless its tuned, antenna should always be at 1/4 intervals in the wavelength. so a feq that has a 2 meter wavelength would have antennas at .5meters, 1meters 1.5 meter or 2 meters long to get best reception (and transmission in 2 way radios). This also include the antenna wires, Thats why when you install some car audio parts that require you extend your radio antenna wire they tell you not to cut the extension to fit b/c it will mess up the tuning.

 

edit: this all comes from being a HAM radio operator for 12years, working in a 2 way radio shop as an installer for 2 years and also being a nightclub/theatrical sound and lighting system designer/installer/tech for 15 years.

so for the headliner antenna's you would need to make sure there was metal to metal contact? a

also do you know where one might purchase simple wire antennas?

for me, i think the best solution would be a thin passive rod dipole antenna run along the bottom of the windshield with wires hidden in the vents or whatever else is there.

another antenna that could work is one of those tiny antennas that come with computer TV tuners. reception would probably be terrible though.

i think the biggest obstacle for this project is the antenna. apparently you can't split off the factory radio antenna b/c of impedance/ohm issues. everyone, including me, seems to want a stealth install- ie no rabbit ears sitting in the back of the car. the other problem is having to run power to an amplified antenna, something I would like to avoid.

possible solutions that i have seen for stealth antenna placement:

1. under the headliner antenna's http://www.carelectronicsworld.com/flatpanelheadlinermounttvantenna.aspx (regardless of whether you can fit the antenna under the headliner panel to your satisfaction, won't the roof above block all the signal?)

2. small rod antennas that can be run along pillars or window bases http://www.carelectronicsworld.com/dualleadamplifieddipolecartvantenna.aspx http://www.buy.com/prod/Boss-Audio-ANT8-Amplified-Dipole-TV-Antenna-with-Coaxial-F-Connector/q/loc/111/204254412.html

3. ultrathin antennas that could stick to windows http://www.rcaaccessories.com/rcaaccessories/RcaaccessoriesProductDetail.do?ACTION_TYPE_ID=ACTION_TYPE_PRODUCT_DETAIL&ACTION_CATEGORY_IDSTR_CATEGORY_INDOOR_ANTENNAS&ACTION_PRODUCT_ID=ANT1000 (that example is the best i could find and still wouldn't be very stealthy) found a better one: http://www.etronics.com/p-23401-pyle-plvwan7-thin-film-diversity-tv-antenna.aspx

other solutions or antenna's that you know of? any better solutions would be much appreciated.

I just received my ARTEC and am interested in hard wiring to my vehicle. Any idea if a regulated power supply is needed or can this be wired directly to vehicle wiring. The included power supply is 12v @ .5 amps wall AC adapter. Thinking.......chop off wall plug and splice into car wiring. I am assuming a variance of 12-14v with car wiring, so am wondering if I can do this. Thanks for your help.

this may be an easier solution: http://www.ezdigitaltv.com/RVs_and_Converter_Boxes.html

so, do you have to do a new channel scan everytime you start the car?