Myy06

Yes try it yourself. I had never installed a stereo anything in any of my cars, then tried this for the first time and did it right.

 

Order the correct harness from Crutchfield for your vehicle. Then ,since you bought through them, you can call them up and get tech support. Between them and this forum it's all you need!

 

Okay, having trouble here. I have an '00 Eclipse GT and installed my Z1, but need to hook up the vvs wire. From my searches I have found that it can be found near the cruise control piece and it is a blue/white wire.

 

Is there a more specific/easier location to access this wire? I had my Z1 installed in my '06 Mustang GT (got totaled) with no problems, but I'm having trouble with the Eclipse

 

Thanks!

Ask and you shall receive!

 

http://mgwltd.com/mustang_2005-present.shtml

 

Okay, I just purchased the camera in my previous post, then remembered to check the method of wiring this thing up to the Z1.... THe video cable is self-explanatory, but how about the following pic ...

Do I have this correct? The yellow video cable will plug directly into the RCA plug at the back of the Z1. Then, what do we do to make this power part work??? See the Ebay camera pic...

Thanks again.

Well said, thanks for the useful info. :)

Cool info, so maybe there is more to the standard camera offered... How is the night vision on the recommended one??? Is it worth the extra $$$, I'm guess for me it wouldn't be... but are there any sugesstions?

From those that bought the recommended one, if you had to do it again would you go with a $40 ebay one??? And ultimately I should just buy it and try it, for $40 you can't go wrong... (arguing and answering my own questions! :roll: )

Hello everyone, I`m a bit worried about trying the ebay cameras... I see this one available, anyone have any comments on this one here?
[url=http://cgi.ebay.com/Wide-Angle-120-deg-Waterproof-Car-Rear-View-Reverse-Cam_W0QQitemZ220071804826QQihZ012QQcategoryZ48629QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]http://cgi.ebay.com/Wide-Angle-120-deg- ... dZViewItem[/url]

Next I asks to list whether we need PAL or NTSC, which one do we use here in the US?

thanks!
LM

Okay, finally some pics! I meant to reverse the order of my pics so I know for next time! But here they are....! Thanks cntrylvr79.

Cool, I'm going to take care of that shortly! Got side-tracked today, I added a 10" Alpine sub in a box! The Z1 powers it nicely. I'll post a few pics in an hour or so!

Oh by the way, the radar detector won't cause any problems down the line drawing power from the same place as the head unit??? Just want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything and being safe!

Okay, I fixed my radio reception problem! I went back in and realized that my antenna cable wasn't plugged in properly.

 

The darn orange cable was strapped in to the car in several places. So this time I went in and disconnected the cable first underneath the glove box. That got rid of the difficulties of getting it into the back of the Z1. Then I reinstalled the unit, and lastly went back under the glove box and reconnected the cable's two parts.

 

Works perfect! Next I need to figure out a wire that I can tap into for my Valentine 1 radar detector. I thought the wire that went to the outlet in the center console was only active when the key was on, but it's live all the time. I want it to turn on and off with the engine so I don't forget it and drain the battery...

 

Oh, hey how about re-wiring the Z1 so that I don't need to turn the car on to operate it? I'd like to be able to run ther unit with or with out hte key. But I don't exactly see an on/off button, so maybe that could be an issue... just a thought.

I read a series of posts fromk people with the '06 rather than the '05 model. In it they mentioned that connecting the dimmer wire to the harness doesn't work for the '06s, someone else confirmed the problem, and another person told them again that they must go to the headlight switch. So that's what I did... and all is well.

 

In regards to the firewall, I wasn't expecting to have to do that either and hadn't seen anything written about it . But the Crutchfield tech person gave me the location of the VVS wire (being in the engine compartment) so that's were I went since I had no clue where it was at otherwise.

 

Thanks for the specifics on that reverse wire.

LM

Hey everyone, thanks for all of the great info here on the install. I never would have attmepted this on my own without the info on this forum!

 

With that being said, I feel obligated to share info that I couldn't find while doing my searches.

 

So I installed my Oct '06 unit into my '06 GT Mustang.

 

A. Here is what I did....

1. I soldered all my connections (never did this before but it was easier than expected) and used shrinkwrap afterwards (from home depot) as well as those tap connectors on the others.

 

2. Order your harness and the F150 install kit from Crutchfield! Then, you can call them up anytime for support on any part of the install using the order number that comes onn your invoice. They were extremely helpful and they're open 8am-12am est, except X-mas and thanksgiving!

 

3. The harness from Crutchfield has two blue/white wires (I'm pretty sure that's their color) to send power to the amp. The Z1 only has one wire. I called Crutchfield twice and on the second call I got an answer that made the most sense and was the correct one: their harness is designed to work with a variety of Ford systems, therfore they put in two power wires, one on the top right and the other on the bottom right. Simply look at the Z1 harness and you'll see that it's power wire is on the top. So we use the top wire to solder together and just tape off the other wire since it's not being used.

 

4. The bypass works beautifully. I found in some link the tip regarding moving the cell mute wire to the other harness. I've heard of people having problems with bad connections. The tip was: use a jewler's screwdriver (or anything with a tiny tip) when initially removing the wire from the first harness. On the topside of the harness is a small piece of metal that's visible. If you gently lift that (a toothpick may even work) you can pull the wire out, including the metal connector that it's crimped to on the end. Then you slot that into the other harness on the bottom right location and it snaps right in place securely!

 

5. When you're all done you've grounded four wires (misc info for reference): the parking brake wire, the unit itself, the cell mute wire in it's new bypass position on the 2nd harness, and the middle leg wire of the 5v regulator (see #7 below on this). Plus to find a spot to ground it to I drilled a small hole into the metal fram that sopports the whole dashbord directly behind the Z1 unit. I used those crimp style connectors with the O-shaped piece of metal on it to make sure they weren't going anywhere. Then I used a small screw to attach them to the frame. (I do have a small buzz when I press a button, I tried grounding the head unit separtately and it made no difference. It's minimal so I'll leave it for now.)

 

6. VVS, Reverse Wire, and Dimmer wire (ILL I believe):

1. Crutchfield was very helpful here: The VVS wire goes to through the firewall and to the main computer at the front right of the car (if you're sitting in the driver's seat, the front right corner). Attached to the main computer are three chunky black plugs with grey "handles", you want the top one fortunately. Pull back on the grey handle and it'll come undone. This is a 50 pin plug and you want pin 3, the dark blue/yellow stripe to tap into. To get to them gently raise the four black tabs that hold the cover over the harness and pull it off.

 

ALSO, along the passenger side firewall is a rubber something or other, about 3" in diameter. I saw that the stereo shop went through here to install my alarm. I went into the engine compartment, took out the battery, unscrewed the three bolts that hold down the tray, and moved it to the side (something else is attached to it so I just moved it out of my way) Then I went back inside the car, used a wire coat hanger and wrapped the end around the end og my pink wire. And used that to push it through the opening into the engine bay. Go to the engine bay, you won't see the wire but you'll need to reach your hand down and behind the metal to find where it came through, and you've got it.

 

Reverse wire: Crutchfield said it is in the passenger kick panel, and it's on a 52 pin plug, pin 13, a white /yellow striped wire. I couldn't find this for the life of me. There is a 50 pin plug kind hidden, I think it's blue while everything else is black. But I couldn't remove the cover to see what was in pin 13 slot. I didn't even see a white/yellow wire... I did remove the doorsill kick panel to see what wires were running back for the taillights and saw several white/yellow wires, checked my trunk and also saw the white/yellow wire. So back in the front of the car I tapped into one of these.... and it doesn't look like it works. I'll try again later, doesn't seem to affect me so far.

 

Dimmer switch: I thought I read somewhere that for the '06 models you couldn't simply hook up the dimmer switch from the Avic to the dimmer wire in the crutchfield harness cause that wasn't working any longer. The known fix was going to the headlight switch. So I disassembled the panel, unplugged the two switches, looked and took my best guess and tapped into the Yellow/Green wire on the top corner of the plug. AND it worked! So tap into that one on the main switch, not the switch that goes to the brightness dial.

 

7. Going back to the sub-harness and the regulator fix: Buy that piece from Radio Shack (+5 Fixed-Voltage Regulator #7805). It has three legs to it so solder three 2-in wires to each and shrink wrap the part closest to the black main piece. Then with the regulator sitting flat on it's back and the three legs facing you, solder the blue wire from the Z1 harness to the IN leg left most leg), then solder the blue wire from the top position of the Crutchfield harness to the OUT leg (right most leg), then solder a 2-foot or so wire to the middle leg so you can ground it. It works!

 

B. I have two outstanding issues with my install:

1. My radio reception is almost non-existant. It gets two channels only. It is pluggged in all the way, and I also confirmed that the additional connection that runs behind and under the glove box is tightly connected. Suggestions? With my stock setup I used one of those shorty antennas and it worked perfectly. I'm thinking I should try the stock antenna and see if that makes a difference...

 

2. I missed the reverse wire and apparenlty chose the wrong wire to tap into since the diagnosic settings doesn't recognize when I put it into reverse. Detailed suggestions?

 

I cant' thank eveyone enough!

LM

Good info, thanks!

 

I am putting in a voltage regulator. Thanks, and btw, where do we find the VVS wire to tap into on the '06 mustangs?

 

ANd lastly, which wire for the headlight switch do we tap into for the dimmer?

Thanks again, this forum is great!

Hey everyone / Ducatiboy,

 

For the rear subs: I'm putting my wires together and I have the crutchfield harness to match up with the Z1's harness. My questions are:

 

1. The crutchfield harness has 2 wires (blue & blue/black), the Z1 has just one blue/white wire (labeled system remote control). I called crutchfield and they told me to connect both blue wires from their harnes to the single wire from the Z1. Is this correct?

 

2. I have the resistor to install as well. One of the threads stated:

"The regulator goes to the Amp IN wire, I can't remember all the details but I belive there is a Collector (Input) base (Ground) Emittor (Output) so your amp would go into the Input leg of the 5v regulator and a ground would go to the middle leg and the output to the harness of the Z1 to the Output leg. I had the pop too and added the reg and its now perfect :)"

 

So if I first connect the two wires from the Crutchfield harness together, then according to the info above, these two wires somehow have to get soldered to the Input leg of the regulator (seems like a chunky group of wires with two wires going to the small leg of the regulator, suggestions?). Then the Single wire from the Z1 harness gets soldered to the output leg of the regulator. Is this also correct?

 

Thanks,

LM