JohnnyDepp
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Posts posted by JohnnyDepp
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Hello to all. I've been somewhat of a lurker on this site since my first AVIC which was a f900bt. I sold that unit a year ago or so and just purchased a 920bt two days ago. I'll try to keep this simple, but the installers, pioneer, nor At&t could help me so far. Maybe someone here can, and I would greatly appreciate it. I had no devices on my phone prior to yesterday. I turned on the BT on my phone and it showed a device that said Bluetooth Hands Free and showed connected. When pressing the phone button on the 920 it was all grayed out. I then paired the phone with the unit and another device popped up showing Pioneer NAVI. As soon as I disconnected the first device, then everything worked as normal. This morning after starting up it automatically connected the Bluetooth Hands Free device, and once again I disconnected it and all was well. I ASSUMED that I did not need this first device, so I deleted it from my phone, now I keep receiving a message on my phone that says Bluetooth Hands Free cannot connect and I cannot pair up with the other Pioneer NAVI device showing in my phone. I have restored the settings on the unit, and done everything but master clear my phone. The error message goes away when the 920 is off, or if I turn BT off on my phone. Does anybody have any idea what the heck I can do? Thanks in advance again!!
Did you UNPAIR all devices from your phone on the PHONE side? In other words, yty getting rid of all previously-paired devices in your PHONE'S list of memorized Bluetooth devices...and then start from scratch using the X920 manual. (i.e., Turn on your phone's Bluetooth, tell it to be "discoverable, and then immediately initiate pairing from the X920, etc.)
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I bought the ABS-CDIU230V (Same as Pioneer CD-IU230V) by accident. Everything seems to work fine. I was attempting to get the best deal (since we get screwed on shipping up here in AK) and knew from this site to get the OEM cable. So, as far as I know, it works fine on my x910BT. I'm running an iPod 60g classic. Video works too.
Why not apply some of the thousands of dollars of taxpayer money you Alaskans are given from the Government every year from oil revenue towards your shipping? ;O)
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it definitely sounds like the problem is either the "fuses" or a bad output section of the board, either way i would exchange it with where you got it.
Er....there's nothing in this thread so far about him actually checking the Sub-Woofer related settings on the X920BT. Did you want to ask him if he's actually got the various Sub-Woofer settings in the X920BT menus set properly??? For example...
- Maybe he's got the SubWoofer setting to "Full" instead of "Sub" in the AV Menu
- Maybe he's got the SubWoofter-specific menu settings (e.g, the phase, the frequencies, the level) set oddly
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Actually, I normally am VERY much in favor of telling someone to read the manual...and have done that a few times on here.
In this case, though, I have to say the guys are correct...the manual is REALLY bad on this particular issue. And actually, the translations of the Pioneer manuals are generally inferior than others.
Another example...who goes around saying things like "To stop Bluetooth wave transmission...." ??? lol
It's clear one way Pioneer keeps their costs down is minimal translation checks...lol.
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How bad is the pin? I unfortunately broke the mute pin when I removed it. I grabbed a solder iron and fixed it no problem. I thought I would have an issue, but it has had no apparent affect as my bypass works beautifully. Try fixing it before you buy a new harness.
Find another wire that's not being used (if any) and remove it. Or, just order wires with connectors already on them.
By the way, they sell tools designed to safely remove these pins (even though they're not really made to be easily removable...that's the whole point of Molex-type harness connectors like these).
See this thread:
http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/29752-why-not-just-add-a-wire-for-bypass/
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I'm toying with an idea to wire my tuner like this circuit (which I have drawn, btw). So whenever it dumps out, just rock the switch back and forth. Cuz to be honest, it is pain in the ass when you're driving and no more XM until you restart.
Are you using a proper XM antenna in a proper location???? Did you splice it in any way? Read the entire thread...
I don't think this is a bug...I think anyone having this problem is either using the wrong antenna, or messed up the antenna installation or location in some way, or both.
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You don't HAVE to cut the connector or damage anything. You can open the connector and then can unlock the tab that holds the pin in place and move the wire over. As I recall, mine took me about 5 minutes to do -- and no cutting or damage to anything, or orderign extra wires.
Details are in the thread at the top of the section for the bypass.
See here: http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/27275-x920bt-bypass-confirmed/page__view__findpost__p__214099
Adam
Dude...I agree that if one has enough manual dexterity, then yes, one can remove pins from Molex-type connectors in exactly the way you describe...but...
...it's tricky to those who haven't done it, and even then, not quite as simple as you make it sound for most people. In fact, these connectors are designed to NOT allow the pins to easily come out. They sell special tools that engineers use to remove wires from these things when it's absolutely required, because they don't have time to fiddle with every wire they need to remove (in rare instances they make a mistake wiring a harness).
Here's some examples of the tools you can get for this:
http://www.thefind.com/pets/browse-molex-pin-removal-tool
Moreover, here's a thread where ANOTHER user on here broke the wire trying to remove it:
http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/29790-broke-pin-trying-to-bypass/page__gopid__221185#entry221185
I still say it's simpler to have the right wires around pre-crimped with the right terminals on them. If one can't do that, get the tool. If one can't do THAT, then sure..go ahead and try your method of making an ad-hoc tool (e.g., staples).
Whatever one does, we're in total agreement that all this cutting up of connectors with razor blades is silly.
I'm surprised the "pro installers" who made that one bypass video (soundaudioman or whatever) don't know how to order these wires or get Molex pin removal tools....
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Allow me to offer some SPECIFIC comparisons between the navigation on my old D3 (god, I hated that @*#&^ thing) and the X920BT I installed for my buddy:
1. The D3 sometimes took me off highways onto service roads and back, with no traffic present. It was unpredictable and it was stupid. The X920BT doesn't appear to do that.
2. The first few words of the audible upcoming turn direction were sometimes cut off on the D3. For example, "In a half mile, turn left" would be uttered as merely "...turn left" a half mile before you needed to. It was confusing to people who didn't know this quirk, and people who borrowed my car had no idea what to do and laughed at the D3. The X920BT doesn't appear to do this.
3. The D3 didn't have intelligent learning technology (as far as I could tell, or read in the manuals). However the X920BT does have this feature...learning based on how you drive a given route. You can tell it to use or not use what it's learned.
Overall, I think the navigation on these newer units is far superior. However, yes, there are some things the old D3 had that the X920BT doesn't, such as:
1. Visual route scrolling....basically letting the nav unit show you the entire route from start to finish. Sometimes used this on the D3.
2. Easily bringing up the destination on the screen and searching around it for other destinations to add as waypoints. UPDATE: Now you have to go back Home and then to the Destination and POI search menu, but you can still do this.
3. Searching for POIs across state lines in certain circumstances doesn't work without having the select a different state on the newer units.
4. Checking XM signal strength (yeah...not a nav thing, but hey).
5. ADDED: Touching the time/distance/arrival to next way point on the X920BT main map screen no longer cycles between that info for next waypoint and the final destination. Rather, it appears the X920BT will only cycle through time/distance/arrival for the NEXT WAYPOINT when you repeatedly tap that button. It appears the only way to see the arrival info for the FINAL destination in a multi-point trip on the X920BT is to bring up the little on-screen mini-menu and tap on the route overview button....this seems to show the checkered-flag, final destination data across the bottom of the screen.
6. ADDED: Believe it or not, the visual representations of highway signs were somewhat more exact on the D3 than on my buddy's X920BT. Small differences in wording, etc. The D3 "signs" usually looked exactly like the real ones, with the exact same writing and city/town names. The X920's are usually off in some way...minor, but enough for me to notice.
In any case, the in-dash nav unit field is FINALLY broadening. Pick up the latest Crutchfield catalog and look at all the options. There are some new Sony's that look REALLY good (although they lack VR). The Kenwoods are GREAT (and use Garmin's nav interface, so all your friends will know how to use if when traveling with you). There's also Alpine, JVC, Eclipse, Dual, and others out there...and they're all getting better. Also, unlike Pioneer, none of them use the soon-to-be-gone MSN Direct for real-time info and traffic data...duh.
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1. The first gen doesn't support BT audio.
2. No.
3. What do you mean by, "audio from the internet"?
4. There is no setting to turn it off but you can hit the VR button to interrupt the prompt and give your response.
For 3. I think he means if he has audio playing in his internet browser (e.g., audio from a YouTube clip or a music clip, or streaming from some web site).
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It's in my sig. Yeah you want to stay clear of here. We have the worst traffic fatality rates in the US.
Probably near Biloxi. I lived in the Florida Panhandle for years. Highway 98 is terrible during beach season.
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Good point....I hadn't caught that, actually.
Hands-free is the way to go...hard to do hands-free without VR.
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update us how is your project going, would like to find another easier way to get this done.
The install for my buddy is done, but we didn't want to wait for the pre-crimped 22 AWG wires to arrive, so we did the painfully silly razor blade bypass thing.
When we DID get them, they looked fine, though.
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I'm having the same issue with Sirius sort of. I installed the cd-sb10 and a scv1 Sirius tuner to my avic z120bt but the volume is very muted with sirius selected. Any other source is fine. If I remove pwr to the scv1 with pwr still on the avic the volume returns to normal but after I turn the car off and return I have the cycle the pwr on the scv1 again. I've tried 2 different scv1 tuners and checked that the ip bus cable is connected properly. Any thoughts?
Make sure you're using a *Sirius* antenna, and not an XM one. Also, make sure you haven't spliced it in any way, and make sure it's mounted in a place with a clear view of the sky, etc.
Some good advice about antennas in this thread:
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Does anyone know how to check XM signal strength? I have the GEX-P920XM and a Z110BT. Terrestrial works good but Sat is not coming in. I didn't see signal meter on the display anywhere. Is there a secret menu??
Thanks
Are you using an original, unspliced, known-good, XM antenna?
See my advice about XM antenna mounting (and NOT trying to use Sirius antennas for XM) here:
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Ah...well, that's better than splicing, but still tricky.
I suspect that your XM signal SNR is too low due to the non-optimal antenna choice. A poor SNR means the data rate is too low...and the continuous digital audio data requires a higher data rate.
The song title, artist, and station name only require a few bytes of data, which is why those are showing up just fine.
Tell me...is your friend with the X920BT who's having this problem also using a non-XM antenna? If his is an XM one, did he splice it in any way?
With the old D3 (god, I hated that thing), one could check the XM signal strength in the service screen. Not sure why Pioneer removed that capability in the later units. Would really help answer this question.
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Yeah...
Tell you what...I just received Crutchfield's holiday catalog and there are a TON of new in-dash navigation and AV systems that compare VERY favorably to the Pioneers...and none of them use MSN Direct...LOL.
You guys HAVE got to look at that catalog (don't buy from them, of course, given how overpriced Crutchfield is...). The paper catalog is just a great reference for what's out there.
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Yes, the GPS and XM antennas are well away from each other.
No, my car came with Sirius radio so I am using the Sirius antenna instead. I just swapped the plastic connectors, pink for XM and green for Sirius.
(Unlikely Issue) Is the GPS antenna anywhere near the center of the field-of-view of the XM antenna in the direction of the sky? If so, the GPS antenna could possibly be interfering with your XM reception depending on what direction your vehicle is heading with respect to the direction to the XM/Sirius spacecraft. However, I'm guessing your OEM XM antenna is on the roof of your car, so this is unlikely. Also, these aren't exactly line-of-sight (LOS) systems...S-Band and L-Band frequencies bounce around your car, diffract, etc. quite a bit.
So, moving on to the other answer you gave....
(Likely Issues) What **EXACTLY** do you mean when you say you "swapped" the connectors? Did you have to cut or splice the actual XM antenna wire to replace the connector? Or did you use a adapter of some kind?
If you actually CUT the OEM antenna wire, you've introduced noise in the line, which will affect your XM signal strength is reduce reception. Splicing antenna or microphone wires is ALWAYS a bad idea. Too many "professional installers" (I always laugh at that term...LOL) do this all the time because they don't want to bother re-routing wires up and down car pillars, dashboards, etc. To make matters worse, a lot of these guys never took a soldering class and don't know how to properly solder (e.g., "tinning" the leads first, using the right flux/solder combo, etc.).
Moving on to even LIKELIER problems here...
The XM and Sirius broadcast frequencies are NOT exactly the same. Using an antenna from one service for the other is a BAD idea. As a reference, here are the broadcast bands used by each service:
XM: 2332.5 to 2345.0 MHz (12.5 MHz bandwidth)
Sirius: 2320.0 to 2332.5 MHz (12.5 MHz bandwidth)
...besides which, the strength of the signals from both spacecraft that reach the Earth is not the same. The two services probably expect antennas with different gains.
ALSO....is your factory antenna powered??? If so, it might be an active antenna...is it getting power since you did whatever you did to "swap" connectors? Maybe the antenna's not even being properly powered anymore.
Summary Opinion:
You've revealed that you're using a Sirius antenna with XM (really bad idea). Moreover, it sounds like you cut the antenna wire(s), which really messes with antenna signals (another bad idea). Finally, your factory antenna may be a powered, active antenna and we don't know if you cut the power connections to it (yet another bad idea, if you did that...we don't know).
So, I strongly recommend you temporarily try using a virgin, uncut, unspliced, never-modified XM (NOT Sirius) antenna mounted in a GOOD location for antennas, avoiding all the potential "gotchas" I list in my first post. Don't cut anything, don't splice anything...don't even LOOK at the antenna the wrong way. Say supportive things to it, and buy it a latte before installing it.
Let us know what happens. If it works, then you may have to go through the pain of replacing your factory antenna with a proper XM antenna and routing the wires. Or simply use/hide it in a place you like.
By the way, my buddy and I both have Audis...I had an AVIC D3 before I dumped it and I just installed an X920BT in his car. In both cases, the antennas were hidden under the top, front dashboard in a stereo speaker well (we removed the small, center front speakers in both installations. There's a metal brace under each one, which provides a suitable ground plane for the antenna. Or you could just mount it on your dash, behind the center of the windshield. These are pretty small antennas, and are pretty unobtrusive. These are the things that your typical "professional installers" don't get. Sort of like trying to mount microphones covered in sticky stuff without any air behind them...which makes the mic useless. STAY IN SCHOOL, KIDS! Learn physics! lol
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Does your buddy do a lot of channel surfing?
Yes. No problems at all. We tested it quite a bit jumping around all over the place quickly...and also after half-hour drives listening to one station. No problems.
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Because stuff is EARNED in life. Besides, "teach a man to fish..."
Why not get some Photoshop skills and create your own? It'll make you more valuable in industry...
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My buddy is using his old GEX-P10 XM tuner (or whatever the model number was) with the new X920BT...no problems at all. Doesn't get the NavTraffic obviously, but he doesn't mind losing that since he has MSN now...at least through Jan 2011, that is.
Wouldn't mind answers to my questions to the guy above...wondering if it's really the tuner at all.
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Whoa...these are highly competitive in both price and features...integrated Bluetooth, Tom Tom navigation, etc. And the Sony OEM iPod cable is only $30
Check these out:
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Hmm....I'm not prepared to agree with everyone that this is an XM tuner issue just yet. Likely, but not sure yet...
More specific questions for you...
- Did you do any splicing (not recommended)?
- Do you have the antenna where it has a relatively unobstructed view of the sky?
- Does the XM antenna have its own metallic ground plane beneath it?
- Is it in the "RF shadow" of the GPS antenna or its metallic ground plane? Remember that both are L-band...keep them out of each others' shadow...side-by-side is usually OK for most people.
- What is the entire series of wires and connections between your XM antenna and the tuner?
- What is the entire series of wires and connections between your XM tuner and the head unit?
- Is it the OEM antenna?
- Which XM tuner are you using?
- Have you checked the XM signal strength? In the old D3, one used to be able to check XM signal strength in one of the info screens. Not sure if you can do that on the newer units.
- What part of the country are you in? Remember that the XM spacecraft's beam footprint is optimized for certain parts of North America more than others. My old D3 worked find the Mid-Atlantic, but often lost signal in other parts of the country.
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Map updates are normally in a major firmware update, which means we're payin' to get it.
Tru
Not entirely correct...
Yes, you definitely pay for ALL map updates with Pioneer, which does suck. For example, Pioneer charges $120 for a map-only update, whereas Garmin charges $50 or $80. Moreover, Garmin offers a FREE map update period on some models...and a lifetime map subscription for $90.
Also, Pioneer tends to be delayed in releasing map data updates. The first update for the D3 was nine months old by the time it hit shelves....and the data itself were practically a year old...useless, basically.
However, contrary to your assertion, Pioneer has tended to keep map-data updates SEPARATE from firmware updates (not always, but generally). For example, on the old D3, they released a number of map-data and XM-logo updates that did NOT include firmware updates to the basic operating software or navigation features.
In any case, the problem with Pioneer is that BOTH types of updates are far too infrequent. As these forums attest, tons of really unprofessional, almost-comical bugs on the AVICs...especially the F-series....went on forever before being fixed with a firmware update (if they've been fixed at all).
Here...look:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Accessories/NavigationUpgrades/
vs.
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/buymaps.do?products=Nivi+1390T&pId=
http://www.garmin.com/garmin/cms/site/us/maps/numaps-lifetime
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In my state we have no distracted driving laws so everything is legal, until you kill someone.
Great! That way one can merely WOUND people, cause major accidents, loss of vehicles and property. Cool....good to know.
What state is that, by the way? I have to go add an "area to avoid" section to both my Kenwood and my buddy's AVIC...LOL.
sub not working- x920bt
in Problems/Troubleshooting
Posted
Are you sure about the first point? I think the Sub setting in these units is a little counterintuitive and the japanese-to-english translation is a little spotty on this particular issue. I think the manual says to use "Full" if you have ONLY a set of rear speakers and NO subwoofer. If you HAVE a subwoofer, I think it says you need to select "Sub", no?
Yes, I know it sounds weird that "Full" would drive fewer audio elements than "Sub" but the manual is a bit hard to understand for this setting...in fact, I wouldn't mind some clarification myself. I installed an X920BT for my buddy...I think he said his subwoofer is definitely working in addition to all eight of the regular speakers in his Audi, and I'm almost sure we left it set to "Sub"...