mhyde71

firmware didnt take... it ended up not being a problem after about 2-3 days...was good for a cweekor so,then back to not working again

I think it is the ribbon cable perhaps, ie maybe loose connection, or cracked wire in ribbon causing it to go in/out from time totime....also notice if it is over 40* it has no trouble-

so could very well be the ribbon or some connection thereof

mat

why cant i see any pic's???

might you be able to send to me directly to my email??

mhyde_16@hotmail.com

Super big please and thank you

matthew

doing a firmware update- will that put me in a position where i will not be able to take advantage of the ducati lockout device...or IOW will it become inoperable?

pls advise.

matt

okay so it appears now that i am having simliar issue...

it started last weekend with the inability to use the hard keys on the bottom nor the touch screen.... but it would fade in/out... after a while i would be able to, but then it would almost go immediately back to being inoperable.,.. Stuff like the map screen just shooting off in a westward direction all by itself... and/or when trying to enter an address it would select various numbers or selections all by itself... kinda like someone was touching the screen.

At any rate, now i am at the point where there is an address in the GPS which i can not cancel, and that is awfully annoying.... and cant do anything but change volume...

NOW in full discloser, i have had the Z1 for apprx 3 years and havent had this issue until this past weekend...

SO is this firmware the fix i need? and how do i install? just burn onto disk and load into player?

maybe i should look at the link provided... going there now... in lieu of that, any help/input/suggestions/confirmation(s) are appreciated.

pls thx

matt

okay update/correction... I WAS wrong I can not open face to remove/replace CD's - thought i could but no go!

not sure if this makes a difference or not... but i am still able to open the face/screen by hitting the button on the left to insert/eject cd's... that still works fine... it is the booting up and shutting down that the screen has no outward or inward motion going on...

Again, not sure if that makes a difference, just wanted to make mention that I can still load/unload CD's w/o any trouble.

pls thx

matt

any updates abhout this or maybe where you might be able to point me in the direction of other posts/threads about this.

I have same exact unit (flashing headligths, bought in june of '06, etc) and for me it seemed to happen in the hotter months of summer (never happened in winter or fall) so i thought maybe a humidity issue. Well, there was a time that it would do it (well, not do it (slide out)) for about a day or so... then next day, after it cooled down overnight and in morning it would pop out like, as you said, it was 2006 all over again. BUT i am now dealing with it not sliding out for about a month now, and getting really discouraged.

I tried resetting unit by disconnecting battery, maybe later i will try hard boot or whatever else they call it in the manual for rebooting... BUT might you something else in mind as to the issue or resolve for this?

pls thx

the eq will affect the sub woofer freq's if you adjust the sliders/freq's that correspond to the sub's outputs. Where ever it is that you have the low pass crossed at, i.e. 80hz, then any eq slider that affects 80hz and below will affect the sub's output. the other eq sliders/freq's, (80hz on up) will afftct the cabin speakers. It all depends on where you cross your freq's at that will determine which freq's/sliders will affect which speakers. hope i made sense with that...

been busy, havent had time to get to it, might get it done this weekend.

okay cool just checking in.. curious to know how well it works for you...

One thing I would like to mention as well which might even be easier for you.. is some higher end RCA cables, they have a "drain wire" already attached.. does same thing as you're/we're doing/done but manufactured that way... maybe google or ebay search for rca drain wire will pull up a few.. I know some of the Monster cables have the drain wire... Matt

here is a sample.. but i would be concerned with the quality of this cable but it gives you the idea:

http://cgi.ebay.com/AVW150-5-16-FT-DUAL-RCA-MALE-CABLE-W-EARTHEN-GROUND_W0QQitemZ180168852958QQihZ008QQcategoryZ32833QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

thanks.... ill let you know how it worked out

Any luck?!?!!?

just to add .. doing all 4 is, IMHO, overkill as the ground is common in all rca out(s), so doing one is all you would need.. It really should be done behind HU, and maybe even grounded to HU... I only say this b/c that's what worked for me.. you might be able to get an idea of how well it might work by doing the procedure at the end of where the amps are first, i.e. take the rca and do the procudure at the end of where one of the amps are and ground the rca in the back to the chassis or something ...see kinda like a preliminary test result..

Yup then, that would be all you need to do... some say that doing all 4 is neccessary, but i found doing just one was the resolve for me. Whine Gone...

One other thing.. be mindfull of the gains on amps.. If i turn my gains all way up, or even like 80%.. I do get the whine back.. as it is an input gain it will increas anything in the signal input.. so by grounding the rca and maybe tweaking the gain down to 50/40% then I bet you'lll have no more whine.

I did it to just one.. Now for me it worked b/c the rca's I used are hooked up to amps and stuff ... Not sure what to say/thijnk if you do not have amps hooked up. Do you have amps in you system and stuff?? or are you running speakers right of the HU itself??

Here is a picture of me wrapping a wire around the rca end I spoke of above.. Somewhat rudementary, but maybe give you the idea of what we're referring to... Opposite end of small wire goes to grouning point.. some say not to the HU, and/but I have mine to the HU and it works just fine.. go figure..

Then tape it up real good, making sure no wires are crossed/touching the center positive terminal etc.. and then once taped up through a cable tie on it

MH

Awfully interesting.. I'm interested in the HD DAC .. just need to figure out a few things with my Z1 first, so I am keeping an eye on this thread.. good work, thanks!

Geeze I cant imagine going through something like that... But I bet that might be simliar to what USAmps is talking about when they say it is potentially damaging if I use a ground loop... thus making the amp needin/looking for a ground somewhere if it's not coming through the rca's... It confuses me a bunch, but I'm just gonna listen to them and not use one...

Here's the story from my testing today... and I have kind of narrowed it down to being the amp, versus the rca's... but as I just typed that... I might be wrong...

I actually have two (2) AX-TU4360's, 1 of them is with crossover and one is not. The one w/o xover is one of their older models, the 4360 (maybe when still in FLA) and the one with Xover, the 4360C, is when they are out in CA (I believe).. well anyways, I removed the 4360C this afternoon and replaced it with the 4360 and low and behold no engine noise... that can be 1 of 2 things I guess... My first thought is the amp... which it is by reasonaing... but it just might that the 4360 handles the poor rca outs better than the 4360C... so it's the amp... but in the long run, if the rca's didnt have that hum coming from them it wouldn't matter what amp was there... i guess. if i am diagnosing it correctly.

Unfortunate thing is I have recently put the 4360 up on the Bay to sell, since I recently purchased the 4360C so I could consoladate a bit and get rid of the crossover, and older amp 4360... kind of out with the old in with the new. Now I am kind of regretting it... The older amp not only just sounds better, warmer, fuller and such, but it also handled the engine whine/rca outs better, thus making it a better choice all around. I am debating about pulling it off the bay, as I may decide to keep it, but then I'd have to try to sell the newer one. just headaches all around. Don't get me wrong though the 4360 (older amp) still has a little engine whine but nothing near than what I'm dealing with on the 4360C. I also have a line driver and if i turn up the gains on the line driver on the 4360 I can still get a pretty good engine whine out of the rca's, but I have to try hard to do so... i.e. turn all the gains up, and that probably isn't ideal anyways. SO if i set the gains to where they should be minimal minimal engine whine... But I know it wont last as it is for sale and will be finished in a couple of days. maybe sell both and find another make of amp... But I also have a 1000C that is out on warranty, and I suspect I will be dealing with the same once that gets put back in... Headaches headaches headaches!!!

bump? What's that mean? Got me curious...

But anyways, I personally can not use ground loop becasue the design of the specific amp I have. They say that using ground loop can cause damage to the amp.. as it is removing the gound/neg from rca's and the amp is looking for neg from the rca's. If it doesn't find it in the rca's it will look to take it from somewhere else. I just tried doing a suggestion that was made to me earlier this week by a guy that is savvy with all this electronic stuff., which was to ground the amps in the back directly to the battery.. But that didnt work either. I'm gonna try upgrading rca cables and if all else fails I'll bring it in to shop to have them check all grounds in/coming from the engine/battery/alternator. It has been stated by a number of people that pioneer has issues with their rca's outputs, it was clear to me just that when I grounded the rca's it cleaned up the noise by apprx 85-90 %. But there is still the 10-15 % I'd like to rid of.... Any help is appreciated...

Thanks

Isn't true that only one is needed though, as all the negative is common between all the rca outputs? Just trying to figure whether or not all 4 rca's (maybe even 6 incld sub outs) need to be grounded?? I had same problem and grounded one rca out and fixed it. However, I have atube amp and last night I just changed my tubes and the annoying engine whine has returned. Awfully strange... I suppose it's possible that different tubes act differently, but if the noise was there before and I grounded one rca and it went away, how could it have returned by simply changing the tubes in the amp. The annoying souind originates from the HU (rca's)?

Any input would be greatly appreciated...

long lead on the wire and wrapping it around the negative lead on one of the rca

That for those who may not be aware... it's the outer sleve of the rca connector. Just wanted to clarify!

matt

I have a '02 pathfinder and was getting a terrible engine whine and it was ridiculous. Albeit I also have a ton of sound equipment in the rig, but here's what I did to get rid of it. I grounded the rca's. Here's how... get a small 12-16ga wire and i suggest creating a long lead on the wire and wrapping it around the negative lead on one of the rca out's (probably better off being one of the front or rear out's vs. the sub or any video out's) and then twisting it real nice and tight and then taping it to the rca then grab a cable tie (you know those long black plastic/nylon straps that keep/bundle wires/cable together) and torque the cable tie down on the rca over the taped part to secure the wire to the rca and simply ground it to the chassis of the HU. BAM! I had no more noise/engine whine. Now given I have amps and stuff not sure if that is a fix exclusively due to having amps but I wouldn't think so. It’s sound that is leaving the HU weather or not it goes through an amp or not before it hits the speakers shouldn't matter. It is commonly known that among a select few of us that deal with amps and crossovers and stuff like that that PIONEER has major issues with their rca's being grounded and giving off good clean sound with no noise. In fact there are some high end amps out there (i.e. US Amps) that the technical people say that their amps do not do well with PIONEER Equipment because of this problem.

If you don’t like the taping and cable tie resolve you can always solder it to the rca just the same... I'd be concerned as to how well solder will take to the rca as it is coated/protected to some degree. Other possibility is to get a set of rca's that have the grounding wire (some call it a drain wire) built in to them. I saw a pair on eBay for under $5.00 shipped (http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Ft-2-RCA-MALE-PLU ... dZViewItem)

There's always the possibility of a ground loop isolator but the money spent on that is almost moot when grounding the rca's is basically the same and fixed my issue for simply 15-20 minutes and a spare little piece of wire lying around downstairs.

This may not be the fix for all but it fixed my engine whine 97%. If i listen closely while parked i can still hear a lil' something but as soon as it goes in R or D the noise from cabin/rubber hitting the road it is now drained out.

Hope that helps some of you

mh

The backwards swastikas are pronounced jin-ja and a literal translation is a shrine... Specifically speaking it is where people go pray to Budda... church/temple is close enough though. But that's how it is pronounced.... my wife is chines and lived and Japan for 15 yrs and speaks it fluently... thanks to her I guess

My take on it is i feel it kinda depends on where you live. I live in Vermont and the highway is long and boring ( im sure just the same in other parts of the country). I've had the z1 for about a year now and since then I think I have watched one movie while driving. However what I really like to do is buring dvd's with music videos and running that as i drive. Enjoying the music and passangers can enjoy video's. Not a big deal - once ive seen the video 3-4 times anyways i have no interest in looking at it while i drive. Maybe the pathy is set up differently and the screen sets just so in the periphials better for me than other vehicles mentioned or owned here, i dont know. But i also use the navi on fly a bunch also as we deliver the publication we sell. So i am constantly punching addresses in while in motion and i find that getting a dvd/cd from my case or trying to find the one I want in the visor is more cumbersome and dangerous than hitting a few keys on the navi.

My understanding is the database is looking for the way CD was originally made. All the songs for the entire album on one CD in order with same length of songs and space (or time) in between each track. With this information it knows which album you are trying to play and or record to the hard drive.

How does one explain having myself walk out of a CD shop with a newly purchased, recently released, CD and the Z1 has know idea what it is. Of course it plays the CD, but tags everything with the date, year, and time stamp when it was burned onto the library. During the recording process and the Z1 is essentially playing it off the cd it drew blanks on all info regarding the CD. I felt that to be strange and then hearing that if the cd is in fact the original layout it would recongize. Are there still some lables, recording studio's or CD production'aire's that wouldn't be updated with the "CDDB" Database? Other possibility the CD was a Fake (copied) CD. Which I sppose is entirely possible but it was double sealed and came with a DVD that worked and had the stamp on it, yadda yadda yadda. But I sppose anything is possible.

FYI: The CD was a Spanish CD but recorded in PR (United States), per the lable that is.