installermarc

No, I would not. See my sig.

Um, actually, I do have plenty of knowledge of electronics. I did comm repairs in the Air Force 22 Years ago. So I have a very solid foundation. But if a device has already been developed, and is available, most shop managers (like myself) would rather have the customer spend $30 on a bypass part and let the installer spend 2 minuts programming and connecting it then to waste 30 minutes looking for electronic parts, building the circuit, testing it, and realizing it doesn't work. The next question I will here is "Hey, can I get your help over here?"

Yes, I have tried relays, transistors, everything. The only simple solution is an 18 cent switch wired to the park brake wire and to ground. But that's not automatic. The biggest problem lies in the fact the newer Pioneers need a pulse on the light green wire, then a constant ground. Unless you want to build a timer module, a transistor just will not work.

So again, I say pop for the $30 part, follow the instructions I listed, and enjoy.

Wrong, wrong, and wrong. What you need is a PAC tr-7. Yes, the same PAC that does the steering wheel controls and interfaces. It is a multi-mode timer and output controler. In it it has a mode for bypassing the Alpine TVs, but as a side benifit, it also bypasses all of the newer Pioneer A/V units that need a brake-release-brake cycle. Here's how to do it-

Turn on the program switch on the side.

Power the unit up (red and black wires).

Pulse the brown wire twice. The led wil flash twice and then blink rapidly for a second.

Power down the unit and turn off the program switch.

connect the red wire to accessory and black to ground, the green to the remote turn on (blue/white) and the white to the parking brake (lt green).

Now, every time you turn the radio on, the tr-7 will tell the radio you just went through the parking brake sequence. If you can't find a PAC TR-7, the Peripheral PTR7 is the same thing.

Fear not! The Trackvision part you are looking into is a great peice! And, yes it will connect to the Z-series, just use the A/V input on the back. The installer who puts it in will know what to do. Yes, it will show up on the screen, but no, you won't be able to control it like you do now using the touchscreen. At most, you will have a small remote "eye" in the front for controling it, as well as a remote control. Any good installer will be able to hide this "eye" for you during the install.

I'll call it like I see it, a paperweight! I have been so horribly misguided by Pioneer about the F-series line, that I will no longer carry it in my store. Aside form the "normal" problems everyone else has seen, I can tell you that a whole 2% of the time I typed in an address, it would take me to within 200 feet of the location. Most times, it was off by 3 or more CITY BLOCKS!

Sure, they have their own install problems, which may or may not get resolved. As for the Nav problems, I don't see how a 1 gig download is going to fix (I'm guessing here) 8 gigs of nav software and all of the other issues. And from what I have been hearing, startup time is decreased to only 50 seconds. Agt that rate, I could spend hundreds on gas waiting for the thing to boot up.

Most of those peices look like metra stuff to me. Maybe Pioneer Europe does what crutchfield does and has Metra build it, then Pioneer packages it. I also like that the Pioneer Europe site uses a Mustang for their graphics!

Well, I thought I saw it coming, but my rep just informed me the F series will no longer be produced until certain "bugs" are worked out of the software, mostly to speed it up to a normal speed.

He had no idea if Pioneer was going to send a software patch to customers (like me) that are tired of waiting on the stupid thing or if they will be replaced. My guess is a patch.

Hope this helps everyone out there.

I can tell you this bypass works on the F900, so go get um!

Jason, What about a bypass? Any idea on when you may look into this?

If you must know- here ya go. put PTR7 into program mode. power it up with red and black wires (any 12 volt source will do) and ground the brown wire twice. when the led flashes rapidly then quits, remove power. flip the switch back on the PTR7. connect the red to the red of the pioneer harness. black to ground. green to the remote turn on. white to the parking brake. toggle the switch under the head unit. happy viewing!

Seriously, they don't. If installed properly, and programmed properly, you should NEVER have a problem.

Did you relocate the mute wire? If so, check the connection in the plug. If not, do it.

You are correct about changing power, just the wrong peice. I would move the power of the PEWSIPS to the LANB adaptor, in the same spot you have the acc power to the radio.

Those boxes you are refering to require 120 volt AC power (not too hard to overcome) and a "rabbit ear" input or 75 ohm input (again, not too hard to wire up) and have a cable TV output (there's the problem). Unless you want to carry a good sized power inverter, the DTV converter box and a Cable TV box with a remote extender system, don't do it.

Then there is the reception problem. DTV signals are more fickle about direction changes, so I'm not sure if you would even get a good signal for very long.

It will with the correct dash kit (Metra 99-6510) and the factory navigation dash bezel (around $100 from your dealer). And do yourself a favor and get the dodge radio harness that has the nav connections (also around $100).

Spent a few hours on one, MISFIT?

Any indication the F series is to replace the D series, or just add to it? Looks like to me it will be a replacement?

How about the rear speakers in - if memory serves me correctly - the early nineties Mazda B2200 extra-cabs? Wasn't that the one that you had to remove the pop-out windows? Or am I thinking of the S-10?

No, the Mazda is correct for $500. And the Checy/GMC Full-size van you have to practically pull the dash out to change 4x6s?! Are you kidding?

Don't think so, as the AM/FM tuner is built in the brain, as is most of the Nav circuitry. Only thing that's in the head is the screen, DVD ROM player and the amplifier.

Simple- Buy an iPod composite a/v cable (about $50) and use the audio only. The use the video for what you want. You would need to control the iPod directly (not from the D3) and it would not get a charge, but it would do what you want.

Sounds like your Class 2 adaptor is not recieving the correct turn on signal. The GM factory radios are more forgiving for this error (I see it from time to time). Try this for a few days a see if it fixes anything- turn your key to the "on" position and wait 2-3 seconds, like you were letting the fuel pump prime, then start it. You should notice it turns on every time. If not, have your Class 2 module checked out.

Sounds like you are not using the correct interface module. You need one that is specifically made for the GM Bose system in your truck. One would be like the Peripheral GMAH24B. When wired correctly, this unit (and ones like it) will turn on the amp for you since it is a digital signal.

No worries. I have three passions in life. My family, Mustangs, and car audio. Glad I can share two with you!

Don't bother with a line driver. I can take my factory rear subs into overdrive without it. Kinda limits me as to how loud I can play it, but it'll work for now.

Two items of thought not mentioned yet (other than a NON apple cable to watch my videos on my D3, I only want one cable in my car, not two, thank you) would be any thought to a cable that would plug in to the AV input on the front to a standrd 1/8" stereo plug so I don't have a bunch of RCAs laying on my console; and I would maybe suggest a user variable speed adjusted volume control. We already have the VSS connected (don't we?) so it would be a software thing (I would think anyway).